Jack

Dave - are all of your electrical connections - especially the two right at the front - clean? There's some pink greas stuff used to stop battery terminals corroding that's really good - clean a terminal then a fine smudge of the grease will make a good connection and keep it clean. Highly recommend it. Also it might be worth cleaning your throttle butterflys - if that's what they are called. ...just a thought - I had a fuel pump go in a similar manner. Ran when cold but the knackered bearing in the fuel pump started to sieze when it warmed up. The result was that the fuel pressure wasn't high enough and the fuel injectors shut down. Tell-tale was alloy grinds in the fuel filter - pointed at the failed pump. Good luck Jack

...mine was about 5 different shades of red... Had to vary the paint depending upon which part of the car I was painting - and do whole panels...

...sounds like you need to get underneath it and check the electrical connections to the box. Alternatively is there a major fuse or solenoid switch that controls/protects the box? ...worth checking. Good luck Jack

...engine only needs 2 things, petrol and a spark. So start with the easy one, remove a plug, connect it up and turn engine over - if you've a spark, you are halfway there, and if not, ...could be the PTU? If you have a spark then it's lack of fuel. Easiest starting point is checking that fuel is getting to the cylinders - not done it myself but can you disconnect a fuel line and check it's pumping fuel when the ignition's on - taking all of the necessary precautions so that you dont finish up incinerated... If you've no fuel, fuses are the first thing to check, then the pump, then the air intake heated wire thingy - lost the name in my head - sorry. And if you've fuel (at the right pressure) and a (good) spark, and it still wont start, surrender. Good luck Jack

...the mans right - I think mine had a G in the code. It was a while ago, current Z colour is called midnight purple pearl... They don't do it in Harry's...

...they are designed to pull air out from under the car. If you think of the arms of the wheels as a fan, then you can see that forward rotation will suck air from under the car. ..it's surprising how many Z's you see with wheels on the wrong side - pet hate of mine, but then I do need to get out more... Good luck Jack

Think it's AG2... simple job if it's the textured bit of the spoiler - aerosol can AG2 then clear laquer - you just need a dry preferably warm sunny day - so wait till summer. Good luck Jack

painted mine on my previous Z - used ford graphite grey from Harry's - sanded and even filled pitted parts - came uplike new and lasted about 5 years before a re-spray... easy job and cheap. good luck Jack

...the Austrailians did this but long term decided against it as the intercoolers work as a heat soak, so you can't just turn on the spray when you want, especially in everyday driving as you need to cool the intercoolers over a long period - and they found that they quickly ran out of water. ...this is from memory of an article I read. Sabb used to squirt water into the intake manifold to cool the head and pistons and then run more boost... before anyone corrects me, I'm out of my depth and drive a NA Z. Good luck Jack

...creative director of this... http://www.2cs.com

...could be a mouse. Not joking either... Took some garden rubbish to the tip recently and got back to find a mouse in the car. Removed most of the interior and couldnt catch the thing. Finished up borrowing a mouse trap - animal lovers turn away now - and it took a further day and some Mars bar as bait (don't touch the Mars bar, use a clean knife) to catch the poor thing... ...sounds like you need to remove the pads, press in the pistons, clean everything and apply a little copper ease to the mating surfaces. Good luck Jack

...just put a pair of PIAA sports horns on mine. Very loud £27 for the pair.

...ran my last Z (NA) for 6 years (daily) without a spare (carried a can of foam), and only had one puncture, and when that happened I still drove home, could hear offending piece of metal tapping on the road with every revolution. Mind you, I carry the spare in my current Z... No logic.

Whoever does your black tint will do it - got quoted (by tinting company) £30 to remove mine - I did it myself, it's easy, just find a corner and peel it off steadily, then remove any residual goo with white spirit. Good luck Jack

...whatever acts as the choke is your primary culprit - or whatever controls the choke. Works like this... when it's cold the choke is switched on. When it's warm it's switched off. When it's not sure if it's cold or warm, it remains switched of - so you get the lumpyness ...or the choke device is clogged up with oil from the air that passes through it, so it's not being able to act quick enough to varying conditions. Favourite is to remove it and clean it's airways with WD40 - and check the electrical connections too. Problem is, I dont know what it's called - is it AIV or something like that - down the top back of the engine ...or there's a warm start regulator that's getting clogged or the electrics need cleaning. ....I could be totally wrong here, as I've not had this problem as mines an NA and as such dosn't blow oil around (in the airways) as much as the TT's do. Good luck Jack

yesterday, heading south down A12. I was 2 vehicles behind you in a burgundy transit (trying to keep up). Good to see a low wide car in amongst all the tall cars that seem to populate our roads. The yellow Z looked like it was from another planet...

...Nissan put restrictors in TT exhausts. I run an NA, and it's the 2nd one I've had in 7 years. First had a standard nissan exhaust, then when it finally rotted away, I put a Nissan TT centre box (£10) on it and had to remove 2 restrictors just after the cats. The centre box on a TT is smaller than on an NA, so it was louder - assume more free flowing, but it didn't make any difference to the car's overall performance - sounded better though. My latest Z came with a 6 month old Powerflow exhaust that had back boxes only. It was far too loud. I've changed it for a 2nd hand Jap aftermarket that has 4 standard looking tail pipes and a large centre box too - and there's no performance drop from the powerflow to this exhaust - none that I can recognise. I've no theory here, ...just though you'd like a response - by the way have you got your front wheels on the right way round yet? Good luck Jack

...just what I was going to say.

...it's also worth checking that the vents in the boot - that let air out - are not blocked or obstructed. If they are, you loose the positice effect of the air comming in...

your front wheels are on the wrong sides. Sorry about that. Good luck Jack

...what torque setting are you using to tighten the studs? I ask because I've read (USA site) that the studs should be tightned to about 85lb? (is that the right measure) and I think this is because people believe that over tightned studs warp the disks. Having tried this setting, and being told that it's too loose by tyre fitters, I've found that it is too loose, after a while you can hear the wheel coming loose, and that 100ib? on the torque wrench is far better.

I think that you'll find that the NA's that were for sale in America were rated at 220bhp and that the ones sold in Japan were rated at 230bhp - as mentioned in the engine specs of Brian Long's recent book on the 300 and the 350Z. Good luck Jack

...must buy some on the way home - Tesco's next door to where I work. It's good stuff, but has different caracteristics to Shell Optimax...

Matt - if you go down the NA route, I'm on my 2nd in 7 years - both auto and manual, do all the servicing myself, used as daily driver, and I'm down the road from you in Ipswich. I'll offer what support/knowledge I can as long as your chosen car is also in 'our' region. Good luck Jack

I think they are the same, but I'm a NA owner and have worked on a NA starter motor and a TT and I didn't notice any difference, but I havent tried interchanging them...