groover

Take the battery off for an hour and reset the Ecu, im not sure if the auto box ecu gets reset in the same way as the engine one , but worth a try. If it goes into gear, then its more solenoid or electrical related.

Rears are no problem and the Drop links have poly bushes, so nice and quiet

Already a bit of rust showing on the droplinks, but i gave em a clean, the next dry day we get i will take them off and grease em all up. I may as well start again :thumbdown:

I told the guys in the garage, who fitted them to grease everything, but having seen them today, there is no sign of any grease:hammer: And to top it all off, i just looked at the pics on the zcentre of the drop links and it looks like the spacer/fat washer is missing on both :gun_bandana: The only reason i didnt do them myself originally, is that it wont stop pissing down with rain

:lol::lol:

Hi Dave, i thought whiteline were supposed to be a good make, there is a noticable difference when turning a corner, deffo more sturdy, but i think i may go back to stock drop links, the back one seems fine at the minute. Maybe the fact the Eibach springs lower it a little is putting pressure on the upper and lower arms. I dunno, i wish id left it alone, there was nothing wrong with it, just thought upgrading would be better :thumbdown:

As above with the drop links, i had these fitted just after my MOT in November and have had nothing but trouble with the front ones ever since. They were ok for a few days, then i thought i would try them out on the twisty roads, then i heard a click and thought, that doesnt sound good. I then started getting a creaking from the right hand side and a clicking every time i went over a bump. So i took it back to the garage who fitted them to check it over. Everything looked fine, i got them to grease everything up to make sure. Anyway it gradually got worse over the last few weeks so today i decided to tackle the problem. The anti roll bar was able to move from side to side, so i tightened the brackets on the subframe up and there were a few turns available until tight. On having a look at he drop links, they seem to have play in them, ie where there would be a rubber bush, its metal and you can hear it moving when you rock it, what a crap design in my opinion. I moved the drop links to the tightest setting, took the car for a run and still clicks and knocks. I had new front shocks and Eibach springs at the same time all this was fitted, so anyone have any suggestions, its doing my head in. Cheers Graham

Thats not a NOS bottle its his flask :tt2:

I agree with Jeff, i dont think consult will find anything, its used mainly for engine diagnostics rather than an electrical fault with fuses and lights. No power steering indicators? Reverse lights most likely a bad earth, but also check the rear light control unit in the drivers side rear cluster panel. All the cables for the rear lights go to the black box, also make sure it is clipped in place on the panel rather than hanging down, it can be prone to water damage like mine was. Also check that the reverse switch plug or wires are not damaged at the gearbox end. Use a multimeter on the bulb holder, put it in reverse and see if you get voltage, Also check the bulbs are ok. Seat belt warning light, if all else fails take the bulb out, its no big deal anyway.

Replied to PM

Great suggestion Paul and well done Jeff for the info

:tt2: Now in the faq section, under general faq's. If anything beneficial is added to the thread info, i will include it in the faq section.

It does, but looks like one wire has been cut to stop the speed chime, but keep the light chime. I thought you were joking when you said this ones familiar, indicating that everyone knows what that is lol

Its also a different size to the original speedo so wont be a straight swap

Number 9 looks like the rear lights control unit

The bargain of the year was Yassa buying a zed for £2, or was that last year lol

Yes looking to do the whole job, but will just do the bypass for now, sick of the smell and the grimy windscreen.

About bloody time, a bit slow coming imo

I found the write up before i saw your answers lol. I needed the write up to get the matrix out, without taking the dash out

Novatech is a good company, good prices and very helpful

Thank you, ive found a write up now, so will do the bypass tomorrow, as long as its not raining. :wacko:

Cheers guys, i had a bit of steam coming into the cabin when i took it out and hour ago, so deffo the matrix. How do i bypass it, take out the matrix and link the pipes? Cheers Graham

Thanks for confirming the worst, looks like i will have to get one. I have also noticed the greasy stuff on the footrest. I was hoping it would hold out a few more months till i changed my engine etc. oh well, looks like it will be brought forward. Cheers Graham

Im sure someone has had this before or is getting it. Its almost like condensation, but only happens when the blower is on and appears quite greasy. Probably something to do with the heater matrix, but need to be sure, before ripping it out. Im also getting a burning water smell in the cab when the heater is on. I did a coolant flush about 2 months ago, but i will do it again tomorrow, just to see if it makes a difference. Can anyone shed any light..............Jeff :bow: Cheers Graham

You can calibrate the standard clocks, there is a write up somewhere, will try and find it. The one lorenzo is going for is digital and non standard