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dixonjohn

Dormant Member
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    United Kingdom

Everything posted by dixonjohn

  1. In a sketch ( I think it was one copied from Courtesy) on this forum it showed a layout of the fuel and vacumm lines. I am replacing all mine with the blue silicone ones, and also fitting new fuel lines. The sketch shows the vacumm hose going from the PR into the solid piping and exiting out using rubber tubing to somewhere down near the battery. Mine exits out of the hard pipe to some kind of switch on the right side of the engine (passenger side) Anyone else seen this? Is it supposed to be this way ? Thanks John
  2. It does seem that the reliability of the Z is linked to the modifications that are done on it. Leave it stock and it will go for years without any problems. Start screwing around with it and you will soon pay the price. Anyone thinking of buying a Z who reads this forum would be scared to hell about buying one, after reading all the horror stories of blown turbos, etc. It hardly seems worth it in the long run, messing with dump valves, more boost, etc., just for a few extra horse power and acceleration. It seems ridiculous that many people have spent 5 or 6 thousand pounds over a couple of years on repairs. Either they dont know how to take care of a car properly or the car was never designed to do what they are asking. John
  3. I use mine daily going to work, and have done for the last 8 months, never had a problem. The first thing I did when I bought mine was to have Jeff TT change my cambelt and auxillary belts. Since then I have changed the rear axle oil and transmission (autobox) fluid. Using fully synth oil in the engine, changed every 3,000 miles. I have yet to check the spark plugs yet, car has almost 60,000 miles on the clock. I may do that this weekend when I put those lovely blue silicone hoses from Smithy on. Cheers, John
  4. Try Foreign car spares in Birmingham, they supplied the tailgate back window for £60 and they had a guy come down & fit it for me for £30. Call Dave @ 0121327 8214 Mob. 07831 121667 He does not always call you back, but if you persevere, you will get him. John
  5. If mine ever floods I dont know what I would do, when I replaced the fuel lines I tried removing the fuel pump fusible link but the engine still ran for ages, and never stalled. The only thing I can think of is that the Toad alarm and immobiliser over-rides the fusible link, possible for security reasons. If it does, it is a safety hazzard in itself, a fusible link is supposed to melt with heat, so in the case of an engine fire the fuel supply would be cut off. Anyone got any suggestions for starting a flooded engine ? Is there another fuse that I can disconnect ? Thanks John
  6. Matty, Are they jubilee clips or the un-serrated metal band types, if you know what I mean ? Thanks John
  7. I replace all the fuel lines (even the short hard to get at ones) with high pressure fuel line (soon I will replace the 2 long ones with the steel braided stuff) and the petrol smell so far has gone. I friend of mine did say that jubilee clips should not be used on fuel lines, instead use those solid metal clips that wrap around the pipe 100% of the area, giving a better compression. What do you think ? Thanks John
  8. I sent him a couple of e-mails, I faxed him this evening, hopefully he will get it. John
  9. Does anyone know if Mike at MJP is on holiday or something? I have tried contacting him a couple of times but got no reply. John
  10. Andy, Thanks for that info, I have not seen the crimped area around the fpr wet, it seemed a little stained though. Trouble is, I only get the fule smell sometimes, and only when driving. I have not been able to generate the fuel smell while looking under the bonnet. If the fpr turns out to be the culprit, I heard somewhere that they are £65! For that little valve? seems a bit steep. I am off work tommorow, weather permitting I will remove the fpr and replace the short fuel line under it. I suppose while I have the fpr off I should seal the crimped joint with liquid steel. I did replace the vacuum lines. Cheers John
  11. Thanks WillieO, That fuel pipe under the fpr is the one I tightened up last week that got rid of the smell for at least a week. I did not replace the hose on that one (I did not even see it when I was replacing all the fuel lines) From what you say, that little section of fuel pipe can be the culprit to spew out loads petrol. So, this weekend that section of line will be replaced. I guess when I tightened it up it sealed for a while, but I suppose the rubber has become hard over the years and just does not compress very well. Thanks mate. John
  12. Well, I thought I cured the petrol smell, but it came back for a brief time today, while the petrol smell was present, it seamed to hesitate when accelerating, does that seem like one or more cylinders was flooding? would I smell petrol in the car if I was somehow getting too much petrol in the cylinder? or due to electrical problems? would I immediately smell petrol in the car while travelling at about 50mph? Cheers John
  13. I could never exist without air-con. Its miserable in the summer without it, shirt sticking to your back with sweat, etc. Whatever power it takes from the engine, or whatever else, its well worth it. When Im at the traffic lights in the middle of summer, windows up, listening to the radio without outside noise, and I look alongside and see the poor *******s in the car, all windows down, red faced and sweating, Im glad I have air-con, at any price! John
  14. Hi, I replaced most of mine recently, but to be honest, you cant see a lot of them from a picture looking down on the engine bay. I bought 4mm & 6 mm rubber tubing to do the job, but I dont believe I have used any of the 6mm yet. I bought the real heavy duty stuff, but in a couple of spots it was difficult due to 2 side by side hoses, and the heavy duty stuff needs clamps on the end (at least, I thought it did so I put them on.) Cheers John
  15. I dont see how flares could be illegal, boat owners simply buy them from a boat shop, in fact, I think boat owners can buy the flare guns that shoot magnesium flares, (they would burn a hole through you the size of a football) John
  16. Thanks Mark, I will give it another go with sealant, but in the end I think I need a new door rubber strip. I will try sealing the strip that joins the T-Top to the painted bit. Cheers John
  17. A while back I thought I had cured the leaks that wet both front seats. But with all the heavy rain, they are back. Although I have applied silicon grease to the rubber seals around the T-Top, I dont think thats the problem. After inspecting the door seals, I saw a "depression" at the top of the rubber seal where the window contacts it. I have tried building up that area with black silicon, but it still leaks. Has anyone replaced the door seals ? and did that cure any of your leaks ? Is it easy replacing door seals? Thanks John
  18. Andy, You were right, after I tightened up that little hose under the cover, fuel smell has gone..........Thanks Cheers John
  19. Andy, You were right, after I tightened up that little hose under the cover, fuel smell has gone..........Thanks Cheers John
  20. Andy fixed mine about 4 months ago, still working to this day....he's a genius. John
  21. Hmmm......you could be right about that one Andy, that will be the first thing I check before I do anything else. Cheers John
  22. Thanks everyone, Now I have something to work on, this weekend (in daylight) I will be checking the valuable bits of information learned in all the above posts. Cheers John
  23. Paul, I see your point, except I am a little confused about the need for 2 pack paint. Some time ago, I think all cars were painted with enamel or laquer paint, and they had no problem keeping their shine. Whilst I would be hesitant doing a large section of the car with a one part paint, maybe you can away with it on a relatively small area like a spoiler, However, by the time you buy all the equipment and paint, etc., the costs would be approaching that of having a professional do the installation. Cheers John
  24. Thanks Stuart, Is it worth replacing the fuel damper ? (I take its a sealed unit and cannot be fixed ?) I guess there is no point in buying a second hand one, it could be well on its way out too. I wonder how much they are at Nissan (uk) versus Courtesy ? Has anyone else replaced the damper and cured the petrol smell ? Thanks John

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