beermonster

my oil pressure goes to about 3/4's on the gauge, then comes down to about 1/4, but sometimes it reads 0 even when cold or hot or thrashing it they can be very inacurate boost not affected by temp as far as i know, shoould go to about 9 psi under full boost, may 7 from cold on a uk as they have a limiter, about -9 on tickover i think. check condtion of connectors, rad hoses, fuel leaks, power stearing leaks, check all electrics work, propshaft vibration, tyres wearing unevenly, check aux fan comes on when air is turned on and off, if its an auto check gearchanges are smooth, they should hardly be felt if its ok, 1st to 2nd can be quite harsh when cold tho, check oil condition water levels, rear sills if its a uk car can be prone to corrosion, make sure all panel gaps are even and level. read the FAQ on the links page for more specific info hth

me think shes watched one too many south parks

theres a full project build on this site zerrari click the bottom pic for the details

thats where the position 1 and 2 come in handy :dance:

usual things to go on early g reg cars are water pump, most hoses, water temp sensor/wiring, dodgy PTU, cruise control, drivers window falls out, well thats what happened to mine, but most bits are diy stuff if u handy with a spanner, im not and managed to do inlet pipes, rear water hoses, bottom rad pipe. all the pipes had basically perished due to age/heat, but its a fun hobby and wouldnt give it up for anything else

agreed, i was pulling out of a busy junction into a stream of slow moving traffic, this beemer was on the bumper of the car in front, he was never gonna let me in, the car behind him did, ooh lookie what we got here a smug git in a 325 e46, so i follow him down onto the dual carriage way, and he just wont get out my way im having to ease off to avoid going thru his rear windscreen, we get up to a fair speed bout 120 and he moves over finnally admiting defeat, well at the next set of lights i just toasted him, = one less smug beemer driver.

had same problem, follow the pipes from the fuel filter just in front of the battery and tighten all the clips, follow them down as some go into the plenum, mine was the one after the fuel damper, u may have to take off the throttle cable cover to get to them, problem solved, obviously if any need replacing get standard fuel pipe as nissan charge silly prices for a 2 inch peice of pipe, or u could get the braided one from smithys, in the traders forum

sounds buggered mate, this can happen being able to read but not write, if your on xp try the built in burning software, ie drag and drop files

Silver with high level rear spoiler, sat in traffic mansfield woodhouse towards B&Q, looked vey low and mean

i used magatec and after a while it totally lost its properties, smoke was billowing out the zorsts like no tomorow, thought id blown a tubo seal or something, stuck in some mobile 15/50 fully synth and it cured the problem, this happened after less than 3000 miles btw, i dont think magatec is up ot the severe heat these engines produce. just my opinion tho.

or u could weld up the holes and fit the perspex panel with break light which is what im doing

my car seems to pull to left quite a lot on certain roads, i had new tires fitted and balenced and it didnt cure the problem, think i might give these guys a try.

hehe, was that good thought it was for real

yes its mine, although its in a much sorrier state than in that pic, forgot how nice it looked before the front bumper got cracked (brave fox) and some guy shunted my rear end and buggered off while it was parked on the street. :(

this place would be a ghost town other wise :p

now that is cool, maybe get rid of the snow 1st tho :rofl:

the problem isnt with the screen not clearing, the problem is getting into a warmed up car with a clear screen, starting up and if the demist button is on the screen will mist up then take appx 20 seconds to clear again, if for example the car is cold in a morning and is already misted up, the screen clears no prob as it should do.

Welcome to the 30 club mate, drink be merry and fall over lots

ill have to get it analysed and test the alcohol content :rofl:

exactly the same for me, but not always, u get in car screen is clean turn engine on and the whole thing mists up, no damp carpets, no coolant loss, could be condensation on the heater matrix maybe then warm moisture in air when u turn fans on hits cold screen fogs up.

Never rains but it pours (all over the road in this case) i recently fitted a smithys bottom rad pipe, to cure a very tiny leak, had to top up bout a pint a week, and its been fine this past 2 weeks no coolant loss at all, then yesterday low and behold, clouds of steam coming from back of engine bay towards the brake servo, seems the top heater piper from the engine block has a dirty great split in it, pipes almost crumbling its that brittle, well i got the pipes on order from main delears question is will i need any special tools or are they standard jubilee clips, havent had chance to look as i had to dump the car at a mates house any info so im prepared for the job welcome cheers

mines an import and they are supposed to be set up for 99 octane fuel, tbh wether i put normal uleaded in or optmax/super undleaded it makes no diference really. i put some super unleaded in the other day and it ran like a pile of poo, like it was missing on one cylinder, explain that one!!!

and the point of him doin this is?

think the valet key wont open the glove box, or sumthing like that

mine seems to bellow out a lot of white condensatin smoke till its warmed up too, other than that it runs fine, gurgling is usually AIV valves i beleve, some write ups on one of the links on hour to cure this problem.