Jack

...I've a set on my NA and have never liked them - too harsh. When you distmantle the original bushes, you'll notice the amount of workmanship and engineering that goes into them - it's considerable. If Nissan could have used something as simple as poly bushes to do the job, I'm sure they woould have. Anyone got a set or original tie rods in good condition they want to sell?

...NA perspective: No servicing costs in the last 4+ years. All DIY inc timing belt, tie rod bushes, disks, pads, tyres etc. Petrol, M25 A12, 30+mpg, dashing about town mid 20's. Good luck

Piesoup ...I'm in Ipswich (1990 NA - owned for 5 years etc) If I can be of any help, just let me know. I've a reasonable DIY knowledge of the Z, but never ownned a TT. Good luck Jack

...how many miles a year do you want to do in the Z. That's the real question. If it's a lot, you might favour the ''economy'' of an NA. If it's a few, you might favour the ''thirst'' of the TT. And if you are comparing the Z auto box with others, don't. My wife's Saab (2.3 Turbo) auto box is absolutly dreadfull compared with the Z. The Z snaps through the gears in comparison. And problems with auto boxes, I might be tempting providence, but my NA auto is almost 15 years old, 150k on the clock (so it'll have done more) and it's sweet as a nut. I've owned it for 5 years, and do about 15k miles per year in it. good luck Jack

...if I didn't already have one, I'd certainly give you 3.5k for it. Looks great. good luck Jack ps you'll move from the elite of Z ownership into the every-day common or garden Ur a Bus ownership, and you won't be able to remove the roof. Mind you, up in Edinburgh maybe removing the roof is not as much an option as it is here in sunny East Anglia.

Sounds like you need a written report from a respected source that describes the car as un-fit for purpose. Mine had a new front wing, drivers door and rear wing - and sills. So prety hefty damage. Everything else was straight. And there's been no detrimental tyre wear... so it's basically ok. Question is, how did you realise that there was something wrong. The inner wing is behind plastic and not readily accessible...

...to my knowledge (I've a crash damaged Jap import - have had for 4 and a half years) the garage will have all of the paperwork from Japan indicating it's condition. It will definately describe it as crash damage repaired. The SVA test is done in this country and is a kind of strick MOT. If there were ant faults they should have picked them up. Having said that when I bought mine, both front tie rod bushes were shot, disks were warped and the tyres were bald. If I'd have taken it for an MOT it would have failed. The garage gave me 3 months warranty so they got it back. But not for the faults I've just mentioned. I did those so that I was confident that they were right. They got it back for a leaking main seal between engine and box. I'd recommend (forgive me if I've not fully read your thread) that you get a list from your independent source and ask the garage to rectify the faults. If by not roadworthy you mean the whole car is bent (literally) then carry on with your action. My car had had one side (drivers) taken out. It meant that it came with a full respray to a high condition, new windscreen, new shocks, new wheels, new underseal and was generally in great condition. Too good to be true for what was then a 10 year old car. But 4+ years later and it's still great. You have to remember, a car is sold for a reason. When you buy one, you need enough money to find and rectify the reason(s)... Good luck Jack

I've found that they do this if you use too much grease. Water gets trapped in between the slots of the anti squeel? plates. Clean all of the grease from all of the parts ans re-coat with a very fine layer. A VERY fine layer. And while you are at it, press each piston in so that if any of them are jammed, you'll free them. Watch out for an overflow at the brake fluid container. good luck Jack

Rich ...try a Ctech 3000 catalyst injection system. It puts the platinum into the fuel air mix and they say can increase bhp by about 10%. It'll cost you about £90 and it lasts for about 30k miles. I've one fitted to my NA. It's not a simple job, in fact I'm going to change the way it's fitted (the vacumn ports arn't close enough to the throttle housings). It's like using Optimax all of the time... They sell it on more miles to the gallon. It's an increase in power which if you don't use the increase in power equates to better mpg... ...some people think it's witchcraft... Only you can decide. But lets say their claims are not fully founded, lets say 5% increase, it's still a bargain... Think the web address is ctech3000.co.uk Good luck - and when you want to sell your car, give me first refusal. And have you seen the metalic green SWB on Autotrader - sounds like a very nice car... Jack

...go for it. They look great...

Mike ...not surprised the tailgate came away with the spoiler. Mine took all day to remove. I had to chop it into 6 pieces with an angle grinder. There were only 4 bolts holding it in place AND some black goo - that was the problem. The cars a 1990 Jap - so the tailgate metal under the spoiler was ok... good luck Jack

...if it's got rot thats come from the rear spoiler ie outside, I'd be wary about fixing it. Once the old spoiler is removed the resulting lack of weight makes the rear hatch open real quick - watch your chin. And whats more important is that it takes a lot more to close it. Now I have to slam mine down harder than when the wet spoiler was slamming it down for me. When I removed the spoiler I fibreglassed over the inside of the 4? holes that it left then filled them etc before painting. And now, 6 months later they are giving way. I'm sure this is because of the extra force needed to slam the tailgage shut. So if you've large areas of repair, you might be looking at long-term trouble. In a scrapyard recently, the owner asked me what I thought the tailgate off a 93 grey TT (with intact spoiler) was worth - he was going to ask £150 for it... Might be your best way forward. good luck Jack

...Mikes car is not spoiler-less. It's got a skin over the original spoiler-less metal to hide the holes etc that removing an original spoiler creates. ...keep looking. good luck Jack

...doors - that's the problem. These are from a UK TT so fasten to the framework after the doors. I got them with a full interior (leather etc) but as mine is a Jap 2+2 I had to doctor the UK TT door cards to accept the existing Jap (door) belts as the car didn't have the full range of fittings to accept the UK belts. Shame really as the belts are in great condition. Good luck - sounds like you need a visit to a decent scrap yard... cheerz Jack

Steve ...I've a full set from a 93 UK spec TT - if you need any. cheerz Jack

...no worries - I surrender to your superior knowledge... and you are right about their terminal velocity, but some were definately at their rev limits... cheerz Jack

''Please excuse low-tech use of bhp and torque'' - and I thought I'd got away with it... So thats why those guys at Santa Pod the other weekend were changing into 4th whilst crossing the finish line...

...thats the way to do it... You put it so eloquently. Well done. Keep up the good work...

...For normally aspirated Zs...peak power (bhp) is higher up the rev range - say 5500 rpm. So if your car is a TT, peak power (for you guys thats torque) is most likly at about 3500 rpm so then who needs the power button as you don't need to rev it as much. If it's NA then you do need to rev it and the power button certainly does make a difference... Please excuse low-tech use of bhp and torque.

...isn't the prancing horse the symbol for Knightsbridge? Something to do with the 2 Knights that fought on the original bridge (hence the name) - and the household cavalry barracks being there. There's a great big building wrap gone up in Knightsbridge last week featuring 2 horses in similar prancing pose... 2p's worth...

Chris ...how many miles on the Pirreli's? I'm in need of a set for my NA. thanks Jack

...get away... 6... well, that explains a lot... Went to college in Preston the year that they turned it from Harris College to Preston Poly - so there's a clue to my age, and a blight on my counting ability?

na plugs are different to tt plugs. Mine are platinum tiped NGK and have been in the car (1990 na) since it was imported over 4 years ago. Priced up platinum tipped from a motor factor recently and they were about £14 for 4 - so not super expensive as first thought. Every year I take the plugs out, admire them and then put them back in. I tried Iridium ones once but they didn't make any difference, and after a while looked worse than the platinum ones - so they went back in...

...if iit's still there on the Ctech website, download the White Paper from Dr Trevor Griffiths from Leeds Uni re the use of Platinum as a fuel additive - when used in aerosol form. It makes really interesting reading - if you are a nut like me... It convinced me to buy...

...scrap dealer near Ipswich has 2 300TTs in - Called Parkwood Motors - sorry I don't have a tel number. Replacement seals for brake caliopers are easy to fit. good luck Jack