groover

If its not working, ie no lights at all come on, then it will be fine. I had a similar experience with my rear brake light on the perspex strip. It never worked as far as i knew, but on the day of the MOT it decided to work, but with only 2 bulbs. I either had to take out all the bulbs or replace the bulbs. As long as the main brake lights work, it should be fine.

The window amplifier will be the culprit, as above

It is the H3 HID, there isnt one for a H3C. You dont need the mod anyway for HID's

:happybday: Many happy returns :happybday:

:happybday: All the best :happybday:

:happybday: Have a great day :happybday:

This is you then from your original account, did you forget your password ? http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/member.php?u=6268

All the zeds had AIVs till 96 i think. Im sure Yowser will know.

Have a look at this Marty for all the deletes http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/197490.html

Fpr solenoid on the pass side. You can by pass it and run a vacuum pipe from the plenum to the fuel tree

No idea at a garage, maybe Jeff is the best person to ask for a rough price. Should only take a few hours, but if they dont know the engine, then longer. Thats just the plenum and rocker gaskets, not the full service.

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=42 Google is your friend too lol

Get the gaskets from MJP, the exhaust rockers dont have a gasket, but use a liquid gasket sealant.

Its plasti-dip, plasticote is a brand of aerosol. http://www.plastidip.co.uk/eStore/index.cfm?type=Domestic_Solutions/Plastidip&stage=1&gclid=CPjIsP_6uacCFQEY4Qod5mRP_A

Yep here http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=145929

It will still work with the series 1 ecu, but you wont get the direction or temp readout lol. Its a bit of a pig to get to cos of the angle, the top left one is the hardest, infact when i changed mine i didnt bother putting it back in, I might have even snapped the bracket lug to get it out, cant remember, so long ago.

If its an original colour, there will be a paint code on your vin plate on the slam panel to the left of your rad.

Or you can change them both to manual zed seats, which are a bit lighter, i have a pair in mine at the moment that im changing back to electric ones.

Pour the lifter treatment in the oil filler, really easy. If its not lifters, it could be a variable valve timing spring, they cause a ticking, rattling sound. Mine has been doing this for months, its not going to go bang, just annoying lol. If you are in Stoke (on Trent?) get down to Jeff's near Birmingham, probably need to be monday now, unless youre heading home. Your pod should be waiting for you at home, by the way :wink:

For the light pod you will need 5 x T5 or 4 if you have no cruise control. So thats 4 in the pod and 1 for the light switch. The climate will need 1 T3 for the top hole and 2 T5 for the other 2 holes. Unfortunately you wont get one to fit the wiper switch or hazard switch.

Never tried to be honest, you wont get one of those in the top of the climate pod though, for the auto/screen function, the hole is too small. You need neo wedges like the ones from here http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2pcs-T3-T4-T5-Neo-Wedge-Spark-Blue-Dash-LED-Bulbs-/190508190838?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c5b2c4c76 The other problem with the climate pod, is getting a front facing led to light all the symbols. When i do a conversion i use 2 leds per hole.

Electrical mate, someone may have sprayed the connections thinking it was contact cleaner lol Sometimes they are covered in a lithium type grease to stop corrosion

Works out to roughly just over £3k

Firstly with the battery disconnected or flat for a period of time, the ECU resets, so you may need to drive a few miles for the ECU to relearn all the settings. You might want to check the terminal for corrosion on the temp sensor on the top of the water pipe in front of the cam cover. The temp sensor can cause problems with running, fuelling etc.

:happybday: all the best :happybday: