Jack

...my brain's so full of rubbish there's no room left for contamination. Where was it that Lola sang? Was it the Co-co Cabana or something?

Same thing happened to my wife's car radio a while ago. She parked it at the station for the day and left the lights on. Battery flat enough to not be able to start the car when she returned. She phoned me and whilst waiting to be rescued listened to the radio untill that also stopped working. After that it's security code only - and like you nothing to sort it as it's second-hand and came with the car. Had to take it to the Auto electricians - Marine and Auto Electrics off Hadleigh Road - cost a tenner to put right. good luck Jack

Stuart ...how big a piece do you want - I've got various sizes in the garage - got it from a friend who used to work for Lola. Let me know and I'll have a look. cheerz Jack

with the radio converter you'll be ok listening to your local radio station, but if you wany anything like Radio 2, 3, 4 etc forget it. Throw it away and get a new one - and make this decision before the guys who are selling you the car drill a hole in the dash to house the converter switch. good luck Jack

my Jap import uses the high level brake light as a fog light. It's connected up just behind the drivers head - remove the targa, remove the rubber seal, and there's the wires to the lights. Find the high level wire and split it and wire to the added fog switch on the dash. I have this made easy so that at MOT time I connect it and I have a fog light, then I disconnect it after the MOT and I have a high level break light. ...good luck. Jack

...there's all of the vacumn lines and the control solenoids that they are attached to. You finish up with one connector that needs taping up and hiding, and one pipe in the balance tube that needs blocking off. real easy... good luck Jack

...mine did the same last summer. Bearing seal in the waterpump packs up and you loose water at varying rates depending on how hot / type of motoring. Can't remember what the pump cost - I think about £50 from Mike Freeney? - Bar stool to fit. When it's leaking you can see a wet patch on the upperside of the plastic engine guard under the engine. good luck Jack

...might not be your disks. The 4 pistons in the calipers get stuck and stop operating smoothly - ie all 4 together - and cause brake judder at slow breaking speeds. If you remove the pads, clean behind the dust seals, add some hydraulic grease and push the pistons back in a few times, this tends to free them up. Pads back in and try them. No judder and it was the pistons in the calipers - and not the disks. good luck. Jack

Can't help really, but just to let you know that when I replaced the cam belt (bought from Nissan) it didn't come with a sticker on it. That was on the plastic bag it was in. I'd check it out if I was you... good luck Jack

Ray - mines a red NA with TT front and back too. Same squeak as well - silicone spray in yellow can from Harry's £3.95 - great stuff. If you want to try something interesting, clean the outside of the windscreen with it to. You'll never have to use your wipers again - above 30mph...

I know I'm tempting providence, but I've had my NA for 3 years and it's never been in a garage in that time, I do most repair things my self and only 'fault' in that time has been a waterpump failure. ...one of Nissans big mistakes never selling the NA in this country - just imaging how better things would have been, all these years later, having had the NA 300zx as the benchmark for everyday useable sports cars. By now we wouldn't be limited to those little Mazdas etc - we'd have some real cars to choose from...

mine creaks too - from infront of the driver. pulled everything out, put it all back - still no joy. Finally got rid by using silicone spray down behind the dash, in between the screen and the dash. Now that the spray has dried out, it's back...

Nelson ...I was always on your side re Mass... If you look at - I think it's TT.net, there's a spec that comes from the early sales brochures that details both models - and the NA is about 180lbs lighter than the TT. cheers Jack

Ant ...do it. The NA is 13 stone lighter than the TT and needs revs to get it going (as opposed to torque) so behaves in a more agile way (my opinion). Apart from the usual things to check - state of exhause, buckled wheels, worn tyres, electrics working etc, look out for front tie rod bushes split (front wheel wobble at speed), sagging gearbox mount (vibrations under your seat at low speed) and that's about it. If it's got juddering brakes then the caliper pistons will need greasing (not replacement disks). If it straight from Japan then you'll need to do the timing belt pretty soon - and an oil change. All in, not a lot to worry about. Like most cars if you keep on top of any minor problem then it should be reliable and good value for money. Oh and you'll need to change the air filters too. ...hope this helps - I've had mine for 3 years - use it every day, over 15k miles per year, 24 to 32 mpg. Great car... good luck Jack

I've got a filler neck if you want it. It's in good condition. good luck Jack ...and a tank too...

...there's info about saying that if the PCV valves? get blocked it increases the oil pressure and blows oil out of the rear engine/gearbox gasket. Remedy is to clean or replace these valves. A cheap option if you are in the States. They are awkward to get at, but it can be done. As for oil around the filter, try tightening everything up. good luck Jack

...removed all mine over a year ago. No probs and passed MOT ok. Car goes faster cos it weighs less. BUT someone was talking about burnt out cats... good luck Jack

Stuart - it's an easy job. Only hassle is you'll need a hub puller. Any local mechanic could do it. No need to travel. Jack

I've an NA, and replaced the centre bearing. No difference, But the replacement of the auto box rear support fixed the problem. Transpires that the rubber of the mount saggs and causes the gearbox to be lower than it should be. This in turn means the prop is out of line and so vibrates. Symptoms on mine were what seemed like a big flatspot on a tyre when travelling slow, and main vibration at about 60 and above. When things warmed up, the vibrations got less. If I used the car every day, the vibes were just acceptable, but if I left the car unused over a weekend then on Monday morning the vibes were there with a vengance. It's an easy job to do - 10, 12 and 14 mm ring spanners and a jack to hold up the box while you change the mount. The mount was about £54 from MJP. ...good luck Jack

I bought a cambelt from Nissan - came all marked-up which really helped - all you have to do is make all of the marks line up. When I replaced it everything else looked ok, but 3 months later the water pump packed-up (driving through France). And it's pretty much the same job to replace the pump as it is the belt - so it all had to be done again. Therefore I'd recommend belt, pump and thermostat. good luck Jack

...your friends in Holbay will know all about it. It can be done DIY as long as you are keen, adept and have a couple of days to spare. good luck Jack

...why do you want to underseal the car? If it's like mine (jap) then it's already coated with a thick layer of ruberised paint (don't know what it's called) and you might be better off spraying everything with Waxoil. I do this once a year (late summer - easy to scrape off the dried mud) by getting the car up on 4 stands (I know you are not supposed to do this) and thinning the Waxoil with white spirit and spraying it everywhere with an old paint sprayer. Seems to work ok. Keeps the rot away too. Could even do a detter job that undercoating as you don't have to worry about getting it on the brake lines etc... good luck Jack

Willie ...can't help you with a supplier other than MJP 01277374201 JRT Automotive 01494792211 - but thought ir worth a mention, I keep mine rust free by liberal use of hydraulic grease in the dust seals. Seems to work ok. good luck Jack ...move south it's dryer... speaking as a northerner living in East Anglia.

liberal application of silicone spray from Halfords - yellow aerosol. Anthing rubber or where there's a seal ie shocks etc. Works wonders...

I removed all the AIV gear under the wheel arches, left the pipes in place as they were too rusted where they meet the exhaust system, and just plugged the pipe ends. All's been ok ever since, still passed it's MOT with the same readings as the previous year with the AIV's in place...