beermonster

my mate uses silicon disperser in paint when he has to paint a dealers car, they usually come fully valleted and they tend to use silicon based products, paint dont stick to silicone and this stuff disolves it, might be worth a try, ask at your local automotive paint suppliers.

just out of intrest when your stock tt is on full boost what would the real engine capacity be, ie if its compressed more than a NA engine doesnt the tt in effect give u larger capacity engine. im sure theres a way of working it out but not good at maths.

but its not tt tho

would ask myself why its been stood for so long, obviously the owner hasnt want to run it, trust me if u had one in good order u would be out of it, bear in mind a new set of tubs can cost 2k plus at least, and a full engine over haul probaly around the same, go have a look and a drive and make your own mind up, if your happy then u got the bargain of the century, these beast are a complex and require lots of preventative maintenance, youd be looking a cam belt, water pump, ancil belts to start if its been stood that long, thats 400 quid, tyres on those size gonna bee 200 quid a peice, fuel around 15-20 mpg, air con may need regassing, compresser checking being stood that long also, be wary u could by a money pit

defo, my cambelt was due and i didnt even consider the water pump, then it failed, so had it done at the same time with the thermostat and 2 inlet hoses, its worth it cos its a complete strip of the front parts to get to the water pump so have it done at the same time, u wont know your cars overheated till the gauge goes thru the ceiling, by this time you could have suffered major engine damage, these beasts run incredibly hot and need good cooling, i was lucky i wasnt stuck in traffic or flying down the motorway when it happened.

334 quid tpft, 3000 miles, jap tt no mods, 30 with 6 y ncb footman james, they also did my micra runabout and carried the ncb over to that as well.

over drive is just enabling the extra gear, where as Power lets it rev all the way to the red line, so 2 different attributes are in effect.

yeah its just 4th gear for the auto, and more fuel efficient in top gear, i usually turn it off on winding roads as its more drivebale, more engine breaking etc.

was up at 5 and very icy in mansfield, side roads like glass

the one from the scanners film, its cool if it is that one

Thats a HUGE BITCH in a Deuce Bigalow stylee

im no engine whizz but what would cause that to happen, manufacutre defect, too much boost, oil starvation, or just general wear.

i was 21 at the time, just bought a mk2 supra 2.8i 10 days later it was wrote off, tpft insurance 1800 quid down, was fun while it lasted, spun it in the wet not used to the rear wheel drive and power, hit curbs both sides of the road, took a roadsign out, bent all 4 wheels took the roof, both rear quarters and they ripped the front spoiler off getting it in the tow truck

i u have a look in the links section theres some good reviews and write ups, jap spec seem to be cheap at the moment and tend to be low mileage clean cars, theres quite a few in the forsale section from forum members which cant be a bad start, all uk are twin turbo, if its a na its a import for sure, as is the short wheel base, for out and out fun a swb twin turbo manual would be best but they will demend a high price as they're quite rare, i have an j spec auto tt and love it, its great for town drivin and still has a 0-60 of a round 5.7, but as word of warning dont buy the first one u see and get someone who knows about them to have a look at it things to look for are smokey turbos prop shaft vibration excessive tyre wear idle problems oil leaks the list goes on, the buying guides are a must read tbh happy hunting

have played spearhead online, but i prefer the faster pace of ut2003 ictf mainly, everyone has the same weapon so its all down to aim rather than whos got the biggest gun.

on my first set of 18s and got falken jobbies, 120 for fronts 235 40 18s 125 for rears, 265 35 18s at that, they grip like hell in the dry and are pretty good in the wet, wear on rears is pretty bad but at that price wth

50 meg !!! 350z v boxter v m3 v s2000 race

about half an hour?

topless darts, now theres a sport.

ok where do u want it sending

it was a wind up apparently but he didnt expect it to get so seriously heated discussions, made me laugh anyways

when my water pump decided to give up it lost all the water and over heated, temp guage just shot up i pulled over and lots of smoke, gurgling etc, left it too cool down, came back filled it up and didnt appear to be any kinda of damage, but i did shut it off pretty soon, got it replaced along with cambelts thermo stat and jeff seemed to think everything was ok, it runs fine, no sign of head gasket failure or anything. no mixing of oil water, so fingers crossed it should be ok.

celica gt4 carlos saint edition, the popup headlight one 185 they call it i think, the only celica to have imo, went down hill after that.

i put 15/50 mobile in mine and tbh its running sweeter than ever, mines a j spec and i rarely run on optimax/superunled as it hard to find with out goin miles away, i used standard unleaded and have had no problems, when i have tried optimax it didnt really feel diferent. so thats one thing out of the equation, sounds like somethigns been disconnected as andy says

i think it uses the one in the bumper cos when mine was playin up reading all over the place on the ambient readout the temp wouldnt matter what i set to.