groover

:D what he said lol

Have you changed the faces to el dials? if so the face may not be stuck down properly and catching the back of the needle. Having leds fitted will make no difference. Depending on how it is converted to mph, ie: little box convertor or resistor mod you may have either a dry joint on the circuit board or have dodgy convertor or loose connection. Did you drive the car before the convertor was fitted? if so did you notice of it did it then? or is it a recent problem.

Hi Nick Remarks noted and i agree i should have checked through more thoroughly, but as you say it was last notice and i would have either needed to book a ferry or chance my arm trying to get on an available one. For instance i went to the mainland the day before and although sat is usually busy, i didnt have a booking and waited an hour and half to get on one. Im not trying to make an excuse for not coming, believe me i dont need an excuse to have a chance to take the car on the mainland, it would have been a pleasure. I am really sorry to hear about your dad Nick, i have an idea how you must be feeling as my dad went in for a triple bypass a few years back, so my thoughts are with you. I hope to be able to see you guys in the near future and well done to those members who made the effort to get to the photo shoot. My apologies Graham

"to the rest that said they were gonna turn up and didn't let anybody know :slap::nono: you missed out BIG time!!" It would have been nice to have had more notice on the venue and time and maybe in the correct place in the post for those of us who put our names down could see. But hey ho looks like we missed a nice day out.

I looked at the start thread and the last one and didnt see that the venue and time had been added in the middle so missed it. Apologies to the guys who made the effort and saw marco's post too late to make it, by the time i would have got a ferry over and driven up it would have been too late for me to make the shoot....gutted. Hope it goes well. Cheers Graham

There will be an inverter( little box) connected between the rear panel and possibly the side lights for the feed, you may have a loose connection. The door sills will be the same set up, but depending on who or how they wired it will depend on its location. One place to look is behind the passenger side rear panel beside the seat as thats where the relay/module for the interior light is. Its normally tapped into the interior light unit so it illuminates when the door is open. A loose connection, blown inline fuse or not connected are just a couple of the options that might be the reason for not working. Hope you sort it . Cheers Graham

Search the faq section bird, its your friend lol http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=30098

Here is a link that explains 1 way of doing them http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.510

I was going to say, firstly check for loose connections, coil packs, ptu, temp sender and check the maf connector, also check the maf for any water, aspecially with an aftermarket cone filter, with really bad rain, water getting into the maf can cause the symptons you have described along with a number of other things lol.

Just a thought, when you fitted the glow dials, did you make sure they were absolutley flat to the old face, cos the needle may be just catching the dial face. If thats the case it will cause the speedo to give a false signal therefore causing power steering problems

Hi Bud Has the car being doing it all the time or is it a recent thing?

Heres a link on how to do the seats yourself http://www.websure.co.uk/car/300zxretrim.htm

Try this http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.341

You can adjust the rear shoes through the disc to tighten up handbrake, unless the cable is too stretched. Front pads will take about an hour to do both sides, if that. Steering coupling not too sure about as you will need to be more part specific, but i would say at least half that price including labour.

Added to the faq section, thanks guys

Happy birthday matey, have a good day:duffer::duffer:

How did you do the meter test, as you can short the terminals to make the gauge appear full and therefore rise and vice versa. It could be the fuel gauge , but they are generally reliable. It is more likely to be the fuel sender, if its on its way out it will not be sending the reading to the gauge accurately

Paul from swz will probably have few knocking about

jan/feb would be good for me, usually quieter on the work front, so put me down baby:D

28th is good for me, not working for once. The List Nickz32 IanL Silverbullet Moby bobbzx nutter4149 lmao @ nunter4149 :D groover

I agree it looks even better in the flesh, but the only problem with it and Pete knows this is that it is... RED:rofl: which is the slowest colour :D

As legrath pointed out, the bayonet fitting is the same as stop/tail lamp etc, Halfords do them in pairs, i think they are 9led bulbs.

Hi Fas, ive PM'd my number. Cheers Graham

Hi Fas When fitting the indiglow dials youy wont need any bulbs as they are self contained, ie: the whole white section of the dials have all the relevant sections illuminated by the EL card they are printed on. It is worth putting in a 501 led in the right hand side of the dash as you look at it, so it will illuminate the odometer. The easiest way to power the indiglow dials are from the 2 prongs at the bottom of the dash binnacle, the left is the feed as you look at it. Also remove the 4 tiny bulbs in the bottom of the dash or it may ruin the effect. With the heater pod, i found using a single led replacement for the 3 holes available is not sufficient to give a good light spread, so i place 2 in the top segment in the shape of a T to light the auto and demist symbol, 2 inthe arrows section, red for the up/heat and blue for the down/cold. Another 2 for the remaining icons along the bottom of the display. The washer switch needs to be taken apart to get an led in because of the angle and finally i usually replace the amber on/off leds with red 3mm leds to contrast the blue. They are soldered on the board as a direct replacement. Regarding the speedo, it is most likely a dry joint on the speedo board, but it also depends on where you got the delimiter ie: ebay for £20 occasionally you may get a dodgy one, z centre more money but supposedly more reliable. I think the wiring remains the same, i think mine only has 4 wires but will check later. HTH Cheers Graham

If you get rid of the red plastic and red bulb and use a red led replacement, visually it will still look like a reversing light, as the leds are clear visually. Not important, just aesthetically speaking:)