RobHowl

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So the speed sensor seems to be working fine. Got it out, stuck it on a multimeter and drill and got a reading from it. I thought I had correctly tested the dashboard but I’m no expert with a multimeter to so quite plausible I messed that up. It has one of the converters in there too. Is it easy to fully remove the clocks? I had them out of the mount but still connected when I was testing them last week

To be fair I didn’t look at the odometer, but everything else worked, rev counter, boost gauge, temp sensor

Thanks for the heads up on that. I’ll take a look but I didn’t have an intermittent fault though, the speedo just died on me and hasn’t worked since. I’ll make sure that I seal it up before it goes back in the car!

Well that didn’t go to plan! After much messing about, I got the speed sensor out and checked it by putting it in a drill and spinning it (many thanks to Dan (Toomanyzeds) for all his advice and help!!) and the bloody thing works! which is good news as it’s expensive to replace but bad news as I thought it was the problem and now I’m back to the beginning again! I can only assume I ballsed up the test on the speedo. I don’t really know who to use an multimeter properly so probably a mistake there. Either that or the cables got a break in it somewhere! I’ll start at the speedo again.

Turns out it works just fine!! 😂 After all that faff! Good news I suppose as it’s expensive……

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Got that barsteward speed sensor out to test later! I really hope it’s the issue but knowing my luck it’ll be fine and messed up something easier!! 😂

New steering wheel fitted (recovered genuine one, looks great!) fitted some new window seals and investigated the Speedo issue and am now pretty sure it’s the speed sensor that’s the issue.

Spent this morning trying to figure out the issue with the speedo! Stripped the dash back, jacked the rear up, ran the car in gear with using a multimeter on the wire going in to the back of the speedo (yellow and green) and got no readings. Tested the kph/mph converter as well but taking it out out the circuit but no difference so looks like it is the speed sensor itself or the cable! Also, fitted new steering wheel (proper wheel but recovered and looking lovely!) and also fitted the new window seals. Both a really easy job but make a big difference.

I’ll be attending

Job for next week then. Set the car up on axle standards, strip the dash board back and do some investigating! I have a multimeter but certainly need all these guides to help me!! Are those converters just plug and play then? I assume thats how mine has been changed. Also, what's the consult plug? I see that could be a problem causing the misread too.

They sound nice Shifty, can you post a picture of them?

Yes it’s an import with a MPH conversion. Thanks Joel, I’ll have a look at that. I don’t think it’s the dash as it’s only the speedo that’s dropped out and it’s not lethargic it works every now and then. It’s totally gone. With my previous Nissans, I’ve always found that speedo goes but is intermittent due to the solders

Hi Dan, welcome

Happy birthday Rich!

Hi all, Was out in the car last week and my speedo stopped working. Not the whole cluster, purely the speedo. Everything else is working well. This then caused my steering to be heavy and HICAS light to come on, which I’ve been told happens when the speedo dies. Whats the likely problem here would you think? I would argue not the cluster itself but maybe a speed sensor?

Booked! I don’t think so, I’m sure there’s something else on he mentioned he’s doing that day

I’ll be there! I’ll book tickets tonight

I’ve only put about 1000 miles on the car this year due mainly to the vibration I’ve noticed that felt like it was from the rear as the steering was fine and I could feel it through my chair. I sought the help of Nispro (who did my injector replacement) and had all 4 wheel bearing replaced. The front passenger one was absolutely horrendous and sounded like someone crushing gravel! It’s definitely helped and is much quieter in the road now but there is still a vibration from the rear so believe the prop shaft carrier bearing does indeed need replacing as well! I’ll try and get that resolved in the new year when I’ve saved up a few more pennies.

Installed a new gear gaiter, handbrake gaiter and 3D printed cup holder! I’m so excited to try out the cup holder! Nice and straight forward for the gaiters, just taking off then middle trim pieces, just a few screws and fitting the new leather eBay special ones. They got nice red stitching like my gear knob now and replace the really tired old ones. The cup holder I bought from a forum member, Peage, who makes them and sells them on Etsy and it replaces the ash tray. its excellent quality and came with detailed instructions but it’s just a case of cutting away some of the old bits and it slots right in to place. The USB is plugged in to the ciggy lighter and has an on/off switch and cover and was very easy to do, even the connectors were supplied!

Sounds delightful! What MX5 do you have? Before I had my 300ZX I had an NA that I sold to my dad and still get to work on. Quite a rare one. Lovely car. This is definitely going on the ‘to do’ list for the winter. Might use it on some of the other underside bits that need some love too

That’s a really good idea actually. Did you drop the tank or do it in situ?

Passed its MOT! A couple of advisories around the brake lines being covered in gunk but not any issues and general corrosion underneath. I have given it a coat of Lanoguard underneath, cost about £75 for a do it at home kit. Pretty easy to do really, the kit was good and came with loads. I only used about a quarter of it so can do another quote after winter as well. Also had a special grease to go on the more vulnerable areas.

LWB, manual, TT mate. How much for the prop shaft? Good to know about the bearings. It’s going in the garage next month so will let you know if that’s the problem. how much noisier are they?