groover

I have a spare climate pod i can post for you to try, if you pm me your addy, i also have a spare series 1 climate ecu, just in case, but its rare for them to go US

Everything dead, do you mean the climate control and the digits dont work, or the lights and switches aswell?

I ordered the 55w 6000k, big difference over the 35w and noone has flashed me yet lol

Hi Paul, no you will be fine. The 2 spade connectors from your HID will plug directly to your existing bulb holder. H3C has 2 prongs, H3 has one prong with a tail for the ground, the H3 hid kit has 2 spade connectors as stated above. Really easy and for now on one side, use some wire to ground the neg to the car body, to keep the HId's on when you use main beam. You can ground from the black wire from the ballast at the bulb holder Then when you get time you can either do it properly at the relay or leave as it is. The only difference is that the HiD will flash on also when you flash your main beam, so as long as you dont flash too much you should be ok with the first mod. Graham

Thanks for the replies, i got as far as taking the plug off, saw 3 pins and stopped there lol I will give it a go tomorrow

I always thought the main beam bulb was a H1, i went to put in my new H1 bulbs and my old bulb has 3 prongs, H4. Does anyone else have a similar problem.

ive used mintex a few times, they are quite cheap, but dont last too long and create a lot of dust. Probably last a bit better on a manual.

Yes, the cable that goes to the block goes to the sensor, the other in the loom goes to the ecu.

You may be able to get a coat hanger down the front, but you might have to give it a wiggle and push the release button on the selector itself. You dont need to start the car to get it out of neutral, you just need the ign lights on and put your foot on the brake to release, so if you have no luck with the coathanger, get something into the battery to get the ign lights on. I have a 12v power supply i use to test bits, ive actually managed to start the car with it when my battery died. HTH

H3 for the dipped beam. H1 for the main beam, but better off with xenon bulbs for the main, HID dont like to be flashed

Blue knobheads are allowed through lol:hammer::death::gun_bandana:

What happens when you try to log into your old account? Make sure your password is entered correctly, ie case sensitive. If we cant find any reason, then the only person who can help with forum issues is turboz

It will do until its replaced lol. Seriously, its a common fault, the gearbox mount as its aged will have sagged, the centre prop bearing if perished will cause the bad vibration at around 40 mph or heavy acceleration. Some are worse than others, but can be replaced. The grumbling noise will still be proportional to the road speed as the prop turns, the wheels turn. You could check the oil level in the diff, if its run dry, it may have caused damage, which is causing the noise.

If its the prop bearing or gearbox mount, then nothing to worry about, ie not dangerous.

That will probably be the centre prop bearing or gearbox mount. As stella said, do you get vibration through the seat or trans tunnel.

4Litres will be spot on, with filter change

http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/FAQ/FAQpages/natott.html http://www.z1motorsports.com/PDFs/NATTconversion.pdf

Probably means nothing to the non smoker, but i flew out to Jersey yesterday for work, you cant buy fags at the airport unless you are flying out of Europe, but you can buy them on the plane, i assume because you are in the air then there is no jurisdiction, but why dont they just let you buy what you want and you take the risk, simple. Although it never is.

Happy Birthday Trish, im sure you are out on the lash, so have a good day Graham

Must be on the cusp of the change over, as ive done what must be an early '95 and it was fine, but i know what you mean

Then you still have bulbs in the back of the dash lol you probably tried the dials on a separate supply havent you so you arent getting the full effect, so should be fine in the car. 95 is fine, its when you get to '96 you have fitment issues as the dial faces are different. HTH

Only if you still have bulbs in the back, otherwise no :thumbdown: You also wont see your odometer either without being backlit

I like them Daz, I think the black looks much nicer than the white ones. you still need bulbs to light the needles and whats covering your odometer

Happy to help Paul.

http://www.z32photoguide.com/ignition.html http://www.z32photoguide.com/ptu.html Cleaning the connectors is more a case of checking for corrosion or lose connections on the terminals within the connectors, http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?cat.121 http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?cat.170