stenorth

EGR is the exhaust gas recirculation, it was made by nissan for emission regulations, its effectively a diaphram that allows a varying amount of exhaust gas to circulate back into the inlet so it can be more completely combusted. Removing allows more power as there can be more oxygen combusted, reduces potential leaks and poor running (old and lazy diaphram), easier access to the back of the engine while in situ! I would think it might effect emissions, i'm not sure to what extent tho HTH

Thanks for that! i understand - flatten and broaden the powerband. Can anyone recommend any good books/textbooks to look at for engine/mechanical theory?

Is the idea of curving all of those so that they are all of equal length?

The manual has stronger syncro material (no idea what) in the later series 96+

Gearbox next, your going to have fun finding all the bell housing bolts lol, there's a couple you'll need to access from the engine bay!

I brought some connectors the other week and i've recieved them, so he has been about - he did say that he was going to see his portugese GF? I think he's having a hard time, so i'd say bear with!

Some good points above! Teh specs where reduced and the cloth seat if it has 300zx embroidered in the middle is a latter spec thing. Stones in the windows has happened to me, only needs a little bit of grit. Things to look at aswell are the gear knob and steering leather. It's good advice to go and look at it a number of times, follow the basics and look in all the seams and behind doors etc for spray marks etc. Personally i like the horse shoe spoiler the 95-98 cars came with!!

The turbos in theory can come off with the engine in situ, but most find it takes less time to take the engine out. That quite a job unless you can do it, (if you can grandma and sucking eggs etc) It's the rear seals that go on the turbos i'm sure theres a midlands firm that do refurb them for 300-400 mark, turbo techinques ring a bell, have not used them but could be worth a try?? or you could buy the entire chra from somewhere like Z1 motorsports if your housings are in good nick, or try it yourself there isn't that much to a turbo, needs to be balanced properly tho.

Run it for a while because if it's being standing for a long time it may just be condensation. Blue smoke is bad, white smoke could be a number of things hth

This is awesome! I like your bravery for having a go! no harm in trying!! :) It's the kind of thing you see in ppc mag!

Welcome back to the forum!!

Ok, i'm going to try this - if anyones brave enough to explain why you need to remove the other plug, i'm all ears because its got me baffled!!

Maybe? I would of thought they wouldn't of made any difference but i have left in the plastic plug that it is packaged with, i'm stuck so will give it a try!!

Yeah, with those on it holds a just above 0.6 bar

bump

Hi, having problems lol :) Fitted a Greddy Profec II as per spec, unattached the 6mm hoses, looped and tee'd into the valve. I'm assuming I was right in attaching to the common port and the NO side of the valve? I've took the pressure from where it's been stated in the boost controller help on here and detached the stock boost plugs I'm having a problem that i am only getting wastegate spring pressure i.e. 0.5 bar, not matter what i do to the controller. Does anyone know a way i could test the valve to make sure that's responding properly? the electrical feed to it has continuity and the controller seems to work fine. Anyone else with ideas what it could i would be very grateful!! It pulls well so doesn't seem to be mechanical, just not was quick as it should be! p.s. all ecu codes ect have been sorted and car has been checked over recently.

It's probably this or the negative has come lose onto the body!

Yep, and the master clyinder and slave could be checked and reconned

That is probably the funniest thing i've seen this year!!:D:rofl::rofl:

If your going to keep the car in the long term and got the cash, a great point to do a full overhaul :D Best to do a good condition assessment of the car first,see where your at: compression test, spark plugs check, consult etc. otherwise: - PCV valves - real main seal - Water pump - Cambelt + ancillaries - pulleys changed - Any piping thats started to crack, split - things like bypasses on the waterhoses on the back to prevent against future leaks etc. Can't think of anything else off the top of my head. If you have new or recon turbos, would be a good time to put decats on! HTH matey!

Yep, could try this, have a look over on 300zx.org.uk, it adjusts the pressure applied by the clutch booster on the master cylinder, its not a permenant fix as the clutch will need replacing at some point but it will help you in the meantime. It's an arse of a job lol, you'll be upside down with a torch swearing for an age :mac1: http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FAQpages/clutchadjustment.html

If you get stuck, it's not a particularly hard job - maybe 20mins, i'll be heading up that way thursday, it's no problem to pop over. You can get hold of me at stephen.northwood@uk.ngrid.com Cheers,

Sounds like you've got a clutch slipping, raising revs with no speed increase sounds about right! you'll get it slipping dramatically under boost shortly. You'd be best to change the clutch now save any damage to the flywheel that might occur if the friction plate gets down to the rivets otherwise you'll have to fork out for one of those as well. If your handy with the tools and could do it yourself, about £200-300 for a new thurst bearing, friction plate and housing, while the box is out would get the main rear seal replaced at the same time - make sure you do it as its a pain in the arse for it to go and have to get the box off again! A garage would charge around £500 for a Heavy duty organic plate one, which would do the job on standard internals and turbos and another £40-50 for the main seal. From the video that looks like blue smoke?? Left (passenger side) turbo is the more common one to go first. It's normally the seal on the exhaust side of that goes, unfortunatley not really any shortcuts, most garages will be an engine out jobby. People tend to replace both turbos at the same time, new oem's are around £600-700 from the states, there's a few companies that will recon yours for you for around £300-400, as long as the casing is good. Labour costs are anyone guess, maybe a days work or so!? Have you recently had decats or turned up the boost? often the seals let go if this is done on old turbos.

Been with Admiral for the last two years and just got my third year quote and the price has halved again, they seem to be good to repeat customers. Cheers,

I'm making the assumption that your cars an import? The ticking sound is in all probability the lifters/tappets, the oil in the heads will drain away if the car is left to stand, it normally disappear if the cars used frequently. Some heats normal, especially if the exhaust has been replaced with an aftermarket one. Should be warm but not hot/roasting. It is more than likely that your not getting extended boost, people refer to it as the car is in safety boost, this could be because of a number of things most common would be a sensor fault or boost leak. Congrats on the purchase, hope you have as much fun as i have with Zeds!