Jack

stick with the NA. It's 13 stone lighter than a TT so is a little more agile for your city streets. And when you get the chance to try a TT, make your mind up then.

Andy - from memory it came off a UK car. But I paid a crate of Stella for the whole exhaust, it was cluttering up his back garden - so I wasn't asking where it had come from... cheerz Jack

I've fitted a TT exhaust (nissan part) to my NA exhaust - (also Nissan part) and they were/are the same diameter, The TT exhaust differs from an NA exhaust by having a smaller centre balance box and there's a reducing flange added to the TT exhaust to protect the turbo rear seals. It's easy to remove the restrictor using a hammer and screwdriver. You have to do it twice as there's one in each pipe. The smaller centre balance box give a louder sound than the normal NA box. Good luck Jack

...well you got your money out of the AA then - well done. And you are wrong, she can nick 2 Z's from you... I suggest you cut a hole in the floor just above the cats - that should keep you warm...

had to cut mine into 6 pieces with an angle grinder to get it off - the black goo holding it on is really good stuff...

..watch it Matt she'll soon have the red one from you...

I'm surprised how PC the votes are - Cameras are revenue generators - just more indirect taxation.

I think that the steel rod that comes with the Jack has a square end that fits perfectly into the adjuster - made for the job so to speak... And from memory you turn it clockwise to expand the adjuster. Trick is turn it till the wheel locks then loosen it of a fraction. Of course do all of this with the handbrake off and the cables pulled through to the back of the car as much as possible. Good luck Jack

Mark ...thanks for the info. I've never had any bother with mine (on a NA) but used to have loads of bother with the same piece of kit when it was on my Saab 2.3 turbo. But then the turbo was always blowing oil through the breathing system. What about those air filters. When I got my na 6 years ago - all looking brand new and pristine, the air filters were completely black. Are you sure they've been cahnged - and did you replace them with 'good' ones?

been running mine daily like that. It's a 2nd hand altenator and was a basrstool to fit. I dismantled the old altenator to find the bushes worn out - but instead of a £22 fix it transpires that the rectifier in the altenator is shot - so it's £123 for a replacement altenator. When the altenator packed-up there were no warning light - so in the first instance I suspected the battery. Talking to the auto electrician, the flickering red light is a definate sign that the bushes are on their last legs. Here's the maths: new bushes about £25 - you need to supply the altenator - allow a few hours to remove it and replace it - and maybe the rectifier will go as well. 2nd hand altenator - £40 - you still need the hours and you've postage / collection too - and you've no guarantee it's ok. Replacement unit - to all intents etc, it's brand new - £123 and you've still the replacement time. Good luck - spend your £123.

...a little out of my depth here but it might be worth checking the Air intake regulator (I think that's what it's called) - at the back of the engine - it works as a choke - if it's stuck, it'd be like running with the choke out all of the time. Good luck

...the illustrations are of a 2 seater - anybody tried a 2+2?

tracking is out. Had the same on a Saab Turbo. Tracking was adjusted too much to one side. Car ran straight, tyre wear was ok, steering wheel was straight. Problem was tyres catching on the plastic liners. Had to re-set the tracking so that the track rods on both sides were protruding from their screwed housings equally - then remove the stering wheel and re-postition it pointing forward. Strange but true. Good luck Jack

Certainly made that clear - and I suppose I was lucky as the bloke I dealt with knew all about Z's as his brother has one. I insured with Tesco about 5 years ago when I first got the Z and I recon (with hindsight) that if anything had happened, I wouldn't be insured as they'll have had it as a Z31, and not a Z32. Fortunately nothing happened, but when I came to re-insure it (and made it perfectly clear that it was a jap) they declined the business. Thing is - in that first year the brakes didn't work - so I learnt to drive a Z as though it wouldn't stop. Took me 6 months to sort it - along with a few other items... BUT - Zelda's my favourite. If you ever sell her, please give me first refusal. cheerz Jack

£285 fully comp, unlimited mileage - I'm old and it's an NA - Tesco - bit the blokes arm off...

...take my advice - don't buy one. cheerz Jack

...don't buy one.

...don't buy one. I like their exclusivity - we can't have them becoming popular, that won't do - I'd have to sell mine. cheerz Jack

...sorry to hear that it rains in Wrexham. I can't remember the last time I had the tops on - always seems to be dry here in East Anglia. I'll be interested in what you find at the weekend. Keep us all informed. good luck Jack

I have the same annoyance. bearin's ok and mounts good too - so it's gotta be general wear in the prop uv joints. Remedy is to remove the taga panels. 160k on a 1990 NA. Good luck Jack

sellings got to be an issue of educating the masses. They don't know what we know ie the Z's got to be one of the greatest etc etc - especially for the price. People list the standard equipment and then the mods - almost noone elevates the car to supercar status. If it's capable of 175 miles an hour - SAY SO. Forget all the electric windows stuff - every car's got those. Determine what differentiates the Z from it's humble bretheren - and sell that. ...and yor car looks great - love the different coloured nose.

...it's normally top end speed due to the superior drag coefficiency of the Z Long live the Z. In years to come the Z32 will be revered as one of the best etc etc by classic car mags - and you'll be able to say to your children ''I used to own one of those'' and smile - or should I say grin.

...I think you'll find that they are the same piece of kit. They certainly look the same.

...what you've got to watch out for is when it sticks closed / open, it burns the contacts away on the small motor that runs it. From memory there's three (I'm short on terminology here) contacts (bushes?) inside that are very fragile and they can 'weld' themselves to the armature? They can be pulled apart and botched-up. I used to keep old turocharged Saabs going this way - instead of paying the £120 Saab wanted for the part. good luck Jack

...normally via a rubber bung - and carb cleaner will do it. It's a standard item on this age of car - normally made by Bosch. You can get easy access to the sticking parts once it's off the car... difficult bit is removing it - like most things Z it's under loads of other stuff. Good luck ...just thought - you might be able to get access to one of the tubes that feed it and squirt the carb cleaner down that. Might do the trick easier than removing the valve.