SIM300

WTF! I apoligise, there is dylexia in all its glory!!! I have the stock compressor housing, that has been machined out to fit T-28 core. The turbine housing is larger, and requires 5 bolt dump pipes. These trubo's will flow 22psi max, but peak power will be around 18psi. They are good for 270rwkw+

Hey Mr Duff, I have larger compressor housing (5 bolt), but re-using the turbine housing, which was machined out to fit larger wheel. They are being installed next week, I'm pretty confident they will fit.

Yes, you can change the hoses without removing radiator. You need to mount your cooler, then cut some sutibale hose to length. Under the radiator (drivers side) is where you'll need to run the new hoses. It is all pretty obvious once you get under the car.

Hi all, I have a pair of new GT2560R turbo’s to install into my Zed this coming week. They have the 5 bolt exhaust housing, but I have reused the compressor housing. The actuators have been upgrade (larger) to cope with the higher boost. Because I have the standard compressor housing, do you think I will have enough room for mounting? Or do you think I will need to get smaller actuators such as the HKS items? I’m hoping maybe someone has done this upgrade and can tell me for sure before I pull the engine next week. Left is the same as the actuators I have, right is the smaller HKS actuator.

Read my post here: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=84036

(Assuming it's TT) Remove intercoolers and check to see if they have oil in them. Even though you replaced the PVC system, doesn't mean there still isn't oil in the intake system. It's hard to tell the colour of the smoke from mthat vid, is it whitish... can you smell burning oil, are you not loosing engine oil? If the anwser is yes, most likely turbo seal. Other things that can casing smoking could be psiton ring, or valve stem seal. To check if it's piston ring... compression test (you'll be loosing engine oil too). To check if it's leaking valve stem seal, remove & inspect spark plugs... if one or more are burnt out & there is traces of oil... there's you problem. Hope this helps. My money is on a leaking turbo seal, & it will get worse over time.

You need to turn your base idle up. Zeds when cold should idle at a little over 1,000rpm until, and slowly drop as engine warms. Are you sure you are turning the idle control screw the correct way? If you still have no luck... remove the IACV, take it apart and clean it.

I had mine sand blasted, & chemically dipped. Came up a treat :)

A few tips. First & most important one is, not every word needs to start with a capital letter. Most of the time CTS fault is caused by a bad connection, so first thing to do is clean both the plug and connections on the sensor itself. Then reset ECU & check for faults again.

I had my coilpack brackets chromed, which looks good. Have you had your injectors cleaned, if not would be a good time. Also, do you still have the EGR valve??? Could also take you IAA apart & clean it :)

Off topic, sorry. I noticed after adjusting my TPS, when I turned my car on next, the POWER light flashed a number of times. This normal?

I've seen people mount the OEM indicators in the speed holes in the C2, but personally I think it looks crap. S14 200SX indicators apparently work well :)

Function... bloody hell. I give up LOL.

No edit funtion! The 245's scraped, not scrapped :) Another pic.

I have 19x8.5", & 19x9.5" rims. I run 235x35 up front, & 265x30 rear... & no, the 265's are not stretched. I tried 245's on the front recently, but they scrapped badly when ever cornering.

Doubtful. Have you checked the TPS to make sure it is set correctly. Is the hesitation only when accelertating hard from idle? I'm guessing you have a boost leak.

If the lifters were replaced not so long ago, remove & inspect them. They could be noise as one or more maybe blocked. If that is the case, soak them in petrol.

Tyre pressure is a funny thing, everyone has their own idea to what is the best. I can only give you my advice, & never run less than 32psi for street use, & no more than 38. I'd recommend 32-34psi for 16" rims ;)

Normally when it's code 13 it's a bad connection, but good idea to replace with new sensor as they are not expensive. When your ECU sences a faulty CTS (coolant temp sensor) is will affect your idle. I'm sure once you install the new sensor your idle problems will disappear (remember to reset ECU ;))

Well it was very annoying to install the new seals & have them STILL leak. Maybe I'll post up some pics, & show where the water is dripping from.

I installed new seals all round, still leaks! :( Looks nice and new though LOL

First thing to check is your brake fluid level buddy ;)

Faulty HICAS perhaps?

Not sure about the UK, but if it's like Australia it would be a lot cheaper to replace with a good 2nd hand auto. I blew my auto transmission, & was going to convert to manaul, until I found a heavily modified auto for sale CHEAP :)

Do a boost leak test, & go over all your clamps :)