DJ_Party_Favor

from what iove gathered about the CC in the z32 there were 3 different CC ECUs or ASCD (Auto Speed Control Device). Now the 89 - 92 models had a 16 bit ECU with a 18 pin connector and then the 92+ models had a 32 bit ECU with a 20 pin connector. Ive discovered recently there was the there was a third part number for the ASCD but i dont know if its no different to the 92 + ECU. I currently have a 89 - 92 18 pin ASCD ECU in my zed now (came with the car) and i was lucky enough to get a 92+ 20 pin ECu but i have no way to connect it atm. Im hoping i can one day;).

As much as id like to list what im planning to install on my z, i cant spill the beans yet. I want to keep everything a secret for a while, I have spent big bucks so far and still have heaps to get and do and i hope to start my 99 conversion sometime next year if im lucky. But during that time ill continue to drive her and maintain her as she should be.

Yes ive got the carbon fibre optional 99spec switches and im looking at the 99spec center surround for the stereo next;)

If only it was a year older and you would of got this dash cluster instead

unforeuntately not, the only things the auspec smzs get are the bodykit parts. no engine mods, no suspension mod, no carbon fiber interior additions just a standard 95 model with a stillen bodykit really.

it does too, didnt even see that. it also must be an early 98 as the front bar is the old version.

you lucky duck you. Wouldnt noticed your 98 model doesnt have the upgraded bigger Brake master cyclinder the 99-00s got. Still great looking zed.

I forgot to add i have checked all the connectivity of the horn and all the brackets and the copper connectors using a multimeter and have found power is present in all the connectors.

Tried posting this up on the aus300zx forums but didnt get much help there, which has got me a little worried as i dont have a horn or cruise control right now:(. Problem: Well basically my horn/cruise control has stopped working completely. Ive noticed it will work on and off and now its not working at all. I first started noticing this problem when the cruise control would have a couklpe of seconds delay when activating into cruise mode, which at first i didnt think much of, but now the cruise control wont activate at all and i think its becuase the horn isnt earthing properly and it being all linked. It has been like this for a couple of weeks now and i havent had a problem with the horn like this since i brought the car in September 2006. Yes i know the horns work and the cruise control does work as well. Attempts to Fix: - well i removed the steering wheel front pad part and found a connector was unplugged from the top of the pad so i reconnected it and everything seemd to work fine for a day or so. - After it stopped working again my father suggested the copper connectors might need a clean so we pulled the steering wheel off and then cleaned the connectors but didnt seem to fix the horn and i had to goto work so we decided to tackle it the next night. - On the third attempt my father did a test to see if the earth was working by using a screwdriver to link the earth bracket to the steering wheel metal center hub and the horn started working fine again:rant:. But it has now stopped working again after 3 days. Possibly related Causes: Early last year i had a problem with the horn doing the opposite of my current problem where it would just go off and not turn off while im driving it or parked in my driveway. At first we found a tin metal disk inside the steering wheel i think come off the Z badge on the wheel had broken off and was connectating with the metal. Though a few months alater the horn went off again while i was driving on a freeway, after i had removed this metal disk and i had to remove the horn fuse to stop the horn. Im not sure if this could be linked or the cause of my problem. My car is a 89 Japsec NA Auto. Has anyone come across this problem before?

over here in australia we have ausspec SMZ but come with far less mods then the US SMZ. The auspec SMZ's have all the Aero parts like front bar lip, nose panel, skirts and spoiler and ours are all NA's. But other then that they are as stock as any other 95 NA.

Thank you dave. kool though i think its rare here in australia to find the electric passenger seat. but i differently try and fine one.

Does anyone know if the Jspec zeds got passenger eletriconic seats or is it just a uk thing?? Also do you guys think it would be possible to add to a 89 jspec if i can get my hands on all the parts???

The original fast and furious didnt have any zeds as far as i can remember in the actual movie. But during the credits theres a 2 sec shot of the rear center panel of a z32. There is word of a z32 in the the 4th installment but its unsure whether its a background car or something a character drives. heres a pix. here is the aus300zx forums response to the pix which as u can see we all canned it and thought it was a pretty weak example to put into a movie. Mostly due to the pea shooter exhausts the car has. http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=275350

Guys its the ASCD ECU for the cruise control. the aus300zx tech section use to have photos that would of helped me confirm what the box was but im pretty confident its the ASCD unit. Check the part number, there were two different ASCD ecu units in the zed. The 89-92 16bit ECU which most cruise control zeds have and then the 32bit 92+ ASCD ECU. If u need the number checked ive got both and i hope to install the 92+ ASCD unit one day on my zed.

Yesterday the Victoria members of the Aus300zx forums enjoyed a massive cruise event spanning 500kms. So i thought id share the cruise photos i took from yesterday. The cruise got a record 35+ zeds and a couple of none zed participants which was a site to see for a zedder whos never seen this before. http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?p=706491#post706491 Basically the cruise travellers along a long stretch of road on the west coast of Victoria and follows the curves of the coastline creating alot of twisty roads, which alot of the vic members seem to enjoy driving through and the view from these roads of the coastline is specatluar. Anwyas the meeting point started close to the city of Melbourne, in victoria and from their we droive along a 4 lane hwy to the first stopping point. Having 35+ zeds zipping through traffic on the hwy was amazing and heaps of fun. By now we had reached the first stopping point in Torquy, a little coastal town. We stayed here for a bit and stretchout our legs as we had done about an hours drove from the city. 3rd stop of the day was at Apollo Bay another small coastal town. By this time we had driven all along the Great Ocean Road sry i didnt get any pix as the twisting roads require abit of concentration to navigate through safely. From Apollo bay we headed to what the cruise organises said was a special surprise normally wasnt allowed to the public to entry. Basically it was a site seeing Helicopter Toruist port where we lined all the zeds up and had the copters fly into the backdrop of the zedfest we had created. In addition members were offewr discounted helicopter flights which a few of them took. As this we finally got some lunch at around 3 oclock in the afternoon. And then headed home. Was a massive day and very tiring.

Currently im working on a 89 to 2k spec conversion on my zed and atm im stockpiling parts, OEM only so the car can be fully restored and updated all at once. I must admit id love having a geniune 99spec zed but i have always gone by this thought. I 89 2+2 NA Jspec is my first ever car and first ever zed and theres no way in hell id ever sell it. That being said I woulkd rather convert my zed to a 99spec then have a 99spec. I know the cost would be probably way higher then buying a 99spec in good condition but i love this car and i see my project as one of a kind in Australia and maybe the world for that matter. So far most of the 99spec look alike zeds ive seen are mainly 3/4 99spec conversions with most having the 2k front bar, 2k tailights and some have the 2k spoiler but i want it all. that means front bar Side shirts, HIDS, tailights, interior 2k spoiler, Chrome stockie rims everything i can get my hands on. Even engine parts. This is what will set my zed apart from the rest. But to answer the question no i would keep my current 89 model zed and convert it.

well its been 3 months since i got the blown auto replaced and ive continued to have this auto slip problem since then. Living with the problem knowing im not doing any damage to the box, (as far as i know) i have tried diagnosing the problem manually using the tech guides on the net but i couldnt get the diagnosis program to run (= no flashing lights on the dash). So at the start of this week i promised myself that if i had another slip in the auto while driving i would take it to an auto specialist asap. For the first few days of this week ive had no problems but on thursday while on the way back home after picking my sister up, i began hearing a very bad metal grinding sound coming from what i think (pretty sure) the box with a slight buzzing feeling as well in the car, and it sounded like the same sound i had when my torque converter broke off and destoryed my first box when all this started. The rattling sound occured whenever i gentle put my foot on the accelerator. If i put my foot down the sound would only last a sec before going away. So i rang one auto specialist i was recommended from the asu300zx forums, who pretty much gave me the doom and gloom scenario (box is ****ed) from what i told him, which im not finanically equipped for atm (full rebuild). Now my brother knew of a auto place closer to me and we found out they do free pickup, free road test, free diagnostics, so i decided to give these guys a call and they said they have had alot of experience with Z32. So the car is currently at their auto shop now. Im hoping they will be able to fix my auto problems for good. Im also hoping that i can afford whatever their solution is whether that be a full rebuild or a minor fault.

Ok lets see Distance well ive done about 1500 km with the box so far. The oil from the old box was a yellowy gold colour and it smelt fine when i inspected it before purchasing. I know the mechanic changed the oil as i did check the oil colour and level when i got it back home the day i got it fixed. The colour of the oil atm isnt that brown like i said very very clear. What im going to do is get my dads opinion on the oil colour and smell as he has probably experienced before whereas i havent. Also ive been driving with the O/D off/on for about 140 kms yesterday and i tell you what the auto performed alot better then just driving with O/D on all the time. Im doing this as a test to see if it will happen again with the O/D off when accelerating but this is not how i like to drive so i will still be going to a auto specialist and get them to check it. Do u guys think they will need to drop the box to fix this as thats what im savcing up for incase it needs to be done.

ok before i went to work i tried doing a auto diagnostic as you suggested, but i couldnt get the diagnostic to work. I followed the guide excactly but no flashing lights occured so i dont know why its not working. I tried for about 15 mins and yeh nothing. I even tried when the auto played up while on the way to work but still nothing. Now i decided to see how the car would go when i used the O/D switch turning it off at low speeds and turning it on at high speeds & using 4th gear. I actually found the auto shifted alot better and more consistantly and without the need for me to take my foot off the accerlate to shift up a gear. Also i checked the oil now i found 2 things which im not sure about 1, the oil level was at the top of the metal marker so im guessing plenty of trans oil. 2, The oil colour was either a very clear pink or a very clear light brown colour. couldnt tell it was more a clear colour then anything. I also did the smell test and from what i could tell it smelt burnt but then i dunno what burnt oil is surpose to smell like. I guess im hoping my auto is burning oil thats why i dont want to admit it could be.

well it happens in a couple of ways. 1, Sometimes it happens when after stopping at a set of traffic lights and i go to accelerate when the light goes green. I dont even rev very hard and yeh the car wont change gears. 2, It also happens while i am slowing down for a set of lights but dont come to a complete stop. Ill slow down to around 20 kmph and then as i accelerate i lose gears. This is happening randomly though while im driving. Ive been driving the zed like a granny atm so i havent been pushing the revs at all. I havent checked the oil level yet might have a look when ive got time and report back here. As for switching it off and on again ive noticed once ive done this the car will shift normally immediantly. As i said the problem occurs randomly, I dont think ive had the auto slip after ive switched it off and on again but im not driving long distances atm. Fuel saving bill thing im doing atm. Also just recently ive noticed sometimes after switching the zed on after the car has cooled down i can here a loud buzzing sound coming from the box for like 30 secs and then it disappears. its a pulsing buzz too. dunno if that has anythihg to do with it. Thanx too guys i reall appreicate all the help and advice your giving me on this problem, i know its kinda hard to know exactly know whats wrong with my auto from what im trying to descirbe to u guys. its probably the oil or the clutch as people have said but yeh will find out once ive taken it to an auto specialist soon.

ok sry i forgot to add the standalone oil cooler as the radiator cooler was stuffed cuz of u know what. The reason i thought it might be an electrical problem is doesnt the ecu reset everytime u turn the car off or something like that. Thought mayb the auto computer might be stuffed. i do intended to call my mechanic and ask him more questions ill ask about the oil they used etc ive only been putting it off so i could save some money incase i need to have the shop drop the auto for a check, was hoping it was something simple to fix. So it could also be air pockets in the tramission oil or is there anything else???

Ok at the end of last year (2007) i had my auto replaced by a second hand box due to my torque converter breaking off and destroying my box while doing 100 kmph:(. Anyways i had my the box serived and fitted by my zed mechanic and i trust the work he did was dont correctly and i know second hand boxes arent like brand new auto boxes when it comes to having problems and such. Ok so atm ive had the new box for about 2 months and ive been having a problem while driving at low speeds in first gear where my car would sometimes not want to change up 2 second gear. basically the car will rev but not accelerat at all. Now ive tried to manually shift the auto into 2nd and 1st gear but no change occurs. Ive also tried turning the O/D switch to off and still no difference. Ive also tried switching the POWER and HOLD settings to also have no change. Ive worked out if i pulled over and turn the car off and then on again the car will then shift normally. Now i rang my zed mechanic after the first time this happened and he said the clutch could be slipping or a seal was sticking inside the box. Would this sound right for this problem im having. I havent had it check/fixed yet as i almost went broken trying to replace the old auto with the new one. I am currently saving up so cash now so i dont get into this situation again but i just want to know if it could be an electrical problem causing the auto to no shift correctly.

So no1 can comfirm part numbers for me. I think ill have to go with the hard way and just got with what ive got. I can at least know one of the numbers is in both sets 25412-VP100 but i guess ill find out if its a passenger or drivers side finisher when i get it. I was hoping to get the original black trim style but it seems not avaliable as everyone ive seen who has it has either for the carbon fibre finsih or the wood grain finish.

Ok ive been looking into getting the updated late model 99spec upside window switches and i found a Japanese forums site with a tutorial on how to install them which gave me a list of part numbers. heres the listed numbers (English translated) Driver's seat switch 25401-4H110 Driver's seat Finisshar (Carbon) 25402-VP000 Driver's seat knob pad 80945-VP000 Passenger's seat switch 25411-0M010 Passenger's seat Finisshar(Carbon) 25412-VP100 Heres where i found the numbers; http://www.excite.co.jp/world/english/web/?wb_url=http://www.zcar-owners.net/club/&submit=?E?F?u?y?[?W?|?o&wb_lp=JAEN&wb_dis=2&wb_co=excitejapan Now i tried to get price checks from our Australia/jap parts guy here in our Australia forums but he emailed me back stating the numbers didnt match up and he couldnt promise me id get the correct parts, so i did some checking with old related threads on the aus forums, as we discussed these special little switches mid last year and 'Smithy' posted saying he had brought the switches and posted the part numbers for only the finishers which were this Drivers side- Finisher switch, C/F 25412-VP100 Pass side- Finisher switch, C/F 25402-VP100 Now as u can see the part numbers dont match so im buggered to know which one is the correct part number. I did pm smithy a few months ago to try and get the full list of part numbers but he never emailed me back after he replied he would look for me. Does any one know what the actual part numbers for these are and are there original black trim for the finishers part numbers as well??? And no i cant order from z32-zone as they dont ship to aus yet:( and MJP is a uk supplier and i have no means of paying overseas companies.

Ive been told the US ones are different and i would still need to wire it in.