SMW1

fog lights are interchangable but indicators are not.

Go easy with it when tapping it. If it's still too tight and you have to tap it too hard, it could jump, then you'll have to hit the other end so it jumps back. Had this with mine, I would reccomend, that with the engine and ignition off, before you start make a mark on the cas and the mount (i.e. the bit that's not going to move) with some tipex or the like. Then loosen it so that it is still tigh but will move freely under a little pressure tap. Once you've got the nuts loose/tight enough for free movement without loose movement you can line the marks up again and start the eninge to tune the timing.

What revs is it making this noise at. Goose honk will usually be at the low end of the rev range and always at about the same place. i.e. 3- 3.5 rpm or 500 range somewhere else around the rev range. If it's only at a certain rev range then it's more than likely goose honk. It's not a big problem and won;t do any damage, it's just annoying, so you can either replace the recirscs or get some bovs.

I don't seem to have a relay in this slot (Big fuse box in engine bay). Does anyone know what a "Sub Fan" is and do you have a relay in there ?

Are they aftermarket turbo's or stock ones you are running ?

Do these still happen ?. I wouldn't mind bring mine along to catch up as I've not been to a meet for 3 years now.

We'll I'm keeping to what I was told, I was just after other opinions. 500 miles under 3k rpm then an oil/filter change. After that I can start to increase the revs in moderation, not sure what this means, but I'm thinking maybe 1k rpm every 200 miles. I'm going to keep the boost low for now but I'm thinking about the rolling road day at the end of june. I'm not going to be able to do 1500 miles by then.

I don't think there is any way I could hit 11 psi before 4k rpm. I mean don't get me wrong my trubo's start spooling at 3k rpm, but I just can't imagine hitting 11psi and keeping it under 4k rpm.

Will be good to meet you mate, we can discuss engine building.

I have been told that I should run in for 500 miles. Keeping it under 3k rpm. Then an oil change at 500 miles. Then increase the rev range by 1k rpm every 10 - 15 miles. It's been mentioned that engines should be run in differently and I would like to hear from those that have run engines in and the reason you did it that way. Just for refernece the engine build on mine: Has been rebored to 3.1, It has weisco forged pistons, JWT530bb turbo's, Nismo 555 injectors, Greg Dupree Downpipes, Greg Dupree Manifolds, Greg Dupree Flexi pipes, Under plenum by pass, ERG removal and blanking, RPS Max clutch, Billet Flywheel, Single carbon fibre Driveshaft All the other stuff that's been upgraded was done before. What are everyones views on running an engine in with this work done to it ?

Well I have been told that I should run in for 500 miles. Keeping it under 3k rpm. Then an oil change at 500 miles. Then increase the rev range by 1k rpm every 10 - 15 miles. Can I ask where you got the information about running it in for 5 miles ? Just for refernece the engine build on mine: Has been rebored to 3.1, It has weisco forged pistons, JWT530bb turbo's, Nismo 555 injectors, Greg Dupree Downpipes, Greg Dupree Manifolds, Greg Dupree Flexi pipes, Under plenum by pass, ERG removal and blanking, RPS Max clutch, Billet Flywheel, Single carbon fibre Driveshaft All the other stuff that's been upgraded was done before. What are everyones views on running an engine in with this work done to it ?

ok all sorted. I gotta say though, what a fooking pain in the butt job that was, I've lost skin on both the front of my palms :(. I'm back on the road. 320 miles to go.

I didn't write one. If you can use a welder it's pretty straight forward.

http://www.zcentre.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=21_22_27&products_id=104 or http://www.zcentre.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=21_22_27&products_id=85 for the spoiler skin. sounds like one of the sensors may be at fault. Get it on a conzult to check. in the meantime clean connections to the PUT, MAF, TPS and temp sensor.

I made a few of these for members on here many years ago. I used the existing bracket and welded it to fit the new speaker. As long as you don't have the 6x9's that had the huge tweeter rising up then you shoul dhave no probs fitting in the original enclosure.

I'll be doing this tomorrow, so any useful tips or hints would be greatful.

To be honest I'm not sue if it was, the oil is so clear it's hard to tell with dip sticks. I mean by the time you pull it out to check it you rubbed off half the oil on the tube and pick up excess lol. I put a little more in just in case, not too much though, don't want to build up too much pressure. I have the car up on axles at the moment. So befor eI drop her down again I'm going to get my sensor unit fabricated so it fits. I don't trust the stock gauges.

I finished work early today so decided to get the car up on axles and find this leak and also check the underside out while I was at it. Good news is there is no oil leaks. I did have a minor Power steering leak which when the engine dumped it's coolant it made nice rainbow patterns on the floor, fooling me into thinking it was engine oil. Power steering leak was just a pipe which needed a new clamp. Sorted that. I found 3 water leaks !!!! One from the howe bottom drain tap (wasn't done up tight enough) - sorted Another from the top hose where the silicone is much bigger that the top outlet of the howe rad. Made up a silcone reducer and also fitted my aftermarket temp sensor pipe at the same time - sorted. The last one was the one I was looking for. Checked turbo feeds - seemed ok, checked matrix pipes then found the little bugger. I should have know because pretty much every pipe in the engine bay has been replaced with silicone where possible. I can't imagine this will be that difficult to replace so I guess it's some good news :) Now anyone selling after market toughened matrix pipes :)

You can't really do the big end bearings with the engine in. You pretty much neeed to take everything off in order to get down that low. Nothings impossible but it would be so much quicker and easier to take the engine out. You can get so much more done that way.

Looks great, really don;t like the rear lights at all if I'm honest, but love the front bumper. The rear actually looks much wider than usual what kit is it ?

I used to crave after a '67 Shelby GT550 i.e. Eleanor. However, since the new models came out, I've been switched over to the new Shelby GT500-KR

The gurgle is probably air trapped in the pipework from the leak, water out = something needs to replace the space i.e. air. Had the same gurgle comeing from the water pump area after the engine was switched off ad after the leak.

Oil already topped up. Water topped up, Started her up for 10 mins revved to constant 2k, turned her off, topped up water again, hopefully got rid of any air locks now. Just wanna make sure I don't have a leak. Going to check the turbo feed pipes on the weekend, well I'll be checking most pipes that I can get to. Anyone know if halfrauds do any sort of universal pressure testing kit ?

Sorry to drag this post up, but was it the turbo hoses ?. I have a very sinilar problem with mine just after the engine build. Is it easier to do this from above or below ?

I've currently got a "Doolz" Chip, but will be swapping that for a "lymon" chip at the end of June. So I just voted Other :)