beermonster

Also i've had it were steam was escaping but no leaking water and over time enough water is lost through steam that when it reaches a low it will over heat, its probably a small pin hole that will get worse over time and eventually lead to a split. Main points to look at are the 2 small pipes on the end of the metal pips slap bang in the middle of the engine, these are hard to see as the cam sprocket covers hide them, 2 pipes at the back that go through the bulk head for the heater located back middle. The top and bottom rad hoses are also prone, the other pipes such as under the plenum and turbo water pipes are not visible from the top of the engine and are difficult to see. This will give you some ideas of were to look for signs anyway. Good luck tracking it down.

Ive had mine over heat in the past with the temp off the scale, it tends to shoot up when the water drops low, i've switched the engine off as soon as i noticed, fixed the pipes and all was fine, doesnt use oil or water, no gunk in the oil either, maybe i was just lucky. As the others have said top the water up to the level of the rad neck, go for a steady drive to get up to temp, park up switch off and look for any signs of leaks/hissing.

i had similar problems with dodgy coil pack connectors/wiring, once warmed up i assume the heat made the connection better, if i wiggled the wiring to the 2 nearest the radiator the engine would pick up straight away.

No brainer action film has to be Crank 2 if you've not all ready seen it, a similar film a while ago was Shoot Em up.

if it has a proven FSH it should be fine mechanically, how many miles are you planning to put on it, i'd rather have a high mileage FSH than a low mileage no history car every time, not sure on the specifics of the vectra engine but i know plenty of people with them at work who have had no problems at all.

if your a passenger in his car it will seem faster, it always does, my 200sx with 220bhp seemed faster than my standard zed, its all about the power delivery i guess and how it feels on the road, the 200sx is light and tinny while the zed is heavy and solid but still fast, just doesnt seem it.

Ha ha your at it as well, it says in my post "i'm ditching the fogs for vents"

Well my thoughts were to go with the crystal corners (now fitted with silver orange bulbs) move the sidelights to the corners and ditch the nasty fogs for some vents, and get some led sides that match the HIDs i intend to get, then its 99 spec rears when funds allow.

Cat D's dont require a VIC test as far as I'm aware.

How much are these new and where from, you still have detango these though ?

No its smaller, they are crystal corner ones I think they are normally refered to, prob best to just measure it and pop down the breakers and connect to the existing.

These have a hole for a sidelight to the rear, but no holders.

I have the clear corners fitted, and I want to move the side light from the fogs, I take it the standard jap sidelight wont fit straight in and need to get some holders and splice into the existing wiring, what type of holders do I get and where from? Cheers

Glad to hear it, these can be temperamental sods.

this might be useful autodiags

The little stick is a release switch in case the lever gets stuck, sometimes does if it stalls. With overdrive on you should get all 4 gears. Should kick in around 60 depending how hard you accellerate.

Yesterdays Mirror had a 90s supercar buying guide with Hammond featuring the 300zx.

Well i checked all the levels this morning and autobox, coolant, p/steering were all fine, so I can only conclude its just a large amount of water being drained from the aircon system, Its the first time its properly worked so its possiblly drawing a large amount of water out the cabin, does this soudn feasible, when i say large amount it probably looks worse than it is. I'm gonna drive to work with the aircon off today and see what happens. Its roof off weather anyway :smash:

I'm sure its nothing major, just puzzling more than anything. cheers for your help :duffer:

This was my first thought as it usually drips the odd spot now and then but this was quite a substantial puddle at least a cup full, and the p/s pot was at the correct level, my thoughts are its autobox fluid which is the same as p/s fluid i think. I'll check all the levels in the morning. :mad:

It was working before just not as cold as it should be, i've had the car 6 years and its the first time I've had it done. The operator said there wasn't much of the old gas left in. The condensation is usually clear water that came out before.

I thought this also but the liquid was pretty cold, will check the level in the morning when its cooled down. They purged the whole system and drew any old oil out and replaced with the specified amount, the cold air was much colder than before so its working as it should. I thought it was possibly power steering fluid but the level on that was ok as thats pink also. Really need to get it on a ramp ideally I guess.

Had the old connector changed and had it regassed with a can of R12 > R134a conversion stuff dropped in also, after driving home from work just now I noticed a puddle of pinkish liquid on the floor, it was quite thin and watery but felt a bit oily too, would this be the gas/oil leaking out possibly? Or could it be autobox oil it wasn't hot to the touch just room temperature. The puddle was near the drivers side wheel. It had stopped dripping so couldnt see where it was coming from, any ideas i'm stumped. My coolant is pink but it would have been hot I'd have thought and a pipe hissing like it normally does when it leaks.

is it for an auto or manual, mines TT auto jap

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