dixonjohn

If you get a series 2 PTU, does it fit without any special brackets. Is it just a case of bolting it on and using your existing wiring? John

http://www.portway-motorcentre.co.uk/showCar.asp?ID=328 580 bhp :confused: Can this be right? Bit expensive though, £9499 Does anyone know anything about this dealer? John

I doubt if its electronic, seems just like spring action, spring is a bit on the weak side. John

Mine always have been slow to retract, usually need some help from me, or undo them about 10 seconds from bringing the car to a stop.

My car started to develop a petrol odour that was noticeable at the traffic lights, although no visible signs of leaks existied. I changed all the hoses for stainless steel braided ones (also gets rid of the solid piece), dont forget the small ones (usually the cause of the leaks) that are harder to get at. All petrol smell dissapeard once I change all of them. :) John

Will a HKS ALC off a TT fit work on a N/A ? Also, looking at the photos, its a simple looking box of electronics, what does it do that the standard Nissan set cant do? Aside from performance, does your autobox benefit from it at all driving normally? Thanks John

So far so good with the "Isoflex" bitumen spray from B& Q (in the roofing section) Mind you, its a bit messy, but dont worry about it running over your paintwork on the targa, it comes right off. But at least it sets up, unlike the "seek and seal" Take the targa off, and stand it upright, rubber seal side facing upwards. Pull the rubber seal back away from the metal of the targa, and spray isoflex in. Do this for the whole length, wiping off any surplus. Allow it about an hour to set, and check, add more if necessary. Keep it upright for a couple of hours, longer the better (all night if you can) Like I said earlier, this is a solvent based bituminous product, which probably will affect the rubber over the years, but by that time we will all be able to buy 350z's for £5000. I just washed the car, threw buckets of water over the roof, not a drop of water inside. But, the big test will be the next downpour, but I'm optimistic. John

There is a sensor and fan in the panel where the map lights are. There are also sensors in the vents. The sensors react to interior temperatures, and open and close vents as necessary to maintain cabin temperature. John

Thats great Vijay, thanks very much, I should be able to diagnose it now. Cheers John

No, rejuvinating the rubber will not help, I tried it, the problem is the targa seal is not under any compression, its a one sided seal for weatherproofing. John

Thanks Vijay............that should give me everything I need, I must have just got one reading (the 5 volt one) and thought it was the only one. Cheers John

I have rechecked the voltage to the roof fan, it is definately 5 volts, does this seam right. I have tried to trace it in the wiring diagram, I cannot see any evidence of a reduction to 5 volts. Can anyone help me on this ? Should it be 5 or 12 volts? Thanks John

Its worth a try Andy, Im getting tired of getting a wet arse, or sitting on plastic bin bags. John

Contact adhesive is generally not that waterproof is it ? It also needs a little bit of substance to it to close up any irregularities and voids, I think. John

The trim just snaps down :confused: and pushes back up. John

Cant get mine to run, anyone have a voltmeter to check to current to the fan, I checked mine, appeared to be only 5 volts, but that doesnt seem right, I will have to recheck it. John

Should the fan in the roof be on all the time ? Even when you first turn on the ignition without the engine running? What is the voltage of the fan current? Thanks John

Mine is a 1992 n/a import, Im insured with direct line, one car only, 10,000 miles per year, car parked on driveway, use car daily, £346 fully comp. A few months ago when I was considering switching to a turbo, I contacted them for a quote on a turbo import (and I stressed import) ......I asked them to be sure, so they check with their technical department and called me back with the quote, "no change in price" they said it was in the same group. Only a few months ago they told me it would be £40 more on my n/a for a K & N Induction kit............does that make sense, no change in price to go to a TT, but put on an induction kit and it will cost me more. :confused:

Its very unusual for the top to leak around the top of the seal in the "U" around the targa, that area is up out of the water line, well above the gutter. The common place seams to be at the 2 corners where it meets the body molding, and the main cause seams to be the straight rubber piece that is attached to the targa. John

Hmmm..........where abouts is it Jeff ? Its not up front, at least not on mine Ah, maybe only turbo's have it. John

Vijay The seek and seal worked great, cut my leaks down from 1/2 litre to a few drops, even in a heavy downpour for hours. I was trying to get it to zero leaks, which is probably optimistic. I tried putting silicone in to get rid of the occassional drip, and it made it 10 times worse. Makes sense when you think about it, the silicone is too thick. Throughout the several weeks that the seak and seal was doing a fantastic job, I was noticing some traces of seak and seal being washed down the glass, as it never sets. I should have been happy with the ocassional drip, now I have to scrape out the silicone, get it nice and clean, and start all over with seak and seal. The Isoflex (spray bitumen from B&Q) was just an idea for an alternative, but the tests I am running in the kitchen with a strip of rubber and a piece of metal dont look good, poor adhesion to the rubber, and the high solvent content of the Isoflex tends to shrivel the rubber a bit. So, its seak and seal for the moment. John

the kit from zcentre is only for uk cars, it will not work with imports, imports do not have an engine oil cooler. John

Just got a spray can of "Isoflex" from B&Q, I am testing it now on a strip of rubber sheet to metal, it looks like it will do the job, goes on thin enough so it wont cause the rubber seal to stand out. By the time it deteriorates the rubber seal to the targa 350 zeds will be £5000 and I wont have to worry. John

Vijay, not a bad idea, from my roofing days I know that bitumen will eventually deteriorate most synthetic elastomeric membranes (there are special synthetic elastomers that resist oils and bitumen, but it will take a long time to destroy it. Not a bad idea fellas to put silicone in the microwave. John

Does anyone know of a thin, paint-on rubber-to-metal sealant that I can use to seal between the rubber targa seal and the targa itself. Silicone sealant in a tube is just too thick. Thanks John