Jack

I was there 2 weeks ago in a transit - my (midnight purple) Z was parked in Ipswich at the time... so not me either, but there is a (tenuous) connection...

...had my NA dyno'd a few weeks ago, peaked at 199.98 bhp at 6750 rpm - or was it 6500 rpm? It's standard apart from an aftermarket exhaust from a jap import TT - looks like the standard 4 exit exhaust, but it's louder (not to my liking). As you say, ideally you should dyno before and after to prove the performance gain (or loss) - then you can speak with authority. Mine had a powerflow exhaust on it when I bought it - far too loud. Sold it to a TT owner who describes it as quiet(ish). It shows just how effective those twin turbo's are. Point being that an afternarket TT exhaust isn't always the right way to go. ...tell hellraiser that he's got his wheels on back to front.

I think that there are issues with big exhausts and NA's. It's not as simple as the TT's where getting rid of back-pressure will aid performance. I also believe there's no (real) advantage removing the cats. If I were you I'd talk to a performance specialist about exhausts, then find a supplier who can build what you want, and know's what you are talking about. And when you do that, let me know how you get on, my Na could do with a decent exhaust... Good luck Jack

£122+VAT new. Your local car trade electrical place should be able to get you one.

...obvoiusly not enough oil pressure. Oil pump knackered? ...is it belt driven? is belt broken? ...but most likely worn big-end bearings with that number of Km's on the clock. Good luck Jack

...sounds to me like the rack needs tighten-up... Good luck Jack

...in the old days when cars had manual chokes, you'd get the same problem by not applying the choke - so suspect whatever acts as the choke...

...tints are easy to remove, just peel gradually and then clean residue with white spirits. Dont be disheartned, we've all got lots of experience. Fundamentally the Z's a great car, just treat it as though you are buying any car, but with the added respect that if the reason for him selling it is major (gearbox) then you are looking at big bills £1200. But if it's clean and genuine and the price is right, then why not? ...you need to tell us the asking price...

...it's also missing the rubber spatts - another sign of new paint. I must get out more...

..it also looks like it's not been in the country long as it's got the almost obligatory (Jap) tints on the rear screen and rear quarter lights...

I fear that changing the oil won't cure a slipping Auto box. Seat bolsters are always a good measure of a true mileage - worn on the drivers outside as the driver enters and leaves the car. It looks like its had a respray too as there should be a black plastic strip above the back lights. Good luck Jack

...worry about the date of those pictures. And don't discount the NA. And worry about getting 10 miles to the gallon out of a TT (having fun).

na disks are thinner than TT disks. So if you buy replacement disks for your na, make sure they are not supplying you with TT disks - they won't fit. As na disks are difficult to source (cheaply) many na owners change the front calipers to TT calipers (easy to do) so that they can fit TT disks (easy and cheap to source). Are your na front disks warped? If not, and you are dissapointed in their performance, good pads such as Green Stuff make a lot of difference. I've had na pads in from Japan and they've been lethal - a change of pads can make all of the difference. If you do change, and your na disks are good, will you sell them to me? Cheerz Jack

...blocked pcv valves will blow the rear seal so get these checked out too... in fact the seal may be ok once the valves are clear (if you are lucky).

I had similar problems, and what I'd done, in checking fuses in the drivers footwell, I'd put one back in the wrong place. As a result the headlights were always on full beam. I think it was the top row, third fuse holder along. I'd put it one row down. Suggest you try putting a fuse in all of the spare fuse holders. Good luck Jack

...blimy - that's an old link... Uv joints on your propshaft should be almost solid. There should be some side to side movement at the centre bearing as it's in a flexible rubber surround, but excessive movement in the cv joints of the shaft definately require attention. It might even be an MOT failure - my tester always checks for wear in the prop UVs. I believe you can get replacement UV joints fitted from a specialist prop repairer, or try Andy in the traders - he breaks Z's so might have a good second-hand one available. Also MikeF in the traders had some new ones for about £250 recently... inc the centre bearing. Good luck Jack

Mark ...just replaced the gearbox oil in my manual NA Z and 3.1 litres is correct - and as far as I know 2.9 is correct for the diff - I believe that the spec for the diff is very close to the gearbox, so, add 3.1 and 2.9 together and buy 6 litres of gearbox oil. The gearbox oil is difficult to replace - I used an oil can with a pump - old fashioned looking thing - took forever. Re plugs, I ran my previous NA Z for 5 years with the same platinum plugs that were fitted to it when it came over from Japan. Used to take them out once a year and look at them - always looked the same. So - go platinum. Good luck Jack

...I've got one of their exhausts on too...

My 97 Z came in with Tanabe dampers on it - they are specifically made for the Z - had Z32 stamped on the side.

accidend damage repair places often have the right gear to set up suspension - had mine done when I removed the lowering springs and replaced them with normal height ones - cost £64. Good luck Jack

looks too good to be true - later bumper etc. Mind you, worth talking to them about it... Good luck Jack

Jeff - many thanks (as always) for the info. I'll give it a try. cheerz Jack

on my previous Z it was simple - remove the screw at the bottom of the mirror - but on my current Z (97NA) there's no screw, either side. And judging by the look of the hole, there's never been a screw in there (no pun intended). Have Nissan changed the way the glass is removed on later models? Anyone know how to remove the glass? I'm trying to get to the retaining screws that hold the plastic surround - need to replace a broken one. Any ideas/help always appreciated. Cheerz Jack

...97 manual NA - £6k - 2nd owner after importation. Midnight Purple - lovely colour. cheerz Jack

...water pump bearing seal. Needs new water pump - and you may as well do the hoses at the same time - and if the timing belts old, do that as well. Good luck Jack