jimmer

i didnt say the power was bullshit did i ?? im saying that any car that has a tub capable of running 28psi wont be doing it on stock injectors unless they have a huge flow rate to begin with,STI,s run 555 iirc and i have never heard of anyone running pressures that high on those flow rates,thats 740cc + material.

Thats prolly pub talk im afraid,any car that has a tub that can run 22psi and is safe at 28psi would need a bit more than a fuel pressure increase on stock injectors.An upgraded fpr is pointless in most cases,its seen as the must have performance fuel item when more often than not its not needed,its prolly does more harm than good in most cases,uprated fuel pressure can slow injector opening due to the pressure exerted on the pintle.

Jeez whats up with it bud,i get pissed off after a couple of months if i sorn it.

Checked to see what the air fuel ratio is under max boost,if the tuner advises its lean youll know a higher flow rate of injector will be needed.

If your running stock or mildly upgraded turbos stock injectors will be fine for that boost pressure.If your worried get the car dyno ran and checked.

Ok mate,whenever your ready,Some port work,pair of big tubs and manifolds,some high flow injectors,jobs a good un.

Forged engine? did you buy the one off e bay then the othe week?

So after informed advice from three people in the know as it were you,ll "gaffer tape " up the holes on some blokes say so ffs.Wonder why i bother sometimes,why ask if you dont listen :headvswal

or maybe this http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Making+a+plasma+tv+stand :whistling::lol::lol:

you ever tried this Lol http://lmgtfy.com/?q=plasma+tv+stand

Im afraid this true and any garage that fails a sharp edge otherwise is operating outside of Vosa,s testing guidelines and should be brought to book,unless of course you know better,your garage guys need some training by the sounds of it as it sounds like they and you are not sure of the correct Mot standard required.Vosa do offer courses and id strongly suggest you and your guys enrol so you dont waste anymore of your customers money with work done that wasnt needed.You need to familiarise yourself with the testers manual before spouting myths about testing,i expect you still think your clever to remove the bold spare tyre so a car wont fail or the "if its fitted it must work" load of shit ffs.

as Paul c has already stated,a jagged edge is not a fail UNLESS its caused by damage or corrosion.if its not you CANT fail it.and that is gospel.It doesnt matter how sharp any protrusion is on the car if its outside the failure criteria.

Code 21 can relate to a ptu failure or a bad connection in the ignition amplifier circuit.I wouldnt just wade in and change it though.THe reason ptu,s fail is because the fine wire links inside fracture,when the ptu warms up with the engine running the expansion causes the fracture to expand causing an open circuit,car cools down and a connection is made again.

Loop the box pipes it will be fine,youll need a manual balance bar for the engine also iirc.

I built Joely p,s car with that set up and at stock boost with stock injectors he ran 369 fwhp and was made up with the result.you will NOT be able to run any higher boost though without increasing injector flow rate.

Bud they really are nasty and will attack if approached,when i fish in France your warned constantly about them,stay well clear,They have a nasty bite.

snow chains equals bye bye tyres bud.

^^^^ I have to agree,Im not sure either why i should cough for someone else to get educated to an extent where they can possibly earn 3 figures ?? In my mind thats like asking other people to have paid for my Lgv driving lessons.Uni is seen as bimble by a lot of students who take up Drama and Art or Media studies as a total wheeze,If it aint free youll wean out the dross and work shy imho.

Imho judging by the increasing text speak posts on here and wanted ads for consumable cheaper items id say prices are falling :scared:

The shells are different,the intercooler pipe brackets are missing on an n/a and the rad mounts are different also.keep the same loom as its identical apart from the wastegate solenoid plugs.Buy yourself a boost controller to sort that problem out.

I import my engine parts from the states,if you found a seller here thats all they would do then sell it on to you.You probaly wont find a uk vendor with those parts on the shelf.I personally dont get the kits as they dont contain all the parts youll need to do proper refurb.Expect to spend £1400 on the parts needed to your front door with taxes paid etc.

Much more rewarding doing it yourself Mikey.Have a go why not.

Im sorry to put a "damper" on it but once cars are flooded its the beginning of the end.Flood damage is the worst kind of damage as you cant see what havoc its caused,but give it a few months down the line.The car could be fine but it also could turn into your worst nightmare.

let him cut the seats and valves then do the rest yourself,quick lap of the valves,new stem seals then rebuild,jobs a good un.Not that involved really.

Sorry to say this fella but i would get rid of it,once its had water go through it will prolly lead to all kinds of problems later,once it gets into the electrics and the corrosion starts its game over,then theres the damp smell to contend with.Shame it looks a nice motor too.