dixonjohn

Thanks Vijay......will do that right now John

Thanks Siraff, I did not take the pan from the dealer yet, he does not have a gasket anyway..........another 6 week wait for that. Funny thing is, the steel pan is only £18, gasket is over £20??? John

I ordered a gasket for my autobox oil pan (n/a import) after 2 months the Nissan dealer called me and said the part was in. I went down, and he handed me a steel oil pan....the idiot ordered the wrong part. But the pan had a drain plug in it, which leads me to believe it was for a UK version. Unless jap replacement pans have a drain plug. He is still trying to check it out. In the meantime, does anyone know if this mod was made to import pans? Thanks John

I agree with SMW1..........Bosch Silver from Costco...........the top of the line one fits fine......just have to shim it up a bit........its not quite as high, loads power and only £39 John

Thanks Bilky.........I was wondering what type (thread & size).....I got loads of the hard drive screws........will do it this weekend (providing it warms up a bit) Thanks John

Thanks Jock, I guess I will persevere, I have already lost one screw which I unscrewed to far out......it ends up falling into the low beam headlight area by way of the slot just below the screw itself..........I guess it cant do any harm, I'm not about to try and remove the headlight to fish it out. John

I have had dificulty in grounding the the low beam (low beam mods so I can use H3 bulb) on the darn little screw, so I was wondering, if I use a long piece of wire, can I use the engine or the body as a ground, or does it have to be grounded within the headlight assembly. John

Bilky, Maybe it does not need anything, but it is a big hole. Maybe some Rockwool or some other flexible product might be worthwhile, John

On Monday, the first cold day this year, and my first cold day with my zed, I noticed that the warm air does not come out of the vents above the radio, only down by your feet and out of the small vent near the pillar. Although the blower was on full speed, the hot air near your feet was not blasting out. My thermostat was changed this summer. Thanks John

After doing the low beam mods so that you can use H3 bulbs, what is the favourite material for filling the void in the dustboot hole where the connector used to go. Thanks John

Thanks Bilky I could not get the new Bosch H3 to work (but later I found out I did blow the fuse) It was starting to get dark, so I replaced the fuse, put the old back in and everything works fine. I will have another go at it over the weekend. Thanks John

I figured it out, I blew a fuse. When I connected up the new H3 bulb I must have got the terminals backwards. The conector has a red and a green wire going to it, Is the green where you connect the new wire to? Thanks John

Just did the low beam mod, but the main beams come on (in a low power type mode) when I put the low beams on. Anyone know what went wrong? Thanks John

Thanks Paul, I did eventually find the torque setting on the exploded drawing on the CD, it turned out to be 5-8 ft/lbs, quite low as you say. I will do it today, if the weather warms up a bit. Thanks John

Ah well, I guess the cat stays. Thanks John

Thanks everyone..........I will give it a go John

Mine is a 1993 import n/a. If I had the cat removed, do any adjustments, etc have to be made. Can I expect better fuel economy with the cat removed. Does a 1993 need a cat to get through the mot. One exhaust dealer told me it would be illegal for him to do it. Thanks John

I have seen 2 different links on this forum for modifying the low beam to take H3 bulbs, one requires soldering the other just a piece of wire with a blade terminal on one end and a spade terminal on the other. Do both work ? The one with the wire with terminals on both ends appeals to me, has anyone tried it ? If it works okay, why would anyone want to use the solder method, a bit risky, and you have to re-do it when you bulb needs changing. Thanks John

thanks Wolf.......... That would make sense if its a cork gasket.........I have not seen it yet, I am picking the gasket up in the morning. John

Thanks Vijay.......... Im still not sure about whether or not to use gasket sealer with the gasket, can anyone help ? John

I have a Jap n/a auto, a few weeks ago I pumped about 4 litres of the fluid out using a vacuum pump with a tube down in the filler tube, putting back 4 litres of dextron 3. Now I am going to the second step (now the gasket has finally arrived at my local Nissan dealer) to remove the pan and drain it again. My question is, do I need any liquid gasket sealer on the gasket, or do I just put in on dry? Does anyone know the torque setting for the pan bolts? Any tips or things I should do while the pan is off? Thanks John

David, That sounds identical to mine, the gearbox mount replacement did nothing to solve. From what I have read it is most definitely the centre prop shaft bearing. A bit more expensive for the part, and a lot more work than the box mount. I think I will leave mine till the spring next year. John

Both the cold region (the lower one) and the hot region (the higher one) are marked with a square hatch pattern. When hot, (driven for at least 5 mins.) the level should be somewhere within the upper pattern area - (towards the uppermost part of the pattern suggested) The fluid level is difficult to see, especially in bright sunlight, due to the golden colour of the oil and the low viscosity. Regards John

Hi Mine only has a single K & N cone induction kit, even though my car is a n/a, is a single cone suitable? Thanks John

I acted too hastily judging the guy in Birmingham that Jeff mentioned who fits windscreans. I finally got an appointment yesterday to have my tailgate windscreen replaced. Dave's buddy did a super job, fitted it in an hour - only£100 all in. Fantastic. John