Jack

John ...I did the belt on my NA and the water pump looked ok so I didn't change it. 3 months later it gave up on a French motorway. I'm slow, so it took me 2 days to do the timing belt, and 3 months later, 1 day to do it (almost) all again to change the pump. Mind you I've had the car for 4 years and the only time it's been off the road was while waiting for the water pump. I'd replace it and keep the old one as a spare. It's unlikly that you'll ever re-use it, but you never know... good luck Jack

Charles ...the spoiler they have removed is not original spec. I removed mine a few weeks ago and it's a solid rubber device with sheet metal sandwiched within the rubber. It was a real effort to remove it without damaging the paintwork of the tailgate. There are only a few nuts and bolts and a couple of poppers so ideally it should be easy, but (and I'm not sure if this is standard) there were a couple of large patches of black glue holding it onto the tailgate - and these were really difficult to shift. When it was removed, there were a few small indents in the paintwork that needed filling, and some holes that also needed filling. It was easy, and has painted up inc laquer (can't spell?) quite easily. Secret is a grinding paste to remove the orange peel effect (bought from Halfords). I then filled in the space with a decor panel with high level brake light from the Z Centre (thanks Luke) and finished it off with a fresh centre panel from Andy (thanks Andy). ...looks great - and it's reduced the weight (you'd be supriised how heavy the old spoiler was) and reduced the drag co-efficient... ...Jap Na so I need a bit of weight reduction etc... good luck Jack

...Avon and Mitchelin used to make the 360 tyre (metric rim size if I remember rightly) Early Saab 900's Turbos used to run VR360's... good luck Jack

..buy an Na. I would say that as I've used mine as a daily driver for nearly 4 years. There's been usual maintenance, but it's all been DIY. I do about 18k miles a year and it's been off the road for 2 days waiting for a waterpump to arrive - so no complaints. The NA is about 13 or 14 stone lighter than the TT so springs and other stuff is lighter in it's construction so it drives more agile (only my opinion). So as well as more mpg, you get a car that's easier to live with (again my opinion) - tyres are cheaper and you haven't got a couple of turbos knocking hell out of everything... So it's not as quick, but it's still capable of eating most of what's on our roads. Oh- and don't forget the fact that the 300 has got to be one of the most beautiful cars available sub £20k and you can take the roof off - your girlfriend will love it... good luck Jack

...leave the overdrive on. Use hold when you need engine braking on steep decents, Use the power button for fun or when driving in anger. good luck Jack

David ...tell me about the vibration in your NA - My NA is suffering, so I propped up the relatively new gearbox mount the other night but still no improvement. I've had the rear wheels balanced so I doubt that it's that. Never thought to check the wheel bearings. It's only really noticeable from 70 upwards, so it's speed related. ...let me know what you think. many thanks Jack

...give me your address and I'll post it to you. I doubt I'll ever use it again. And if we ever meet you can buy me a pint... cheerz Jack

David ...telll me what bits I should be looking for - mines a red NA. And I could do with some new front speakers to replace the buzzing originals it courently has. And my stereo's crap... cheers Jack

David ...just interested. Mine's ok, but I'm always interested in messing about with it as it's a big toy really - and I'm one of those sad gits who likes scrap yards... ...thanks for the info Jack

Sounds like the auto choke is not working. ...isn't there a AIV? valve at the back of the engine that acts like a choke? Standard to a lot of fuel injected cars. Suggest you find it, remove it and check that it's working. By removing the pipes you can get at the moving valve. It gets stuck as there's oil in the air that it's processing - more so on turbocharged cars. I used to have this problem on a Saab turbo - haven't had it on my NA. A squirt od WD 40 used to solve the problem. If it's been stuck for a long time then there's a possibility that the bushes on the motor have burnt out. It's easy to pull apart but difficult to re-assemble. good luck Jack ...and buy a new battery - you'd be surprised how a failing batter affects the Z

I bought a silly little puller - about £3 from Wilcos - did the trick and removed the wiper arms easy. Since then they come off without the puller - possibly because I greased them before putting them back on...

...where exactly is the scrapyard? cheers Jack

...you could be right, I got the news from a friend who owns a Supra...

...anybody heard of the Skyline top speed drag meet at Woodbridge airstrip on the 21st of March? Woodbridge is near Ipswich in Suffolk, looks like they are organising a drag strip - though I'd pay a visit - as a spectator only needles to say - anyone else interested? Jack

...coming up to 4 years ownership, it's been off the road for 2 days - waiting for a water pump from MJP. I do about 18k miles each year, it's never been serviced by a garage (I do it - diy), and the only stuff that's been done is the usual - oil changes, bulbs, belts, brakes and the prop and gearbox supports. Don't want to tempt providence but it's been a great car and very reliable. ...but it's a Jap NA... cheerz Jack

Craig ...I've been mixing regular and Optimax in my NA for about 4 years. Optimax is much better. It's like driving with a tail wind - and if you take it steady ie keep it below 80, you'll notice a big improvement in the mpg. I'd like to know how much you paid for your car as I'm thinking of changing my 2+2 NA for a short wheelbase NA, and am interested in what such a 'newish' car costs... cheerz Jack

it's code ZC007B on Lukes website - 2 options £35 without brake light or £85 with. I wanted the high level brake light as my old high level brake light got wired as a fog light every time I went for an MOT - and reverted back straight away after... Luke says that the part is genuine Nissan, relatively fragile and needs additional mastic to secure and protect the more fragile ends. Sounds relatively straightforward to fit - mastic and 3 clips... And I agree about the addition of the spoiler - adds to the drag coeficient of the car too and squares off the rear end making it look too big... And you'd be surprised how much it weighs - especially when it's full of water...

I've just removed the standard Nissan rubber spoiler from ny '90 NA - bubbling and cracking in the frost. It was a pig to remove - only 4 clips and 2 small nuts and some adhesive tape - but then there were three blobs of some black glue - really good stuff. Finished up cutting the thing in half down it's whole length then into 6 pieces - all with an angle grinder. Trouble is you can't lever it against the bodywork or you'll damage the tailgate etc. You have to reply on lifting it off. Anyway, there's about 4 holes to fill, some indentations in the paintwork to fill, then paint, and I've just bought a infill panel from Luke at the Z Centre - £85 plus VAT and P+P (£106) with high level brake light. 1st time I've dealt with Luke and he was very helpfull with great advise as to fixing said panel. ...so - why not go this route - after all the car was initially designed without a spoiler (original na) - the spoiler was added to denote a TT - it's a cheaper option thatn a tailgate skin - and possibly looks better? ...good luck Jack

I removed all of the AIV stuff years ago. 1st subsequent MOT I unplugged the pipe and got an inbalance between both cylinders but both still within tolerance. 2nd MOT I left the pipe plugged and got a perfect balance between both cylinders and again both well within tolerances. So don't bother unplugging the pipe. Good luck with the MOT. ...suggest cleaning the throttle bodies, cleaning the electrical connections on the throttle position sensor and unplugging the battery for an hour before the test - if you are worried about emissions...

mine did it too in the cold weather. Once the big fan on the radiator started turning the screetching noise stopped. I put it down to the oil or whatever it is that is in the fan was extra cold and therefore thicker than normal and therefore the fan was more difficult to turn than normal hence a slipping belt hence the noise. Now that the weather is mild again, the noise has gone. good luck Jack

Andy ...just had a look at the pic of your car - you need to paint the wheels - it's dead easy - 3 cans from Halfords - steel for the central areas of the wheels, silver for the rims and edges of the spokes then a generous coating of laquer. Works a treat - I do mine every 2 years. The slightly darker centre of the wheels makes them look much smarter - and would suit the dark colour of your car. And to finish it off, Ford Graphite Grey for the central Z emblem cap...matches the air intakes below the windscreen... cheerz Jack

...there's a small tyre place where I live - just like many in other places. When I need tyres I tell him the size and spec and he phones round and finds a deal. Usually offers a couple of alternatives - last time it was end of line Pilots at less than half price. Also worthy of note is the cost to fit. Small places charge x amount to fit a tyre, immaterial of the price of the tyre. Larger establishments charge a percentage of the tyre price - therefore buy from the small guy - with luck, great tyres at half the price... good luck Jack

I removed mine about 2 years ago - got fed up with the gurgling noise and wanted the weight reduction. As far as I know they are there to cool the cats. Mines an NA, and there's no difference between the emissions readings at an MOT between having the AIV's or not having the AIV's (so they are not for emission tests). Since removal the cats have remained in good condition, so I think you'll be ok to remove them. Its an easy job, just leave the pipes from the cats going into the wings then block them off. Only issue is the possibility that the TT pushes more fuel through than an NA therefore the AIV's might be more necessary. You have a cat temperature warning light on the dash so you'll know if they are overheating. But it's unlikly... good luck Jack

...mines never been on. But it is an NA - so maybe it hasn't got one and maybe it dosn't need one? good luck Jack ..if I were you I'd dismantle the float mechanism as 'normally - in other cars' the sender is part of that unit.

...using the picture as a guide, if you look in front of the red circle you'll see a coil pack. it should have 2 bolts holding it down. Remove the electrical connector, remove the 2 bolts, prise up the metal top so that you can get hold of it, and lift out the coil pack. You'll see its a transformer on top of a spark plug rubber connector. Then, if you look into the space the coil pack has left in the engine, you'll see the spark plug. Keep looking, it's a long way down. You'll then need a spark plug socket of the right size (smaller of the 2 common sizes) attached to a long enough bar to be able to reach down and unscrew the plug. Now you can check the plug for damage. Sometimes the electrodes at the end of the plug can wear - but this is unlikely on your car as it most likely has platignum tipped plugs which last forever. More likly is that there's some rubbish stuck between the surfaces of the electrodes preventing the spark - although I've never seen this other than on an old Fiesta. If the plug looks ok, place it into the coil pack, re connect the coil pack and place it onto the engine in a position where the metal part of the plug makes good contact with the metal of the engine. Get someone to turn over the engine and watch for a spark from the spark plug. If you see one then you've got problems. If you don't then suspect the coil pack. To test this remove a ''good'' coil pack and repeat the test. If you get a spark then the original coil pack could be faulty. ...from here I'm out of my deapth, but it's the natural starting point. good luck Jack