Smithy

The most important bit "Below is in RPS street max clutch" you can though mate. The Max street and matching fly is a very good combo, used it meself for many years before moving up to the RPS carbon carbon twin kit. smithy

Be worth Bird editing the wording sometime then to avoid incorrect info during future searches and to avoid confusion :winkiss: smithy

Unless RPS has changed their colour schemes and designs, neither of the above is RPS... Smithy

Cheap as chips and will take what ever your throwing at them unless your going mega mega power. Z1 is cheapest place. smithy

First check should be the temp ensor on the top water inlet pipe ( not the one with single wire) crud on this caused by the car sitting around will flood the engine in no time. To save removing the plugs all the time, remove the fuseble link for the fuel in the small relay/link box by the brake servo, crank engine about 3 or 4 times and it should clear it. Smithy

As i said at the time mate, would be about a week when i could post out, will update the post when i have. ta smithy

As your stock ones are in the boot, best check to see what you have got, if any! wouldn't be the first with no valves fitted mate. smithy

Kids: Laura, Eleanor, Arrabella, Richard Middle names Jayne, Tyler, Sonny, Arthur Stepdaughter: Julia Grandkids: Zac Ethan Best one though, smithy :tt2:

That said if unknown history of the cambelt fitted, you'd be nuts not to do it at the same time as everything is removed and the cost of an OEM belt is not major. Fixed pricing on this job i think at zedworld which is probably by now their speciality job. smithy

Connect to the wires coming off the ECU that go to standard sensors mate. Smithy

With manual conversion kits going for around 400-500 quid these days, it ain't even worth the grief stripping it for that. Cars worth 200 -300 quid tops imo smithy

Sorry what i meant was the stock sensor is a narrow band whereas you wanted a wideband version. I fitted one of these and it wires into the ECU wires, handy for driver knoweldge rather than tuning, but gives a good idea. Remember our ECU's are closed loop for 1st 2000 odd revs so light sequence until then means nothing. http://www.lumenition.com/new/main.php/meters/ If you really want to go accurate and can be used whilst mapping too, i'd go for one of these http://www.aemelectronics.com/wideband-air-fuel-systems-15/digital-wideband-air-fuel-gauge-25/ It's affordable, reliable, looks well and buying new sensors or extra sensors to add is simple. I also fitted an EGT one in mine by apexi, but AEM probably do one as well seeing as they do one these babies http://www.aemelectronics.com/x-wifi-35/ hth smithy

Stock are narrowband anyways so not much point. smithy

Personally i think you've gone the harder and more expensive route. The units you've bought don't wire in to the AEM ECU, so your mapper would use their independant readings on the units when mapping. You don't need 2 units to run 2 sensors, assuming the throttle bodies are correctly set and with the balance bar, each side shouldn't see any significant difference. You can run 2 sensors on 1 unit by adding a toggle switch as really once these have been used for mapping the car, you shouldn't see much change in the ratios. If it were me i'd sell what you have, buy a new AEM EUGO controller for about 150 quid, it comes with 1 sensor and harness to plug into the AEM ECU and a really usefull gauge with warning facility. Again by adding a 2nd sensor (if desired) and harness approx 50 quid in total which can be run of a toggle switch for mapping and time to time check to ensure both banks are even. Cheaper, easier and more tidier :thumbup: You can also run through the AEM EGT and intake charge temp sensors quite cheaply, the latter telling you how effecient your intercooler(s) are or arn't. smithy

Full beam and no other lights is usually a blown fuse in kick panel or a blue relay in the engine bay mate. Smithy

You won't do either really mate. The rear moulding i think only actually came with the rear glass not on it's own. The ones Z1 and other US companies sell are from Kuramaz in the US who copied the originals. If you should find them in the UK they would have come from the US anyways no doubt. smithy

Viscous fans when working correctly can be very good, however 20 year old clutch units and driven by a belt and always running often results in poor performance without the driver knowing and overheating can occur. Look bulky and do take up room, seldom used on modern cars. Electric fans look neater, only used when required and can be effective if using a decent one with a high flow rate. Most common used type of fan in modern cars now. If going electric, ensure a good quality brand like spal with a high flow rate and a temp sensitive fitting kit, the sensor goes in either the top rad pipe or the top metal alloy pipe to engine ( your choice) the ideal running temp of a Zed engine is 78-82 degrees, so a cut in point of 84 degrees is okay. For the worrying or just as a safety feature, Fit an override switch in the cabin should the sensor not activate the fan. Ensure you use a decent aftermarket water temp gauge (stock is crap anyway) using a gauge with a warning light set to your temp is best. You'll be taking a tiny bit of drain off the engine, getting rid of something unsigthly and creating a bit more room. Finally do not get rid of the electric sub fan in front of the rad, though it kicks in quite late, it is better than nothing and also acts as a back up telling you another fault is within the engine. hth smithy

Man thats a terrible advert, assume Ebay doesn't have spell checker then either! Smithy

T25's straight on and are only a stage 1 upgrade from stock, so no faffing around with ECU or owt else mate. Smithy

Z1 do New Wiseco pistons and Eagle rods for £650 plus delivery! Smithy

Yep been posted a few times times now, but still an awesome garage! smithy

That's a crazy ass price tbh mate, the far nicer and newer stainless version ones when new were far cheaper, plenty of those on the market at the mo so should come up second hand. getting them repaired shouldn't be an issue either. He's been saying that for a very long time now and seeing as he's copying others, strange why so long! smithy

Don't worry mate loads have done it before, obviously you can rip the old one and yank it off. You can heat the new fuel pipe up in some hot water, slide the hose clips on, push one end of the hose on and with the pliers and screwdriver stop the clip from turning as you tighten it, pull up the hose in the middle with pliers or lever up with summit in oredr to other end of hose on then with screwdriver push over the clip towards it's end and do same again to tighten it. If you can get the old one off, you can get the new one on! Think Jeff needs to do one of his "How to's" on this :yes: Good luck Smithy

If you mean a piece of fuel pipe about 2.5ins long at the front and can be seen under the throttle cover, it is do able albeit with some effort. Long nose pliers and a screw driver will be of great use and certainly save removing the throttle bodies and linkage tbh. smithy

Erm cough cough, second place :whistling: But it's okay, am Zedless and yep Zedworld are decent guys, so why not let the underdog have it :biggrin: smithy