SIM300

As you know, it's tight around where the IACV is located. The IACV has two solenoids, one on the bottom, and one on top. You need to test the top solenoid to make sure it's working. You can do this with alligator clips, and test with 12v and listen for the solenoid to click on and off as you apply the voltage.

If you have datascan, test the AAC is working correctly. Is the AAC solenoid is dead or not getting signal from ECU idle will be low when engine is cold. Once car is warm, what happens if you stab the accelerator, do the revs drop?

It's hard to give advise when you can't hear the noise. Give it a service, oil change etc... and give her a nice long easy drive. Keep an eye on gauges (temp/oil pressure) and see how you go.

Hey mate, I ended up making 256rwkw@14psi (with some issues). Very happy with that, once I upgrade the fuel system I'll be pushing for 300rwkw. Vid from my dyno tune can be seen here:

Sorry guys, I was jumping the gun... I'm still waking up! Timing is reading fine (15) on data scan once operating temps were reached.

I spoke too soon, the saga continues! :( It seems when the TPS is in closed circuit the timing was showing 35 degrees. When I applied some throttle & turned off the closed TPS circut the timing was showing 15 :confused: What does this mean? Air/fuel ratio is showing lean on these, but it was actually flashing between lean/rich.

99% sure I have found the problem :) I did a boost leak test 3 weeks ago, before I was on the dyno... but really should have done another since this issue occurred. Well it was a serious boost leak, and not the sort you'd expect. Could hear plenty of air pissing out from under the LHS SMIC (after market). After removing the front bumper in record time, I found it was the SMIC itself leaking from the hole on the back that you screw the support bracket into A bolt and some plumbers tape has fixed the issue. Yet to take it for a drive, but idle seems to be a lot more stable.

I'm hoping it's either the connection to the AAC valve, or the FICD solenoid. If one of these connections was broken, could they cause my current symptoms? Thanks again :)

Thanks guy... TB's were cleaned when the plenum was off recently also. I have checked ECU for faults, and came up with code 55 (no faults). TPS is set to .44, AFM connector was cleaned (haven't touched sensor, but visually it looked clean). As I said before, I have installed another air regulator... and still no change. Last night the Z was a nightmare to start, engine would turnover and fire with revs around 1500rpm and then drop immediately to sub 500 and stall. After 4 attempts I finally got her started. I'm lost.

Hi peeps, Over the last two weeks my Zed's idle has been way to high. It's a auto and while in drive it idles at 1100rpm, and when in park 1500rpm. It is a prick to start as the idle hunts from 500-1500rpm before settling at 1000rpm. I have swapped the IAA over (as I had a spare) with no change at all. My question is, could a bad electrical connection to the IACV cause these symptoms? The unit itself was given a overhaul and clean when i had the plenum off a few months back. Any help would best most appreciated, as I have a long road trip this Friday :shock:

Hi Ivan, 256rwkw=343rwhp

Results: I went on the dyno last week. Had a few issues I still need to iron out, but overal happy with the war the Zed preformed. First run was with stock boost and I made 210rwkw. We tried a few runs at 0.8bar and I made 239rwkw. Most boost we tried was 1bar and that saw 256rwkw. The was all with the stock fuel system. The turbos were VERY responsive, couldn't be happier. Once I upgrade the fuel system, I should see around 290rwkw at 1.2bar.

Are you turbo'd, does it only happen in high RPM. Does it sounds like little rocks being shaken in a can? If so... it's called pinging (detonation). If not reseloved, will destroy your engine.

Easily. The air con compressor sits on the bottom right of the engine when facing it. From memory, the air con is the second belt on the under drive pulley, & it's the only belt that is on the right :)

I recently fitted a pair of GT2560R (aka GT28R)... & love them. The Zed is a lot different to drive now. Stock turbos are very small, and don't take long to boost at all. My GT2560R's starting making boost at approx 3,000rpm and hit full at around 4,000 (at 12psi). I do have other mods that help such as light weight UDP, custom dumps, ported exhaust manifolds. The best thing about these as an upgrade is that not too much is required to bolt them on. Z1 kit comes with the right size actuators etc... I had to slightly modify the oil return lines, but apart from that, it was as close as a straight bolt-on upgrade you could get :) I'm getting a dyno tune early Feb, I'll let you know the figures.

Doesn't sound good, get it check out ASAP. Could be a number of things, dirty oil, low on oil, shaved gear!

Oh really, I'll have to check it out ;)

Looks great, love the polishing work. What manifolds are you using? Good luck dropping it into the chassis :)

Looks great... I see it's a nissan block, but off what? Does it use a timing chain rather than belt?

Yeah, ex-japan show car. Shows what NOT to do to a Zed... looks terrible!

Just a quick update, the new turbo's are in. They look great, I can't wait to have the Z back on teh road again. Only think that is stopping me now is a pair of custom dump pipes. Here are a few pics...

I've never heard of someone fitting HICAS to a NA, but plenty of TT's remove it. I driven Zeds that have had HICAS removed, & I much prefer it.

I feel your pain mate. My Zed also leaks. I replaced all the weather seals, but the water is still leaking in!!! Drives me nuts. When it's raining I put rags on my seats to catch the drips. I might try loosening the screws at the top of the A-pillar, but I'm not holding my breath.

We'll see :cool: Like I said before, I'm not after mega power. It's going to more than enough power for a daily driven car. I too know what you're saying. But wait till I've been on the dyno. I know a guy with a similar setup to mine, but he's still using 4 bolt exhaust housing. He achieved a very impressive 280rwkw at 18psi (with stock injectors). I'd be happy with that :nana2: