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groover

Dormant Member
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    United Kingdom

Everything posted by groover

  1. Yes the pipe on the bottom of the black plastic aiv tank, you could do the other side, but mostly pass side seems to be the culprit
  2. Doesnt make a difference with an import as its not on the mot database and has to be tested as a pre cat, so carry on :thumbup1:
  3. Once youve let the water out you wont get the problem again for quite some time, you could undo the hose and let it drain. Its only worth deleting if you have decat pipes or are doing away with the cats, then you can rip out the whole of the AIV system.
  4. You will find the wire in the loom and wont go directly to the battery but via the fuseable link fuse box
  5. No worries, hope you get it sorted
  6. Would have a trickle charge through the other wires no doubt, but if you were having electrical issues than that would have been the cause
  7. Thats definitely the battery wire, did it shear off during removal or been like it for a while? The empty bolt hole to the right is for the earth, even if a few strands were still attached it would of still charged the battery to a point.
  8. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=59885&d=1306279937 check out A3 on this diagram to see what im trying to explain, might make it clearer for you. It seems that all the white wires end up at the fuse, so you may not have noticed any difference with the loss of one of them.
  9. The wiring diagram shows: white and white/red in the plug, white/red goes to pin 6 on the fuse block and seperate white to battery and to pin 2 on the fuse block and black is earth, so it looks like the white (gone pink) wire is probably attached to the battery as its obviously charging and giving no issue, the other white wire goes to the fuse in the box next to the master cylinder, so it looks like the two white wires which are supposed to be attached to the batt bolt one has come loose.
  10. Will check on the wire colour in a mo but here is a close up of the alternator and batt on the casing, left is 90-93 and right is 94-96
  11. The bolt is the battery connection, the ground is on a bolt at the back on the chassis above the plug and of course you have the plug.
  12. What you doing with the old interior, first dibs just in case :lol:
  13. Happy Birthday :thumbup:
  14. That is Brians edited comment to ifty
  15. Cheers :thumbup: i probably wont go to the extent of the whole washer and overflow bottles but definitely the filler tops that you can see :thumbup1:
  16. Wow bud, and what did you use to clean it again? i cant be arsed to look back through all the threads lol
  17. You have your main feed from the battery and the smaller gauge wire is for/from the ignition switch which attaches to that bolt pictured, you must have another wire hanging somewhere, black/yellow from the relay, may be part of the alternator harness, its been a while lol
  18. I used to go to the casino alot, similar principle and you can take your winnings with you lol
  19. Dan at DTA stopped trading years ago lol H3 for dipped and H1 for main, going HID is the best upgrade you can do on the lights
  20. This one looks ok for the money http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/nissan-300zx-auto-N-A-model-/181361844568?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a3a022158
  21. Took me half an hour to get into the box lol, i would say it was well packaged :thumbup:
  22. Got my car mad oem style custom boot spoiler for the black zed and wing mirrors, so means ive got to start on that one soon and found i have cylinder one down on my N/A, the injector ohmed fine within spec, so going to change the plug and coilpack next to hopefully sort out the lumpy running....again (different cylinder this time lol)
  23. iirc and im sure there are some pics somewhere, but the auto harness incorporates the inhibitor plug, reverse etc, all the gubbings at the front of the drivers wing, which is gone on a manual loom, i used the existing loom when i converted mine from auto and only had to use 2 wires in the bigger grey connector for reverse light, the rest wasnt required and the alternator remained the same.
  24. Mods are more like bodykit, wheels and performance enhancements that were not on the car as stock, other little bits you decide to add are not really mods in their eyes as some cars stock have leather or cloth interior, however at least being honest you are less likely to have an issue should a claim arise. I listed my mods to the insurer as you did and they didnt even add them to my policy :thumbdown: whether they were not considered greatly altered from stock or didnt bother lol

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