groover

I run and play in a showband, performing all over the country/the world. Have played in some pretty interesting places, Pakistan, greenland, beruit, dubai, venice, marbella, euro disney about 27 times for a company. We do alot of corporate events and weddings, parties, get to play in all the top London hotels, Grosvenor park lane last week, Hilton park lane next. I used to install lighting and pa equipment in holiday parks, clubs etc but just prefer the playing now. The credit crunch has hit us like most business's, but its starting to pick up again.

Tired and old rubber perishes over time, some have used peanut oil, to bring the rubber back to life. You will find the most common area for leaks is where the front corner of the targa meets the rubber, it gets flattened over time, you could raise the rubber channel slightly with a matchstick or similar as a temp fix. New rubbers are very expensive, but are available secondhand, but you may end up with the same problem in the end HTH Cheers Graham

The ecu is what restricts the car, get it rechipped and mapped, this removes the rev limiter etc

no difference mate, the car will be the same apart from the clock will read in mph

Done both Dave

I can do the board black first before i solder them in, what you want matt, satin, or gloss lol

Registered users are not permitted to sell on this forum, if you subscribe you can reap the benfits of the club

You can get to the aiv's from the inner wing http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/FAQ/FAQpages/aivrepair.html

Hi Dave is this the sort of thing you need, The left 15 leds are for sidelight and the right 24 are amber for indictors

Should be 2 in +and - and 2 out + and - By the look of the bubble on the old one, that may have been your problem all along ie: not wired correctly

On the circuit board of the speedo itself and not the contact sheet on the cluster

Sounds like water in the AIV's, nothing to worry about, get rid of them, if you have decatted http://www.aus300zx.com/tech/aiv/aiv.htm

lol Heres an inverter on ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/12V-DC-to-AC-Power-inverter-EL-Lamp-electroluminescent_W0QQitemZ230383101450QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item35a3e7260a&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

It looks like the invertor is burnt out, you can get them from maplins on deffo on ebay, it basically changes the voltage from 12v to 110v Asking for help is not a problem, thats what we are here for, but please dont post for items wanted until you subscribe, as per your previous post. Cheers Graham

Usually a dry joint on the speedo circuit board, run some fresh solder over the existing tracks should sort the problem of an intermittent or lazy speedo. If that has been done and not sured the problem then the next part to look at is the speedo sensor in the gearbox and check the wires to it. The fuel gauge works on a real time signal from the fuel sender in the tank, it doesnt matter what point you put the needle in the gauge , it will revert to the real level in the tank The speedo will be the only clock that you can calibrate iirc. If you have taken the needles off to fit new faces, that can be a problem if not replaced at exactly the same point HTH

PTU generally, did you replace it with a secondhand one? upgrade to a series 2 ptu( nothing to do with the series of the car) just an upgrade. You will not get the overheat problem associated with the series 1.

Lol sorry mate, i asked the question, then deleted it and changed my post before i posted the reply:headvswal so you wouldnt have seen it :smash:

Yes, but there is IIRC a relay that comes with the hid's, could be wrong. Depending on how they are wired, the hid's are linked and wired to one relay, again i could be wrong, just been looking at how they are done on different cars. Thats why i also asked where you got them from, ie ebay, Dta etc...

You could take out a relay and check the contacts for corrosion, make sure all the wiring in line to the ballasts have no loose connections.

Hi Karl, Its a high voltage (23kv) to ignite the xenon gas, then requires a constant 85vac to keep it alive, you may need to use a megameter rather than a normal houshold tester, so you can then test the output safely. If you are in any doubt or worried about testing the ballast, i would go to an auto electrician and let them electrocute themselves instead :rofl: This link should explain what you need to see http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&ct=res&cd=1&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.acuitybrandslighting.com%2FLibrary%2FLL%2Fdocuments%2FSpecSheets%2FTD-110.pdf&ei=2iDKSpepCNu7jAf4-PU3&rct=j&q=testing+hid+ballast+voltage&usg=AFQjCNHGIntBApDvkZLcwwvZIPb25FgfFQ

If they both flicker in sync, i would look further back in the chain, ie relays wiring to the ballasts, but it generally boils down to a ballast problem, Also check the voltage is constant, with a meter, the ballast converts the 12v to high voltage so if there is a drop or interruption, this will cause a problem. check the wires to the bulb holder that you would have used to get the switched feed from, 18year old wiring can be brittle and you may have a corroded or dodgy wire. Make sure that you have no tight wires and that the ballasts are well grounded, ie battery neg terminal. I hope you manage to sort it, Cheers Graham

The oil pressure sender tends to get blocked, very common problem, most put an after market guage and sender in, or get a new one from one of the traders on this forum. Nothing to worry about though

You have mail

dta or mjp on here, they are becoming harder to get hold of though

There is a multiplug and an arial plug so you dont have to feed it back to the head unit. Its held in by a bolt or 2 been a while, at the bottom of the motor and of course its connected to the hole cover the arial goes through, half hour job tops. HTH Cheers Graham