damien

well i am about 20 minutes from romford :P but no idea for where you are asking me to take it. however my father owns a business and makes alot of deliveries so i could always ask if one of his drivers are heading that way:) although i have to go near cambridge in the next couple of weeks so dont mind taking it to side of cambridge closer to you, or perhaps hand to another zed member who lives near there who is heading further north

cool, thanks guys. i should hopefully have news of replacement liners and undertray later on today, i think i just got to look for drivers side liner now. thanks for the comments and hopefully they are not too hard to fit (i remember liners on my old zed being fiddly)

my car doesnt have them and probably due to lazyness in its past. would i be better off leaving ot of getting them replaced? at the moment i can see the engine gets dirtier quicker and i presume cab noise would be louder but am i running major risks not having them on? obviously i am more careful around puddles and in the rain but i can still see it being an issue is i accidently hit a big puddle but on the plus side would cooling be better?

do you think i could pick all of these up from B&Q and use attachments on the end of a power drill? would a power drill with the discs and buffers be powerful enough?

I would of thought the automatic gearbox ignition lock would prevent it being presses anyway..... Was hoping you are joking :p

At the moment the brake pedal won't go down :)

ok so this is what i found again TOOLS: Most useful has been the Power File, but also the mouse, various size and shapes of wire wheel used in a drill, various files, Dremel, angle grinder and a 3" and a 5" sanding disk for the initial 60 or 80 grit work. apart from the dremel where can i get most of this stuff? B&Q?

been looking at the polishing threads by the andy's etc and am going to try this myself as i am fairly practical. now i can see the tools needed but i dont understand half of them what do the numbers referred to as 80, 100, 120 mean? is it grade or thickness? also if i am going to be polishing alot of metal (including plenum) i can see some bench polishers for around £60 but they are only 200w, will this be enough? also i have a dremel but not got any of the attachments but my worry is that the dremel will keep stopping as they are small and not too powerful... would a power drill with the attachments be ok? do i start of with 80 or 120? i know i have a few questions but if i understand them then i can atleast know what i am looking for in B&Q etc. thanks again, P.S when my new job starts i will be doing shifts and so have alot of time with the car, providing i do a good job and you pay for postage i would gladly polish other members metals for free as i like being practical and busy on my days off.

cool, ill try this tonight, perhaps ill swap the battery over with my runaround so that the runaround charges it :P cheers

so i dont actually need to start the car? that would be a bit more handy as i still havnt put in all the plugs from the other day and the PTU which i lent to someone (do have it sitting indoors) im hoping i can do it without starting the car and preferably without charging battery

starting work on my car on easter weekend however i wish to be able to do a little bit now and try to move it into the garage. problem is it is stuck in Park and the battery is flat. For some reason the interlocker clip on the side of the shifter is missing on mine and so cant release the lock. how else (without starting the car) can i shift the car into neutral so i can push it into my garage? any ideas would be of great help as i cant move it at the moment and the water meter man said its under my car which left me with a letter stating how i refused access (i didnt refuse i just mentioned i cant move it at the meantime) is there anything i can use like a wire hanger to shove down the side of the shifter or will remover the dash section over the gearbox enable me to do it? cheers

just saw this and thought i would share with those who are interested :) http://sky1.sky.com/lost-reduced-the-complete-performance

i was just about to say you could pull the hard drive and connect it as a second on another pc and extract your files. always have atleast two partitions. windows on one drive and important files on the other. that way you can always re-install windows without losing anything. i quite often want to move 30gb games folders (mmo's) from one pc to another (just installed win 7 ultimate) transfering via my network or from usb 2.0 to usb 2.0 takes so long and so i pull the hard drive with the stuff i want and plug it into the other pc, reboot and good to extract and copy. easier when you have SATA 2 connectors as not all motherboards have support for 2 x IDE

heater still had very hot air when needed, tried to view it but only in bright sunlight, torch seems too bright, santa reckoned that the two hoses at top rear of engine were good and suspected it could be something froma bit lower down. it was definitely at the rear middle of engine, i will try the hoses in order of elimination to be safe :) i could also try what gonzo said :) if i get more problems in the next few weeks when i am actually doing it i will post up when i get stuck :) lastly, do you know where i can get a water pipe kit and vacuum kit to change all vac and water pipes?

ok matey, i guess i can try the tub lines as i think that may be the problem. took it to a garage a while ago and mentioned i have a leak when running the car (more apparent when driving it) needless to say bit of money and 3 weeks later he said he didnt find any leaks.. i did say he needs to drive it to see and it turns out he didnt. on the day i picked it up he test drove it to 90 to see if my other boost problem was fixed (said it was) on his return a bit of steam came from the rear of the car engine bay. you could hear a hish every few seconds as some liquid must of been hitting something very hot. like a tap dripping but a hiss following it. needless to say i drove it home carefully and didn't get to test whether my vac leak was fixed. it drips a drop every few seconds onto the floor from behind the engine bay near the gearbox. reckon this is tub lines?

Hi there again, just want to know if it is possible to change alot of vacuum pipes and water pipes when i take out my gearbox for conversion? i wish to be able to replace turbo water feeds, all other water pipes (as much as possible) and heater matrix pipes. would i be able to do alot fo this when the autobox is out, or is it an engine out job? possible to atleast change of my splitting water pipes, what do you reckon? cheers gang :thumbup1:

there was a free guide online for fizing it myself... reckon i should try it or just pay up £35 and get a reconditioned one? http://www.macadamizer.com/bmwfix.html (climate control repair)

It is 318is, 1.9 version which I think is m44, nice drive home but I did notice one fault. The climate control keeps flickering on and off like a dodgy power connector. Apparantly commen so I need to find out how to re solder the old broken solders. eBay was selling reconditioned and resoldered units for £35 including mine in exchange. Apparantly the solder can be reheated again making it simple. Any ideas?

That's a good point! I did forget it is a chain. I'll relook when I pick it up in an hour, on my way there now will update when I get home as iphoning with posting is not good lol :)

seeing as i have a new job which requires me to travel and the zed is being converted from auto to manual in the spring i decided to get a cheap run around for work found this an viewed it last night.. Metalic blue,digital air/con climate control, electric sunroof, electric windows, electric heated door mirrors, central looking, power stearing, anti glare rear view mirror, ABS, airbags, 140k mls with FSH plus all previous mots, 2 keys, Alarm/immobiliser, only 3 previous owners, 12 months MOT, 6 months TAX, the car has no faults no scratches no dents it drives like new and has been well looked after i have dropped the price original price was 1295 so please no time wasters might part exhange or swap pictures don;t do it any justice, it is immaculate through and through and i have never driven a car that is so tight (in a good way) my old 318is was a horrible green and i paid double the amount for something which runs nowhere like this does it was responsive, gears were silky smooth and pedals are nice and tight so you know exactly how the car feels when driving. the BMW folder has reciepts for tons of good stuff. cambelt just changed and the stamp shows an oil change no later than every 12000 miles.. 70% of them were done every 6000 miles. i was very pleased with finding it and my wife was too. WELL CHUFFED!

im not please at all :( looks like ill have to keep track of when were up to the one we left of before xmas

that was damn annoying... they started stargate universe from episode 1 again >.

For the last level where people get problems just force DX 9 mode and all is well

If you turn it to 1680 you will run fine. I'm playing that res and everything was fine until the last level which was due to dx10 being buggy. My system also has 4gb ram. Only think is the 4870 and 4890 don't like crysis on AA x 8 but x2 is fine and no slowdowns.

i looked at the Q6600 as they have a 10x multiplier and overclock godly.. but because of that fact they have increased in price and hard to find. my HD5870 is a good card and you would love it. they have a lower power draw and so keeps heat down better. Stock HD4890's actually run hooter than HD4870's and are damn noisy :( i went with powercolours HD4890 for the second rig and it is very cool and overclocked by a massive 200 mhz out of the box, i havnt overclocked it further yet but with the coolermaster case keeping it as 50 degrees under load compared to stock 80 - 100 degrees i might see if it overclocks more. i personaly think second hand cards are dodgy. i know a certain make carries over the warranty up to 3 times so that used buyers still get warranty. i think this is XFX and has 3 years..... but their cooling is pretty much the same as reference and the types of fans they use are like vacuum cleaners. i reckon you should save up the extra money, wait for price decrease or get a £100 X48 board (DFI LAN PARTY) my second x48 board looks the nuts and has good heatsinks. and buy a second 4870 as they scale well.... only problem is you need a 700W PSU to be safe (can find you one really cheap which has worked very well for me) personally if you run a 1680x1050 a 1gb HD4870 is more than enough with that cpu to run crysis maxed out until you have the dosh for a 5870