stenorth

Ah nuts, i read your pm the other day! I'm waiting for space at my dads as i think my lwb might of been sold as soon as thats gone i'll be able to use the pit back there! i'll give you a pm as soon as done! busy busy at work etc. Hmm, yeah i know i was thinking that first could be longer because i'd assume with a higher output engine first gear would be mearly moving the car from a standstill, worse than standard. But once first is changed the rest of the gears will need changing. Musing the idea of a sequential, based on a motorbike style? i prob assume they don't exist, has anyone ever had a go at designing one and getting a prototype made up? (I know there very intricate) Ste.

Hey, This might of being asked before but could anyone show me a link or explain how the attached compressor map works and what the lines indicate. Cheers, Ste

Thinking of rebuilding my spare gearbox with ratio to get the best from my choice of turbos GT28RS - can anyone suggest directions to go in? Needs to be strong enough to take the grunt and get the best accleration out of the engine. Cheers, Ste

That little switch is for the little parking stick that comes out of the front bumper so you know where the edge of the car is! Took ages to work it out, thanks graham S lol.

I've had a 1996 zed for a while, there seems to be a bit more grunt lower down than earlier engine - might be because of the vtc being removed. More than likely if it has been chipped it has simply being replaced with a pre 1995 ecu as this works fine! only way you'll know is by opening it up and having a look for the socket. The shape of the injector changed to a standard injector around 95 but the cc is no different, makes upgrades bit cheaper tho as no need for a fuel rail adapter! Hope thats not preaching to the choir Ste.

Arggh just noticed this and if you could put me down for 2 admission and 2 track time would be very grateful - when would you need the funds by? Cheers, Ste

Have got the digital display on mine, have had a look and there isn't any special wiring in the back of it - so i'd assume its a straight swap! The digitals a bit easier to work with as it keeps the temperature to the figure you set on it. Not sure if thats any help to you? Ste

Yep, works well - the bar that keeps the diff in place spreads the load right across the rear sub frame.

Have you got one of leons single exits or where you looking for one? :D

Cool, whereabouts are you? I'm over in wolverhampton 3 more to go!

Well old, but i've been saying the catchphase for months lol. "Stop touching me" Haha Ste

In my experince, anything more than surface rust will need cutting out - then treat with as much waxoyl/swhutz that you can with a good underseal. get rid of anything that has rust on it, kind of treat it as infected flesh lol. By the way the worst places it occurs is below the battery tray and in front of the rear arches where the targa pipes feed down and out through the chassis as the piping seems to get porpous over time, by taking out the arch covers just behind the door you will be able to get your hand in to check to what extent the rust has taken hold. HTH Ste

Got alot of ideas floating about in my head but i think i might be yeah, waying up whether to buy a tidy n/a for restoring/driving about in and make an all out track car thats road legal.

Well it's less of a saving and more of a balance you can transfer to putting something in like a rollcage for me. i'd say around 15kg a door as the glass is fairly heavy.

I think its like perspecs, I've known people have this and get past mot alright! my mate had it in his clio cup Yep the dodgy little windows are hilarious

Hmm, yeah probably 80 odd lbs each maybe, still alot of weight that could be reduced.

Must be me but i loved superbad - totally childish and immature loved it!

Ouch thats pricey lol, ever considered doing your own fireglass/poly mould of the original doors? thinking of keeping the originals and swapping them in and out!

Hmm, this is a good alternative - i'm going to have a thing about how you could do this, never considered it because of not knowing where to start. As a starting point got a supercharge that would be a good match? Cheers, Ste

Hmm, i'll wait and see which way i swing then when i get some experience see what i want to do with them, out of interest do you have any links about these? i'm looking but can't seem to find them. Cheers

Cool, it's a good idea in principle for ease of changing setup, if you've got alot of commitment i'd say it's more than possible. I like anything thats a bit different, if your on a budget though matey i'd say an engine transplant or low psi setup on your existing engine would be your best option. It may never come about but i'm going to keep researching it.

Are you meaning a single conversion for a zed? I've been looking at this myself check out these if you are: http://forums.aspeedracing.com/showthread.php?t=7942&page=4 http://www.z32power.com/69109221175932/blank/browse.asp?A=383&BMDRN=2000&BCOB=0&C=52856 Seems pretty much limitless on what your after, the second made 650-700hp, awful lag though by the looks of it! the idea behind it would be to be able to swap turbos for diff applications but unless you can do alot of the work yourself i would think it would be difficult to get someone to do it and cost a flipping fortune!

As title, Have been looking at weight saving - saw this at the end of the sticky theard, anyone know anything about this doors, what the term means etc? trying to look for a way of getting rid of the electric windows for a wind mech for the weight saving. Cheers, Ste

Edk83 is getting together a RR day in the midlands @ Noble motorsports I'm keen to go so thought i'd see if this helps get a few people interested! It's in the mids section if anyone wants to have a look! Cheers, Ste