nzniggles

If only I could get my car to grip like this :) http://www.break.com/index/drag_racing_filmed_at_1000fps.html

DOH - Beaten to it again

All the Japs I've seen including mine have had glass headlights. Never seen plastic yet.

Does your speedo work in the first 100 metres when your power steering isn't? If it doesn't your problem is in the speed sensor / cabling. If it does, your problem is in the speedo and / or the power steering control box. Try doing a search as this is a common problem

From what I've heard, superchips are not good. I would replace it with something that has a better track record.

It is a good system if you know what it does and you let it do it

Not a huge job and yes if you cut the right wire on the Hicas controller it stops the light yet it still works for the low brake level warning. Remove the hydraulics, the actuator, the bypass valve, the main solenoids under the bonnet and simply feed the high pressure of the power steer pump back to the tank. That is assuming you don't have the electric version.

No worries

Sounds pretty good to me. There is one main control unit for the direction and speed of air, but if you have some clicking, it sounds like that may be working. Be sure to check for obstructions / stiff flap movements (ooo err) before breaking your new motor :)

Sure could :)

Right hand blower relay = go / stop Other blower relays = fan speed

Time control does intermittant wipers, dash board illumination control and the ding dong chime of your headlight reminder.

Auto speed control device = cruise control

The airflow meter is registering ALL of the air coming into the turbos but the motor is only getting SOME of it = rich mix. With a leak the turbos will pump more air to reach the same pressure - to a point where the leak is too great.

Depends on the type of signal it expects to see. If it will accept a low voltage square wave input, it should be fine. If it expects to see a higher voltage it wont work.

The 300Z has six coils and none of the coil negatives go inside the car. The standard tacho in your dash is driven from a signal from the ECU. This signal also appears on the diagnostic plug IIRC.

Nicely put

Perhaps a leaky injector ??? Bleeds off when the car stops and semi fouls the plug on startup ??? Hence rough idle and fuel smell ???

Some fresh fuel would be good for it

I didn't think an oil temperature of 110 was that high. A water temp that high is cooking though.

No because there will be metal to metal contact in the plug / socket. The grease will prevent moisture ingress and stop them going poxy again. It's exactly what I do each time I clean up a connector.

I'll fit it up this weekend to triple check my clearances, etc and will post construction details if you like.

Ha ha ...... that ONE took me 6 hours on a large Bridgeport mill. I'm using a higher tensile 40 mm plate and it's hard on the tools. The owner of the machine shop came to give me a hand and destroyed a fancy $90.00 cutter in under 2 seconds because he thought I was being to soft in the way I did it and "showed me how". Result was a tool exploding into a million pieces around the workshop. Luckily it missed us all.

Something like this http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/nigb/Brakebracket.jpg

Not the air conditioning condenser ?