Quavey

Hell, your right actually there Rich... Well i never realised that...!

My sister keeps tell me she has seen a silver ZX in preston. In her words "Its lovely, much nicer than yours... thank you very much helen!" Apparently it lives near the suzuki garage, anyone on here?

you havnt got a reputation! lol Somone can tell me on the 9th... i was sure it was standard interior! :) Ah well i stand corrected, but im glad i dont have those tweed panels... yuk!

Really...! lol Hell, id never realised! It looks OEM to me! Previous owner must have done a good job on it! It is black, just camera got confused with the light, it was taken over a year ago when i first got the car.

i dont think so?? whats aftermarket about it?

so whats in my car then? Its jap and a 1990 car, defo series 1!

aint no tweed in my car! lol

mine doesnt have tweed and its a 1990 car (as a i recently found out) .... so no i dont think it is stock. Otherwise why would they bother fitting leather panels on some :S Sounds like yours have had new interiors...

It would appear to have had a new interior at some point, tweed panels and leather seats. Makes it hard to judge the milage, you can often tell by the amount of wear. End of the day, see what its like, take someone with you who knows the cars and you may get a bargain. check the buying guide as well. Worst case with hicas and you disable its about £300 for a bits i think, not too hard to fit. Centre propshaft bearing well they are about £120 plus fitting so if you budget £200 for that (although there are other things it could be, tension rod bushes, rear gearbox mount etc) HICAS light coming on and of is normally low fluid, very common. Body work looks clean though, (electical ariel goosed!) but the rear spoiler looks good, normally a sign its been garaged alot of its life - not much water got to it!. front bumper looks a bit scabby but they all tend to at that age. Have a look see what you think - i always think that a car like this in full working order should at least cost 4k, so if it goes for £2500 youve got £1500 to spend on it. food for thought there :)

my bill was about 530 i think, for the labour but there was an MOT and an oil change in with that (altho i supplied the oil and filter etc) Parts well i paid £400 for a kit, but i needed to add some too, so interior trim and other shitty bits were another £150 say, and then new clutch and flywheel was £240 i think from america (that was an uprated one and a lightened flywheel) so all in it was like £1200 to £1300, but my autobox was good so i managed to sell that to get some of the outlay back, and ive still some other parts for sale to sell so ive not done too badly.

They did my gearbox conversion from auto to manual about a month ago. Really fast efficient service, very friendly and very competativly priced! Cant say anything bad about them, Phil knows his stuff and is keen to get on with it. Mine may have been one you have seen!, Grey TT LWB Targa?

Nah its not, we've moved it to the 9th of march because people couldnt make it. It is at the mulbery tree near wrightington, topic in the NW events section. Mascrat is about gone now i believe, there is another monthly meet at guys cottage on the a6, which i think is the first or second sunday of each month. Although i could be wrong!

It sounds like the drive has failed. Best way to tell is to restart the machine and see if it will will eject the tray during startup. Now IIRC nero sometimes flags up "power calibration error" which is basically a retarded way of saying "i cant access the drive properly" and its down to inbuilt windows CD-writing software, so that needs disabling to fix that. I also seem to recall that if you get that error then the drive appears to be locked, you cant eject or read the drive. So to disable inbuilt windows cd writing software, right click on the drive in my computer, go to properties, go to the recording tab and untick "enable cd recording on this drive" But if you cant eject the tray during system startup then its dead, no power, if its a UJ840 in the laptop then go for a direct replacement, bear in mind though that youwillneed all the supporting brackets, bezel and probably an interface converted (laptops never seem to be standard!) from the old drive before you throw it away!

Ive got more than that from burgers!!

ah not bad, was expecting bigger tits though!

nevermind unconfused now lol - finally got fast to understand my car... Feb 1990 it would appear. Hell she is an old girl now! her 18th this month!

am i being very stupid.... the vin number that is the number on the plate at the front of the engine bay right? Or is that just internal nissan model identification?? God ive confused me self tonight...!

I tihnk that makes mine an early ish car then "510802" Not a 92 :s

9.8 psi is STD IIRC, so your up 0.7psi which is rat all. Atmospheric pressure could affect you that much! Or the cold winter aircooler air is denser so as it heats it would expand giving the effect of a higher pressure depending where the pressure is measured from... Not sure if this could happen within the engine bay but surly an ambient of 0*c and an ambient of 30*c is going to affect it in some ways! I'll be honest i just made that bit up but it makes sense in my brain!

To be fair, 15bhp on a car like these is nothing. It could have had that anomoly since it left the factory. A manufacturers spec of x bhp is normally an average of what the cars actually are. Especially on more performance stuff, look at the skyline often far more than its factory rated spec!

well at the moment we are on for three, which isnt bad for a northwest meet :) But hopefully we'll get some more interest from the rest of the North West members.

thats fair enough... will be about the only RB30 in the country lol!

From wikipedia: Although it has a larger displacement than the RB26DETT, maximum possible horsepower is less, as the RB30 block lacks the RB26 block's internal cast-in bracing, and consequently cannot rev as high due to harmonic issues at ~7500 rpm. To compensate, the RB30DET produces more torque at lower revs. There is also an 'RB30DETT' kit manufactured by OS Giken of Japan, which bolts an extension on top of the RB26 engine block, and fits liners, to give an 86 mm bore x 86 mm stroke. It is available as an assembled short block, containing billet chrome-molybdenum crank, billet chrome-molybdenum H-beam connecting rods, forged pistons, and costs ¥1,500,000. I presume thats your plan?? Will be interesting to see what this does.... Although seems expensive since youve got to buy the RB26 first... Or did you mean an RB26? :)

Well... its a long story but basically just had mine converted from an auto to a manual... and i forgot to tell the garage that new prop for the manual had a shafted centre bearing, and the one on my auto shaft was good so they didnt bother to change it... Anywho, its been okay for a couple of weeks but its begining to get bad now. Weirldy only bad at about 40 to 50 ish, fine on the motorway and at 30 but i think its the bearing (it was buggered lol) So im going to look into replacing it with one piece although I havnt decided yet!

That makes number 2 the engine ECU And i would say that number 1 is the autobox ECU but im not entirly sure. Been a while sicne i looked under there!