groover

Mongoose is much quieter, from the cat back, available in single or double exit, i replaced my Japseed cat back with it and it makes a big difference in noise levels inside the car and out.

Lots of money, if you can. I dont think Z1 do them.

Unfortunately they are all secondhand Paul, Jeff has UK TT coming in tommorrow, give him a bell to see what they are like. Putting EL fronts on wont cure the problem lol

On Uk clocks the outer cogs of the oddometer should be blue. The Jap clocks have grey cogs. I found this out when i thought i had UK clocks and the oddometer still seemed to be reading in KM's, ive since changed to another set of UK clocks and all is fine. All i can suggest is that, with any of these clocks being up to 20 years old, there is going to be some sort of problem experienced at times, the most common being dry joints on the speedo board itself. The oddometer takes its feed from the speedo board, via a plug on the rear. Its also been known for the oddometers to be reading incorrectly through a build up of grit in the cogs. There have been many threads regarding a speedo problem, some get cured, some dont. Even after resoldering joints, there is no garauntee its going to be trouble free. You may even need to replace a few components on the board, or ultimately you may have a faulty speedo sensor.

Maybe the the metal is bent that the panel sits on, open em out or clse till it fits, they should all be the same, unless the passenger one is different to the drivers side. Check the symbols on the top of the cover. The pass seat only goes back and forth, not up and down like the drivers one.

I think its a good idea Daz, youve been here long enough with a proven track record, all you would need to do then is apply to Znut, if accepted then pay your traders fee, job done.:thumbup:

Lol, i thought i explained it in basic terms :oops:

Found it on the New Zealand oners club site lol

Why oh Why

English lol

The removable rear plastic covers in the boot, to access the rear of the lights, has the date of manufacture stamped inside. Indicated by a row of dots, under the month and year. Lift the carpet in the boot and there is a sewn tag, which also has the DOM, and if still intact, there is a tag at the bottom of the seatbelt.

Take a look under the boot carpet for a tag, the plastic covers over the lights inside the boot area or the bottom of the seatbelt. The plastic rear mouldings have the date of manufacture stamped on them.

Looks like they are coming from the wastegate actuators

Absolutely awsome, im really pleased for Martin, he was so gutted and dis heartened when it initially went wrong, cant wait to see it in the flesh. Hats off to Jimmer and John for making it happen :bow::bow:

Hope youve had a great day so far :happybday:

Hi Steven and welcome to the club, you have quite a few members in Ireland that might no be too far from you, im sure you will get to meet someone lol. Build thread always make good reading. Graham

Bin it

Try taking the bracket off and try it for fit off the engine, Getting the main bolt back in to line up is usually the pig, here is a write up on a fitting problem http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.245

Is it definitely an N/A pump you have as a replacement?

You have to remove the fuse panel also, to access the realys and circuit breaker

Lol wasnt a serious thread, so it doesnt matter about going off topic. If someone gets something out of what is mentioned in the thread then all good.

Theres a couple on there lately, not much work doing to get them back to former glory.

Not mine, but a cheap bargain http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1992-NISSAN-300-ZX-/160529509604?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item25604dece4

Yes the cats are part of the downpipe.

precat attached to down pipe If you can, try and get some pics up of the system, someone previously may have had it bodged or part of. Will be easier to tell you whats going on then.