groover

I run mine with the O2 sensors disconnected, so it runs on a means setting. I dont notice any difference in fuel usage, it always drinks it lol.

:happybday: have a great day :happybday:

cool, cos i didnt when i first did mine and wondered what all the white stuff was inside the dash perspex lol

Did you let the glue go off over night on the rings, before putting the perspex back on?

Really surprised and pleased at the same time :thumbup1:

Lol doesnt matter what color you use, the needles, believe it or not, will be red. Its the dye in the needle. albeit, different shades of red, depending on colour.

It depends how its been wired in, you either take a feed from one of the bulb holders or the 2 screws at the bottom of the dash. Yours may have been wired directly to the light feed on the pod, bypassing the dimmer system

Daz, dont forget you will still need bulbs/leds in the back of the dash to light the needles and odometer, also if you havent already, get rid of the 4 little dome bulbs in the front, bottom of the dash, to stop unwanted light.

It still turns on via the dash lights, so dim the dash lights, you dim the EL dials....simples (cant do the noise lol)

Unless it had an agreed valuation, not that they take much notice lol

£450?

this is what the ad should have read http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-X-20mm-ALLOY-WHEEL-SPACER-KIT-FITS-NISSAN-300-ZX-/250771114076?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3a631f885c

Not usually mate, they are normally advertised as a pair of 20mm spacers, ie as you would expect, but looking again at their ad, it does state total track width of 20mm, however it does also state that 'Please be aware the 10mm and narrower spacers are NOT hubcentric' Are the ones you received hubcentric? might be a way out.

Repost

Yes mate thats what i used.

No not big jobs, to take the speedo out, assuming its the speedo, you need to get the dash binnacle out, which as a first timer would take about 20mins then take the binnacle apart to get to the speedo board. I would first check the fluid levels and bleed the system as in post 2, then take a look at the power steering oil pressure switch, which is attached to the power steering high-pressure tube and detects the power steering load, sending the load signal to the E.C.U. The E.C.U. then sends the idIe-up signal to the A.A.C. valve. Take a look here regarding the speedo: http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.246

Some info here http://www.z1motorsports.com/PDFs/NATTconversion.pdf

If it works, i like :tt2: Whats it going to read?

My front Pirelli's were like that, well not as bad, but the metal chord was showing through on the inner edge. I wondered why i was getting vibration under heavy braking lol. Since had the tracking done with new tyres and all sorted.

I know what it is, but im not telling lol, i didnt know till you mentioned the pod :shifty:

The pair of you are as bad as each other, with the name changing :lol:

Does the speedo stop working or fluctuate when this happens? If it rectifies itself when going over a bump then more likely to be the solenoid on the rack.

To give you an idea, 14056-30P14, but as Dave suggested call Mike Feaney direct as part numbers may have changed, he is the parts guru

Power steering can go heavy for a few reasons: First of all the power steering gets a signal via the speedo, you might have a MPH to KPH convertor that is sending intermittent signals and causing the problem, dry joints on the back of the speedo board itself, Speedo sensor in the gearbox or power steering solenoid. Low fluid.

Try running a ground and live from the battery directly to the seat. Im not sure if the circuit breaker works open or closed circuit. Might be worth trying to get hold of another one from a member or JeffTT. The power goes from the battery to the fuseable link in the engine bay, then onto the circuit breaker. If the fuse is fine then its the breaker. HTH