dixonjohn

How long do parts from Courtesy take to get here by air ? Do they use the postal service or someone like FedEx or UPSair ? Thanks John

Great....off outside to unblock it now, this should be the end of my leaks now. Thanks John

Vijay........I did not think of that.........I have never had it off, does it just pull off? Thanks, John

Thanks Beermonster.......... John

In my continuing effort to make my t-tops watertight, I have got some silicone grease down in the drain hole of the metal gutter in the t-top opening. Its not completely blocked, it does drain, but not fast enough. I am thinking that compressed air will just blast a path in the centre, and leave the silicone grease around the outer circumference. Does anyone know if there is anything that dissolves silicone that I could pour down ? Or anyone have any suggestions? Thanks John

15 mpg does seem poor compared to other cars does'nt it ? I was thinking about cars with much bigger engines (porsche v8, and Jags, etc.) that do more mpg's than the 300zx. John

Damm, I spoke to soon..........big downpoar and its till leaking, looks like its coming from the joint bewteen the t-top rubber and the door frame rubber, back to the drawing board.......oh dear. John

Leonard, I dont believe it! After dumping loads silicone grease and silicone sealant all over the mating surfaces (the rubber seal and the t-top) and none of it cured the leak, I finally found the source of the leak, and fixed it with a glob of silicone grease. The culprit was where the big rubber seal makes the 90 degree turn into the t-top opening. It was spitting a bit with rain otherwise I would have used silicone sealant, I just pulled the seal up a bit at the corner (right by the drain hole in the t-top gutter) and put a big glob of grease up inside with my finger. Leak fixed! Now I can clean off all the crap that I have put all around the t-top in the past that did nothing. If I were putting on a new rubber seal like you will be doing, I would put plenty of black silicone sealant at that corner before seating the rubber seal, then attach the screw (its concealed, and points upwards into the door frame. John

Tackling the drivers door first, I bought a new straight rubber seal from Z centre, the one that fits in the T-top. That made the leak 5 times worse. I then got a second hand (but in better condition than mine) long seal, the one that starts on the body and follows the t-top opening. The leaks did not stop. At first I thought water was coming in through the seal (or lack of) at the top of the glass, but now I think otherwise. The leaks start after it has been raining for some period of time, which seems to rule out the top of the glass. I have checked the gutter drains, they are free. The leaks always show up inside the car at the same spot. If you can imagine yourself in the car, and look up to about 2 o'clock to the upholstered joint (running 90 degrees to the door glass) between the t-top and the body, the drips start about 2 inches from the door edge. I realise that this joint between the top and the body is sort of copnvex radius, and 2 inches happens to be the lowest point, so migration from somewhere else is a possibility. I would be very interested in how your seals work, please let me know, hopefully of your sucess. Where did you get your full set of seals from, and how much were they ? Thanks, good luck. John

Thanks everyone, How is the upper link arm bushing lubricated ? Is it a sealed item, can anything be done to re-lubricate it? Cheers, John

Whats strange is that it was creaking this morning, but this afternoon its gone. It was quite a loud creak too. Could it somehow be related to all the rain we have had? Maybe water working its way out of a bushing ? Does seem likely though I suppose. This weekend I guess I will have to get underneath and see if I can spot anything. Thanks, John

Recently my car developed a bad creaking sound from the front drivers side, seems to dissapear on smooth roads at high speeds. I fitted poly bushes to the tension rods about 6 months ago, if they were starting to go, or tear, would they give a creaking sound ? Do you think it could be shock absorbers? Whats a good way to diagnose this sound ? Thanks John

I have replaced some of my seals, and the leaks got worse, at the moment I have gunked them up with silicone grease, almost a whole tube, I will know if it worked when it rains. Strangely enough, the big seal that starts down by the door and follows the t-top opening was the easiest to fit. The short straight one that fits on the t-top (the top of the window rests against it) never did seat properly, or maybe I screwed it up, be carefull when attaching the 2 hidden screws for this short rubber, if you have to remove and reinstall it several times there is a good chance that the steel washer under the screw head will tear through the thin rubber under it, be very carefull. If you do rip through the rubber, abandon the screws and set the rubber in silicone sealant, its not going anywhere after all. At least, thats my view. Good luck, John

Mine was on the car when I bought it, mines also an N/A, so dont know about the turbo timer. John

Yes, my Toad works flawless. John

Justin, These vibrations, do they occur mainly between 30 and 50 mph ? This wurring sounds like mine, defintely metallic, not wheel bearings, I had all my wheels balanced, still the vibration. If the vibration goes away accelerating up from 50 to lets say 70, its not the wheel bearings, its your prop shaft. John

I think Jeff at Zedworld charges about £280......bearing itself costs a bundle, probably £160 just for the bearing. Check his website, http://www.zedworld.co.uk John

Justin, I have the "typical" Z vibration in the seat at about 30 - 50 mph, especially when cold. I replaced the rear gearbox mount, which did nothing to eliminate the vibrations. I compared the new gearbox mount to the old, and frankly, the old looked as good as the new, no sagging, no deterioration of the rubber. I doubt in your case that its the gearbox mount. Several people on this forum have replaced the gearbox mount and found it did not solve the vibration, which was only cured when the prop shaft centre bearing was replaced. Mine will have to be done soon. Cheers, John

How long do you reckon it takes to change the water pump ? Is it a radiator out job and a timing cover off job on a 1992 n/a autobox? Thanks John

I can highly recommend Jeff @ Zedworld, does good work and a great guy. John

Thanks Simon John

I dont know , only checked the front one. I have temporarily gunked up my t-tops with silicone sealant untill I can get a new rubber seal. John

Hmm, maybe I will ask them for a quote. John

With the high cost of air freight, and taking in account the tax and duty, buying from Courtesy is not what its cracked up to be. John

No, theres no blockage, runs out real quick. John