dixonjohn

Thanks, how long ago did you complete the transaction? John

I'm tempted, they look good, price is reasonable. He has a good track record, one was from a person who bought a 300zx kit too! I e-mailed the person who bought the zed kit to ask him about the fit and quality, no reply yet. John

Justin, Just one centre bearing. If you order from Courtesy in the States remember that you will have to pay about 22% excise and duty, plus about £25 for air freight. (remember the duty % is calculated on the cost of goods including the freight costs) John

Does anyone know what size the brake servo air line is, its one of the few things that I have not used Smithy's nice blue hoses on. Thanks John

Mines grey too! John

Bilky, That oil hose, is that the flexible type ? Cheers, John

Overkill ? I would say so, diff especially is pain to change. Gearbox and diff every 30,000 should be more than ok John

Steve, Yes, box is good, thanks........I did not realise I had bought it from a member. Cheers, John

Hi Jonce, With all the stories about failed Jap auto gearboxes, changing the fluid often is recommended. I changed mine couple of months ago. I was assured that jap autoboxes did not have a drain plug (like a fool I did not check) so the first time I used a vacuum hand pump to suck the fluid out through the dipstick, which is a fair size opening, so it does not take to long. Changing the auto box fluid should be done twice, about a week apart, due to the fact that about 4 litres is left in the torque convertor when you suck out (or drain from the pan), I bought the auto box pan gasket from Mike @ MJP (traders forum) but when I went to take the pan off for the second fluid change a week later I saw my pan had a drain plug!! Well, I was not too unhappy, makes sense to drop the pan anyway and get all the crap out of the pan and filter. I also used Halfords Nutlock on the pan bolts, it is not a permanent locking fluid, but just enough grab to prevent vibration from undoing the bolts. I used the best autobox fluid I could find ( I cant remember the brand) and the highest Dexron number (4 I think) ...you should need about 4 litres, If you have not already bought your cooler and kit already, try http://www.thinkauto.com/ a member on this forum used them and got the entire kit for about £80. Good luck, John

I would say the handbook service intervals are ok for most things, You probably should use a better grade of engine oil than shown in the handbook, and change it a bit more often. In my n/a I started using Castrol Magnatec (semi-synth) but later changed to Mobil 1 (fully synth) 15-50, and I change it every 3500, even though it does not need to be changed that often, as its not a turbo. Mines an auto, but your manual gearbox requires a high quality gearbox oil (90 I think) probably change it every 50,000, or whatever the manual suggests. Fuel filter every 60,000, but as your car is 13 years old I would change that too. Good luck John

What are those 2 spongy like pads inside a Nissan air filter box for? Are they replaceable or permanent? Cheers John

Thanks everyone...........I still dont know if its the clutch though ? Cheers John

It could be a variety of viruses (maybe the Blaster Virus), dont you have an up to date version of Norton Antivirus on your PC.......these days you need it. John

Friend of mine has a Nissan Micra K reg, with clutch problems, crunches in reverse and first. Does this sound like a knackered clutch, or can it be adjusted, or does it sound like gearbox problems ? Thanks John

Yes, I realise that, and grounding other engine and chassis parts can be beneficial. But I was just cautioning people not to get carried away with grounding everything in sight. I thought I saw a photo on this forum of someone's engine bay with what looked like a ground to the radiator. John

I think Mike Feeny @ MJP sells them, I seem to remember they are somewhere in the region of £150 John

Vijay, That article (see last page) specifically tells you not to ground the heat exchanger (radiator core or heater matrix) because it will accelerate the corrossion of your radiator. John

Thanks again Bilky, I will give it a go. John

Thanks Bilky, Where do you get the paint and laquer from ? What brand was it? Cheers John

Tack.........you have the wrong John Dixon, I had to use DixonJohn as a user name, because there is a person who has the username "JohnDixon" on this forum. I think my rims are beyond the stage of salvaging them with laquer, I would be interested to hear what your fried has to say about painting them though. Cheers, John

My standard Nissan rims are starting to get pitted. I dont know if they were coated by the previous owner or not. Is there any kind of spray coating that I can use, to tie me over till I can get some new rims ? John

Thanks Vijay, I did take a look at the lock, I did not take the bolts out completely, I loosened them off a bit, I could not see any elongated holes, I will take another look John

I'm confused.........I took another look at the "loop" on the underside of the tailgate, even if the holes were slotted, that would only give you side-to-side movement, not up and down movement. John

Nigel, I did not see any adjustment on the clip height............I will have to take another look. John

I did a search for tailgate creaking, found a tip that said to glue a rubber pad to the existing rubber stopper on the underside of the tailgate. I could not find any rubber anywhere that I could make pads out of, so I stuck one of those self adhesive velcro squares (the fluffy one) to the rubber stopper, and the creak has dissapered! I also coated the rubber seal with Halfords rubber and nylon lubricant, but I'm sure it was the velcro pad that stopped the creak. John