Jack

...correction - the newer the car, the rarer it is...

...of interest, when Nissan stopped importing tht zTT into the UK in I think '94, the asking price was about £34ish K. I imagine the 93 car was a similar price too. You also need to bear in mind that in 89 Nissan sold over 50k of the Z32 world wide and in 98 sold less than 800 - and by the time they stopped making them they were down to double numbers - so the older the car the rarer it is. There has to be a limit to what will be imported into the UK as car lovers in Japan will undoubtedly be holding onto them... as part of the Z heritage. Good luck Jack

3.1 litres for manual gearbox and 2.9 lires for diff. I use Millers - and I still have the crunchy 1st and 2nd gear. Good luck Jack

nice one - the stuff of legends. thanks.

...it should have metal clips attached to the back of the strip and these clips fit into the rectangular holes. Double sided carpet tape works better. Good luck Jack

I think that you've got to be looking to the back wheels for the solution - rear steering geometry - or whatever holds everything in place. Could be rear curb damage? If you've no luck finding the cause DIY, I'd recommend a crash repair specialist with a 4 wheel alignment jig - they'll soon tell you whats wrong. Good luck Jack

sounds like whatever caused the belt to break in the first place is still evident - and cos the belt is new, instead of snapping, it's just dislodging it... Good luck Jack

if you do change them, assuming your car is a manual and the disks arn't warped or too worn, can I buy the disks from you?

Prop bearing will come in about 40mph up to about 80 then smooth out. Gearbox mount will be most noticeable when cars been standing and it's like having a flatspot on a tyre at low speed - goes as the speed increases. Re steering pull - if your tyres are 'over-square' ie wide for their height, then they'll chase the camber in the road - this puts un natural strain on the tie rod bushes and reduces their life - as does big break mods. Poly bushes are a low tech solution - and I don't know of any bushes that can be used from Nissan - unless of course that you can use Z31 replacement bushes - worth checking out... As for 4 wheel alignment - great idea - had mine done via a crash repair specialist (£64) after I removed lowering springs and replaced them with the 'proper' springs - drives lovely. Good luck Jack

Andy - thanks for that - another job over Christmas. cheerz Jack

Paul - that's it although the bush is seen in pic 5. On Z31's you could just buy the bush but on Z32's you have to buy the whole arm - last one I bought cost £108 from Nissan. It's a complex bit of kit as its a rubber bung with a silicone filling and a star shaped piece of metal inside the silicone - it does a lot of work. If the rubber cracks then the silicone starts to leak and the bush stops holding the front wheel in place. ...you most likly know this - I do appologise if I'm lecturing. But if you don't, once the silicone's leaking (check for cracks in the walls of the bush) then you'll get strange steering pulls (chasing the camber) and after a while, juddering when braking and under acceleration - and when it's really bad a general vibration at most speeds - quite fun. You can replace these bushes by poly bushes but these give a harsher feel to the steering and they say they are too tight so rip the tie rod from the steering arm (the 2 bolts). If you do use poly bushes, removal of the existing bush is quite a task - big hammer, vice and a lot of scraping... Good luck Jack ...check the sway bar bushes too - these wear but can be removed and turned through 180 degrees to extend their life.

...can I use the same oil that goes in the gearbox for the diff. I've just changed the gearbox oil and bought 4 litres (£10 a litre) as it (officially) takes 3.1 litres - and it does - so I've got £9's worth of Millers oil remaining and if it can be used in the diff I'll be pleased - otherwise it sits on the shelf forever... Cheerz Jack

Paul - sorry to hear your cars got problems. For what it's worth, it sounds like you need to replace the shock/coilover and whilst doing that (it's an easyish job) check that the rubber and silicone filled tie rod bush is ok, that the 2 nuts that hold it in place on the steering? arm are tight, and not torn from their mountings. Also, check everything for tightness including all of the brake components. My money's on the tie rod bushing. Good luck Jack

Used one of those on my sons golf a few years ago - it worked fine - engine was shot...

I seen to recall that it's not difficult - remove the main bit that has the vents and clock - 4 screws and then about4 more to lift the gear-change console so that you can get at the bits that need cleaning. Good luck Jack

Wai I think that it is supposed to light up - but I think that you'll find that it's just dirt on the underside and dirt on the bulb. From memory you can clean both to good effect. cheerz Jack

...lift the kicking strip on the drivers sill (3 or 4 screws) and pull the carpet near the back of the front seat - there's usually a big label in there that's got a date on it...

Gentlemen - thanks for the info - I'll get the credit card out. cheerz Jack

I want to use Redline MT90 as replacement oil in my 97 NA manual gearbox. They tell me it's good stuff. I believe it's sold in quarts, so, 2 questions, how many quarts do I need, and where's the cheapest place to buy it? ...third question, can I use it as replacement oil in the diff as well, and if so, 4th questions, how much does it take. Many thanks for any answers. cheerz Jack

...granny driving. It's my age.

I had the spoiler light wired as the fog light, and only connected it up at the time of the MOT - other wise I had it connected as the high-level brake light. Everyone seemed OK about it - passed MOT's all of the time. And it didn't mess up the back of the car. Simple to wire up and simple to change from fog to brake. Mind you if the plod ever stopped me and the rear fog wasn't working - I could be in trouble - but they never did. Since sold the car and my current JDM NA Z has one set flush in the rear bumper - quite a neat solution. cheerz Jack

£30 of fuel normally lasts for 200 miles driving to work and back - 14 miles each way. It's slightly better in the manual car I have now compared to the auto I used to have - both NA's...

...wire brush off any surface rust and then treat all surfaces to a good coat of waxoil - preferably sprayed on. You might find that this offers as much protection against future rust as any paint will do. If you paint it, you'll have to neutralise the rust with a suitable rust inhibitor. Problem with some of these is that they form a layer, and then you have to paint over them. And with any paint, you run the risk of water getting between the paint and the metal, and the metal rusting some more. If I were you, I'd waxoil it - and I'd do it again in the middle of the summer - so that the hot weather keeps the waxoil liquid longer so that it can soak into the joints better. Anyway, as a 90 car, how long are you intending keeping it? If you get a couple of years out of a tin of waxoil, it's got to be the easiest way forward... Good luck Jack

Ian - get it tested before you put it back on. Otherwise when you have to remove it again because it still dosn't work - you'll be elevated from the grease monkey status to club expert. Good luck Jack

Ian - disconnected all of the electrical connections to it as well? These are tight and could be holding it in place - and you've removed the long pivot bolt too? From memory it falls onto you when everythig's disconnected. And just to cheer you up, re-fitting is more difficult as gravity's not on your side. Good luck Jack