jimmer

Wheres those tissues !! Porn, pure porn :sweatdrop:

Drill the sprocket and split it if you dont need to use it again.Try to force it off at the oil pumps peril.Oil pump is over £100,sprocket is £40 ish.

Hi Dan, Im in Bristol,whereabouts are you? Send me an e mail at

Mr Murtie run some dates and i will do my best,just mot,d the zed and i managed 1000miles last year!! so a nice run in a good weather would be nice.

Ideal size if offset is good is around 8.5 fronts and 9.5/10 ish rears with sensible tyres.Your trouble is the insane power lump your gonn run.Im running 285 Bridgestone rears with rolled arches and can still break traction in anger,your engine will be far more powerful than my 470fwhp so choose wisely.

Found this site has some nice wheels http://www.envyperformance.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=2044

Zeds need wider rears as that is the look these cars need.That first set are way too drug dealer stylee for me.The works wheels would look good on a 200sx but they are not zed material.Find a set with lipped rims.Dont spoil the ship for a hapeth of tar.That cars gonna be a peach imho when shes done.make sure the wheels do it justice :thumbup:.

These can be good with a bit of practice,These are the ones that work best with pure copper pipe as its softer.Teng tools are good quality too. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TENG-TOOLS-10PC-DOUBLE-FLARING-TOOLSET-NEW-HALF-PRICE_W0QQitemZ270517108217QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Hand_Tools_Equipment?hash=item3efc137df9

Try this bud http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=MSPORT&pcode=S/CHCP316 Its 3/16 youll need.A good flaring tool wont come cheap.The sykes Pickavant one was the best.Some cheaper alternatives are available and work best with pure copper pipe only.The final quality of the flare depends greatly on the cutting and prep of the pipe.Go to B&Q and buy a pipe cutter,around £2 iirc.Gives the pipe a neat cut and saves sawing.I will look for a flaring tool for you in a mo.

Id say your gonna have to import them.The states have an outlet.

The tt clutch is a larger diameter so it has more surface area to handle the increased torque.Thats why the flywheel is larger to accomadate this.

No mate,a good hss drill bit will do it.Depth the sprocket,put tape around the dril to mark it so you dont do too deep then get drilling.keep the drill bit lubricated so it doesnt overheat.

You mean the sprocket then.Drill it through carefully then split it with a chisel..Dont try prying it off.Youll damage the oil pump.An oil pump is around £140 the sprocket costs £40 ish.

Dude was proper Johnny Bravo.Strong guy though,how he pulled himself up with his arms behind his back is nuts.

^^^^^ couldnt agree more.Does a car no good at all leaving it idling on cold start.

If the ebc is set at 0 or off then 11 will be your wastegate setting if thats what your gauge is reading.

If it worked before and its not really working now it is prolly something thats been done whilst the engine was out.Its probaly not the solenoid.All it takes is some pipes to get mixed up.Will be something daft.It wont be a boost leak as it would be huge if the ebc could be set to 100% and youd feel it.Check the feed in to the solenoid and that the ports are not mixed up.

Those new tubs should produce way more boost at the same ebc setting as you had before.Id check the pipework routing is correct.Something has to be wrong if 100% makes no difference.

Im back Monday ,dont want too but do also.Aint it boring at home.Ive been climbing the walls.Anyone else feel like this?

As boost is raised the gap should me made smaller.As smithy said that is a cold plug and you may get fouling when your not nailing the car.

My 2ps worth is the more features the alarm has the more chance you have of it going wrong.Thats why i opted for the Toad ai606.Straight forward and IMHO a good alarm.Cat 1 also if your insurance requires it.Remote start is great if your 17 and want to impress your mates in the Mcdonalds car park .

Under cold start conditions fuelling is increased.As the car is only idling it cant burn the rich mixture fully so the bores get washed by fuel.Bore washing is when the oil on the bores which is whipped up by the crank gets washed away causing wear and glazing.This applies to all petrol vehicles turbo or non turbo.If you read any owners manual it will state the vehicle should be driven straight away and brought up to temperature gently.

What doesnt help in the states is a lot of drugs can be found in prepared medications.iirc you can still get Amphetamine based diet drugs and anti depressants with Ecstasy in.All banned over here years ago.

You wont love it when the engines died.That is one of the worst things you can do to a car.Your bores will glaze up in time and it will lose compression.

Worn hicas inner joint probaly.Was the old tyre worn more on the inside.Its a good giveaway sometimes that the joint needs replacing.