groover

If you have weak line pressure, it causes problems with the line pressure solenoid and shift solenoids. Having had a think about it, i would do the diagnostics, it could be the auto ecu at fault and not the linkage or lines. Linkage

The linkage is on the top side of the box, not the one in the car. Do an auto box diagnostic and see what it throws up http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnettech/autodiag/autodiag.html For the cooler lines, one on the drivers side and the other on the pass side, let the fluid drain out, there may be quite a bit so get an oil pan to collect it. Rather than trying to flush through from on side to the other, you could disconnect the pipes from the oil cooler in front of the rad, the cooler may be blocked.

Welcome to the club, as you can see we have a few characters on here lol

No Worries, dont forget with the EL dials, you still need bulbs/leds in the back to light the needles and odometer.

Uk clocks will work fine in your N/A, i have the same in mine. Obviously there is no need or connection for the boost gauge, so that will just sit at zero lol. All the UK cars/clocks were/are twin turbo.

You might have a knackered gear selector if its doing the same as your old box. Youve eliminated the box by changing it, unlikely have the same problem as your old, considering you saw this one working. I would check the selector linkage to the box, its possible you have a nut missing on the selector or something, that feels like you are putting it in reverse, but the linkage isnt moving far enough to engage the gear at the box. You may also have a line pressure problem, but if the box was changed i would imagine you had the oil changed although the lines to the cooler may have a blockage.

Or a series 2 PYU for sale here at a very good price http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=146438

Thats good then, get some pics up when you can, im loveing the smoothed look.

Hi Craig, they look really nice and im glad you got them working. The oil pressure needle works on like a canterlever affair, i would check you havent got anything obstructing it, apart from the fact they are never that reliable due to a blocked oil press sensor, the guage should be fine. Was the gauge working before you put in the EL faces? So the convertor is dead then, did nt you just buy it from ebay? can you not return it? The ebay convertors can be a bit hit and miss and reflects in the price. You could buy one from the zcentre, but its about £65. I would personally get some UK clocks for a bit extra and you can still put on your EL faces and the clocks will read in MPH and so will the Odometer and because it will be reading in MPH the 112mph restriction will also be lifted. Failing the above, put up a wanted post for a convertor, someone might have one they used before changing to UK clocks.

Its in this section here http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=85601

This should help So if youve deleted your carbon canister and your egr then block em off

Its all over by three days grace

Welcome to the club. :thumbup:

Welcome to the club, enjoy your new zed eperience

Congratulations mate, i would expect even more sleepless nights lol

MAF is the mass air flow sensor attached to the air filter, however your problem sounds like a dodgy PTU ( power transistor unit) which acts like a distributor, you will find it at the front left of the cambelt cover. Plug in and out

Yes mate they will work. FYI the 2 screws at the bottom of the dash are the light supply to the 4 little bulbs, which act as front wash lighting, you need to remove them anyway or it will spoil the effect. So as you look at the dash, the left one is the live feed, right one ground.

:happybday: Have a great day :happybday:

The clocks will still work in your car, I have an N/A running with UK clocks with no problems at all. It is more likely to be a wire wrong, either the speedo signal feed or the wrong out put on the convertor. Once youve got it apart and changed a wire round, take the car for a spin before putting the whole dash back together. You just need your hazard switch plugged in for the indicators to work, dont worry about anything else, apart from the plugs in the back of the dash lol

It sounds like you are still running in KPH. Did you wire in the convertor? Some convertors have different coloured wires depending on make and one wire connected wrong can make the difference. If you can post up the directions for the installation, then i can compare it and see if its gone wrong somewhere. Here is a link in our faq section, which might help http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=117157

Your dash or lights wont be affected at all. Did you put in UK clocks 180mph or Jap 180kph? What problem are you having with the reading, intermittent, erratic or reading faster than they should be? You may have a problem with your speed sensor in the gearbox, but need to clarify the dash first, maybe get a pic up to see. If you have Jap clocks you can buy a convertor to change it to read in miles, but not one for the problem you describe. Some speedo's suffer from dry joints, which can give an intermittent reading and can affect the power steering.

Best place t get a feed for the EL dials are the 2 screws at the bottom of the dash. The left screw as you look at the front is the live feed. HTH The El dials, should be in MPH and read to 180 MPH,

My toad alarm does this and its to do with the anti hijack feature on the alarm. Baiscally yours doors will automatically lock after about 10 secs once engine is started and doors unlock when the ignition is turned off. You would need to have feature removed from the alarm. There is most likely another way to do it using a relay or wiring it up differently, but as mine is an N/A i havent had to do anything lol

Normal unleaded is fine for a while, occasionally you get detonation/pinking from the lack of octane. Then fill up now and then with high octane. I find with my N/A runs alot better and more efficient with high octane.

The temp sensor is available from MJP trader on the forum, it can cause all sorts of running problems, the ecu will be reading erratic signals and trying to compensate. Rough idling etc.