beermonster

Compressing mp3s wont have any effect as they are already compressed, also most email clients have a limit usually of 10-50mb, avg mp3 is 3-4mb so not many can be attached, best thing to do is zip them up just for storage purposes, and then upload them to some web space and send them the link so they can download it.

I love the boston, they have some truly amazing photos on there.

I did have the glove box off but couldnt see anything loose. will have another check soon now the weather is better.

Theres loads you can delete, like EGR and AIV systems, also you can ditch the cruise and the aircon.

Rattly like somethink is loose, its not like a panel squeak, if someone presses on the dash it doesnt afferct it so its not that.

Well ive had the car 8 years and for 6 of them its never done it, but for the last 2 years its got steadily worse and does it 90% of the time, which is even more annoying as sometimes you can be driving along and it doesn't make a peep, then all of a sudden its rattle hell.

thats awesome, beats the old sierra ad of years ago anyone remeber that with the glowing oil in the engine.

I'd say more like 140-150, but as its an import it will be limited to 112 mph if not delimited.

Ok so i've been generally sorting out squeaky and rattle trim and pretty much got all of them sorted except for this awful plasticky rattling noise under the dash on the left hand side near the glove box. I've taken every loose bit of crap out the car that could rattle, its not the glove box or anything in it but something near it, I thought it might be the heater blower but whether its on or off it still rattles whilsts driving. Anyone else had this problem and solved it?

yeah definately the best option, the less things to go wrong with these cars the better.

Thing is worn hicas joints/arms/outer bushes etc will make the rear end very unsettled, i had all mine replaced and its now tighter than a tight thing. I still can't make my mind up wether to ditch it or not, guess i'd have to drive one without.

Good work on the engine swap, but that has to be the least flattering body kit i've ever seen on a zed, just ruins the curvy lines with boxy sharp edges.

Does it drive any better for removing it?

I thought prop bearing gave more of a rumble through the transmission tunnel rather than wheel shake, I have bearing rummble at around 30-40 mph which then goes as I go faster. I would also check your tyres for wear and correct pressures.

I had excessive wheel shake at 60-80 mph but since getting new tyres and rebalanced its now proper smooth, new car like almost. I doubt its the prop bearing as these are RWD :wack:

You can get some from ebay america, pattern parts, about £60 delivered, I just got some 2nd hand ones off Jeff @ Zedworld, pretty much brand new condition. Seems daft spending £120+ on something that will no doubt out last the car.

Dont know if this is any help

Ideally it needs the permanent 12v and a switched 12v but not from the headlights lol. It should have both on the existing wiring.

Wow the fit on that yellow spoiler is just plain atrocious, who would be happy with that look. Personally I think the Z looks best without any spoiler it has great lines that are broken up with a spoiler, I do like the little lip spoilers though that cover the holes and the perspect strip.

Watched it last night a definate future south park classic.

Ps3 media server is good for ps3 streaming also, converts on the fly and you can browse all you files from the ps3 on your pc.

Awesome, old medical stuff does have a really eerie atmosphere to it.

They look identical to mine, but I got them from hong kong about £5 inc delivery but took 2 weeks to come. Next you will need a manual focus lens with aperture control on the lens as these don't have any electrical contacts like the £90 kenko tubes, search for m42 lens (this is the type of mount for older manual cameras) and also you need an adapter ring, so search for m42 to eos adapter about £4. heres a similar lens to mine lens something like this is ok. Obvioulsy if its something you will be doing alot of it makes sense to buy a dedicated macro lens which will give you auto focus. Heres another I did with manual focus lens and tubes a little miniature JD bottle and a some poker go hand in hand. With macro photography you have a very small depth of field, down to 5mm sometimes, so its nice if you want a blurry background, but can be difficult to focus manually, thens theres focus stacking where you take lots of shots with different focus points and stack them using software so the whole image is in focus.

heres a good explanation, its just a cheap way into doing macro or close up stuff, without having to buy a specific macro lens, most normal lenses won't be able to focus closer than a few feet for example, with these stuck on you lens you can get it down to about 5cm or even closer depending on what lens you have, bear in mind you will need an old manual focus lens with an adapter, i got a Helios 135 f2.8 for £15 and the extension tubes were £5 off ebay.

Heres a few more I did whilst experimenting, i got some cheap manual extension tubes of ebay, you can stick them on any lens to reduce the focussing distance, but you have to focus manually, Heres one with it set to a high shutter speed to freeze the action