Jack

...chop it in and get an NA. They are so cheap at the moment that assuming you get a good price for your TT, the extra cash the swap will generate will go some way to paying for fuel... and you'll still be driving one of the best looking cars on the road - oh and it won't break down as ofter either.

Gentlemen - all great answers - and a definitive one too. I'm off out with my calculator - when it stops raining. thanks again Jack

...to work out what pressure each tyre should be run at, you add together the maximum weight each tyre will take (as printed on the side of the tyres) and divide the vehicle weight (with driver and fuel) by this number. The resulting number is then used to multiply the maximum psi or bar as printed on each tyre so that a factor of the maximum psi is achieved. ...is this correct. Sorry about the maths. thanks in advance to anyone who both knows if this is correct and can be bothered to answer. cheerz Jack

BT rent their network to the companies that are creating the scams. They are therefore implicated in any illegal profit made by the scammers. I think you'll find that if you attack BT for any bill that they (BT) are asking you to pay co a scam, by saying that what they (BT) are doing is fundamentally money laundering and you are going to report them to the police (any reported crime HAS to be investigated) they'll back down - but be persistant.

water injection adds water to the intake air so that it cools the combustion process - normally by about 100 degrees C. It means you can run a higher than recommended boost and primarily it stops the pistons melting. Problem is that if the jets get blocked (often in hard water areas) then the pistons melt. I used to run a Group 4 Sabb 99 Turbo with water injection many years ago - things may have changed by now. The boost did used to come in 2 stages - 1st stage up to the normal max boost then you'd get an extra surge beyond the normal max. If the water injection has stopped working, this would explain his 'boost won't kick-in'' statement. But, beware, if he's been running a higher boost without the cooling water in the cylinders he could have done a lot of damage - normally holed piston(s). Only real way to find out is drive the car - a holed piston can't be hidden. Good luck Jack

...assuming you are not loosing fluid I'd start with the repair kit. With luck it's perished rubbers through lack of use (no pun intended) and not scratched bore (again, no pun intended). I must get a life... good luck Jack

...take the front wheels off and make sure the brakes aren't binding - and are in good condition - clean, greased and free-moving. Then check for un-even tyre wear - any signs and it could be (front wheel) tracking needing adjusting. A decent tyre shop will adjust it to it's maximum limits to counter wear in the (I think) top links. Mines been adjusted as described and stll pulls to the left a little - but after 5 years you get used to it. Other interesting thing to note is that when adjusted the tyre wear is perfect, no scrubbed edges. Good luck ...dont forget, the TT engine is about 12 stone heavier than a NA engine so it'll wear front suspension componentry quicker - and I'd imagine that the shorter wheel-base also adds extra weight (leverage) compared to a 2+2.

traffic lights. In Ipswich there are loads of roundabouts smothered in lights - once upon a time people were allowed to drive around roundabouts. Now we have to stop every 10 metres. I'm a grown man, I can drive round roundabouts without the aid of a traffic light. Drives me bonkers... to say the least. Rant away - it's good for you - and we should do more of it, after all who decides these things and why. Also where do they live...

I feel sorry for you TT guys. Get an NA as a daily car. At least they look good and don't break down or cost a fortune - apart from fuel of course. Mines got just under 160k miles on the clock, never been near a garage in the 5 and a half years I've owned it, use it every day - did 270 miles in it yesterday... needs the rear wheels balanced and I must replace the timing belt - if Mike at MJP ever gets round to selling me one. I'm looking to keeping it on the road for another 5 years by which time it'll be 21 years old and then buying a 350Z, by which time I'll be able to afford one. ...You know it makes sense. Good luck Jack

...the spped converter also lightenes up the steering - same reason, car thinks it's actually travelling slower than it really is. Good luck Jack

dismantle the ignition lock. There's a safety device in there that prevents the key from being removed and also stops it going into gear (I think I'm right here?) ...any way, the safety device (solenoid) packs up - mine went about 4 years ago. It's easy to figure out what needs doing - you simply tie the solenoid open using a length of wire or elastic band. Then you can remove the key in any gear...et etc. good luck Jack

...is it like not having the choke on? Remember the old days when you had to pull the choke out to get the car to run - untill it was warmed up? Could be the same, but it's an airflow device at the back top of the engine. The can get oiled-up and stop performing - or there's no electrical signal too it. Bugger to remove but easy to sort (was out with WD 40) once it's in your hands. Electrics easy to check too as you can see it working once connected. Good luck, and appologies if I'm totally wrong... Jack

Colin ...I tried the repair about 5 years ago - and the gurgling came back so I removed them completely along with all of the tubing and control stuff under the bonnet. Didn't make any difference to performance (although the cars lighter) and no difference to passing an MOT. All you have to do is blank off the pipes that come from the exhaust - do it where they dissapear into the wheel arch plastic covers - so that it looks like you still have them, then a blank on the balance bar on top of the engine, and then hide the connector that controlled them. ...and you'll no longer have the gurgling and you'll have a drawer full of totally useless bits... Good luck Jack 1990 jap NA 2+2 used daily, 156,000 miles, starting the 6th year of ownership...

...you need some long-reach allen keys too... good luck Jack

...got her back from where? Been painting it have you? What did they remove prior to painting? Sounds like there's an electrical connection back to front. I'd start by finding out what they've removed/replaced and checking around these parts. Blown interior lights are common - leave the doors open for a long while and it gets hot and packs-up. I've given up replacing them. Good luck Jack

...it's the most versatile car on the road. It's a people carrier, it's an estate car, its a sports car, it's japanese (reliability), it's not a Porche (I'm an inverted snob), it dosn't have Ferrari running costs, it's rear wheel drive - and you can remove the roof without having to suffer a rag-top. - Oh, and it's over the magic 220 bhp that turns most cars entertaining - oh, and I nearly forgot, only those in the know own one...

...156k on my na, still sweet as a nut, used daily - but no turbos knocking hell out of everything...

black box - my j-spec has one and it plays's up now and again and the lights warning lights up on the dashboard - clean the contacts and assuming the internals are ok, you should have a cured problem.

...carefull of the fan - I've a mate minus the top of 2 fingers co. of a cooling fan - not a Z cooling fan, but still a fan. good luck Jack

...there's a tint specialist up the A12 at Martlesham Heath in Suffolk. If you want I'll get details. cheerz Jack

...you have old age to look forward to. Keep the Z unused in a garage and in 20 years it'll be an exotic classic. Then you'll be able to use it on sunny weekends - along with the motor home... ...and in 20 years time you'll still want a smoke, only it won't be a craving... Do I speak from experience? good luck Jack

Jeff / Bob ...thanks for the sound advice. First altenator is 15 years old and one of the bushes is worn down - not bad for 15 years. 2nd altenator was from Andy so no telling how old/good nick it's in. Going to have the first (original) altenator serviced then I'll put it back in. Battery's new, and you are right about it being too big - I'll check that cable clip - and all of the other items you mention too. ...thanks again. cheerz Jack

...a new one on me... Now and again, the red ''lights'' warning light starts to blink on and off - in time with a faint glow from the alternator warning light. I replaced the altenator a few months ago with a 2nd hand one. I presume this 2nd hand altenator is near the end of it's life as the warning light glows very dimly now and again, not always. But I've never seen the ''lights'' warning light flashing before - and as I've checked all of the lights front and back in some detail - all looks ok - I'm at a loss to know what's causing it. It's speed related, more revs, faster blinking, slow down and the blinking slows. I'm going to replace the altenator soon, but does anyone have experience of the warning lights blinking - should I be looking for a non-altenator related fault? ...any ideas would me much appreciated. thankz Jack

Feb 2000 - Nico talked me into buying a Z - I didn't need much help. Still got it, use it every day, would only swap it for a swb na in yellow. The forum's been completely invaluable - long live the forum, long live the Z. Looking forward to the Z making classic status - I'm already there. cheerz Jack

2 questions - how many miles year do you intend to do in it and have you got loads of money?