Well, as many may know, I have recently discovered that my lower radiator cross member has finally succumbed to the dreaded tin worm.

Hopefully, this is day one of my journey to successfully repairing it with a suitable replacement.

Wish me luck, I think I will need it.

 

So, today I started the dismantling of the front end, and within a couple of hours I had removed the front bumper etc'

This was done on the driveway, and I hope to complete the rest of the work in the garage, hopefully.

 

I have reached the point where I am unfamiliar with most of the critical items that now stand in my way, and would seriously appreciate some advice as to how I should proceed.

 

First question/concern that springs to mind is... Can I continue successfully with the car being in the garage?

The last thing I want to do is get half way through the strip down only to find that I do not have the correct access.

The car is drivable at the moment, but once I start taking various parts off she will become immobile.

 

Your help and advise would be very much appreciated.

 

Please see photo's attached...

Edited May 29, 20169 yr by redwine300

Not sure if creating the lower support yourself is a very good idea...

Don't forget it has 2 very important pieces connected to it, that also need to be perfectly aligned/positioned: the tension rod brackets

 

I don't think you'd want to be driving a car that has these brackets connected in a "bob the builder" way to a homemade support, with the risk of the brackets breaking/falling off.

 

:wheelchair:

 

Corse the margin for error is higher but you could say the same for welding in the stock unit. Unless it's placed properly.

> you could say the same for welding in the stock unit

 

the (new) standard unit needs to be bolted into place using fixed points in the chassis and is then welded, so fitment/alignment is pretty much foolproof for the standard unit .

you can see these points in the pictures that redwine posted

 

> you could say the same for welding in the stock unit

 

the (new) standard unit needs to be bolted into place using fixed points in the chassis and is then welded, so fitment/alignment is pretty much foolproof for the standard unit .

you can see these points in the pictures that redwine posted

 

 

Thanks Lymon, I hadn't thought of using those bolt holes for initial fixing if I was honest.

Great tip.

Not sure if creating the lower support yourself is a very good idea...

Don't forget it has 2 very important pieces connected to it, that also need to be perfectly aligned/positioned: the tension rod brackets

 

I don't think you'd want to be driving a car that has these brackets connected in a "bob the builder" way to a homemade support, with the risk of the brackets breaking/falling off.

 

I didn't realise bob the builder was a metal/fab specialist?? If correctly made a diy section WILL be stronger than the stock piece, some excellent engineering can be achieved given patience and thought.

 

Not everyone constructs crap from old garden chairs in their potting sheds you know.

Not sure if creating the lower support yourself is a very good idea...

Don't forget it has 2 very important pieces connected to it, that also need to be perfectly aligned/positioned: the tension rod brackets

 

I don't think you'd want to be driving a car that has these brackets connected in a "bob the builder" way to a homemade support, with the risk of the brackets breaking/falling off.

 

I didn't realise bob the builder was a metal/fab specialist?? If correctly made a diy section WILL be stronger than the stock piece, some excellent engineering can be achieved given patience and thought.

 

Not everyone constructs crap from old garden chairs in their potting sheds you know.

I dont think Lymon would talk garden chairs in potting sheds either buddy... But Ime sure you know of his dealings with Zeds anyway:wink:

http://dta-motorsport.com/

I dont think Lymon would talk garden chairs in potting sheds either buddy... But Ime sure you know of his dealings with Zeds anyway:wink:

http://dta-motorsport.com/

 

Means nothing regarding this thread, it goes without saying that any fabricated part to do this job would need to be well engineered and fitted, just like any fabricated part on a car, I was offering the op an alternative solution to his problem that he may not have thought of.

 

If anyone approached it in a "bob the builder" fashion and fitted some poorly engineered rubbish then frankly we know what the result would be, I'm pretty sure that detail didn't need to be highlighted?

And if it was correctly fabricated and fitted it would be far less likely to fail than any of the utter rubbish Chinese made crap bolted to a high percentage of Zeds (and most other cars) :scared:

 

Means nothing regarding this thread, it goes without saying that any fabricated part to do this job would need to be well engineered and fitted, just like any fabricated part on a car, I was offering the op an alternative solution to his problem that he may not have thought of.

 

If anyone approached it in a "bob the builder" fashion and fitted some poorly engineered rubbish then frankly we know what the result would be, I'm pretty sure that detail didn't need to be highlighted?

Ok it looks like its going to the next level as my reply must of hit a raw nerve so ile get down and dirty too...Ime welding most days with mig and tig so ime sure iff needed a new section could be made but it would,nt be with box section ffs...would you have a box section welded into your body and hoped all gussets and fixing points matched the OEM positions..no me neither. I would of thought a reply trying to sorce a "real" crossmember from a breaker and the method of removal and fitment would be better than trying to convince the OP to weld box sections into his car.Does this reply mean anything regarding this thread now??

Ok it looks like its going to the next level as my reply must of hit a raw nerve so ile get down and dirty too...Ime welding most days with mig and tig so ime sure iff needed a new section could be made but it would,nt be with box section ffs...would you have a box section welded into your body and hoped all gussets and fixing points matched the OEM positions..no me neither. I would of thought a reply trying to sorce a "real" crossmember from a breaker and the method of removal and fitment would be better than trying to convince the OP to weld box sections into his car.Does this reply mean anything regarding this thread now??

 

Why the need to get down and dirty?

My suggestion wasn't trying to convince anyone it was just that......a suggestion

And there's absolutely no reason whatsoever this couldn't be made from rectangular box section, look at the stock piece, forget all the flanges and spot welds. As you know they just sheet steel strength once assembled, it is essentially rectangular, rad mounts can easily be fabricated and welded in the necessary place, any tapped holes for pipes etc can be made, tension rod mounts can tapped etc. it's really not a difficult job for a FABRICATOR as my post stated to begin with.

 

no raw nerves were touched I can assure you mate, but please don't expect me to say nothing about someone saying my idea shouldn't be carried out just because they are involved in Motorsport and their opinion is worth more than mine. the op didn't have to undertake my suggestion did he?

 

And fwiw lets consider how much of a Motorsport car is fabricated by individuals in a workshop, most of it? Why? Because if properly done it's stronger than stock....simples.

> Thanks Lymon, I hadn't thought of using those bolt holes for initial fixing if I was honest.

 

bolt the support into place using those 3 bolts on either side, then bolt up the tens.rods + brackets and the upstanding bar to the upper radiator support.

Then weld the support to the frame and it'll positioned/aligned the way it should be.

> Not everyone constructs crap from old garden chairs in their potting sheds you know.

 

I know, but I've seen a couple of real awful constructions people made themselves to "fix" a damaged structural part on their car.

 

Just trying to make a point it's not as simple as it seems and wanted to discourage people that held a welder once or twice and read this thread thinking...hey I can just run off to my nearest DIY store, get some tubes, weld those into place and all be fine, because "I've read it on the internet"

then bolt up the tens.rods + brackets and the upstanding bar to the upper radiator support.

Then weld the support to the frame and it'll positioned/aligned the way it should be.

 

If you reconnect the tension rods to the lower suspension arms won't that place a tension onto the lower radiator support

before it has been welded back in place?

> Thanks Lymon, I hadn't thought of using those bolt holes for initial fixing if I was honest.

 

bolt the support into place using those 3 bolts on either side, then bolt up the tens.rods + brackets and the upstanding bar to the upper radiator support.

Then weld the support to the frame and it'll positioned/aligned the way it should be.

 

Cheers Lymon,

One of my biggest concerns was the alignment of the replacement cross member, I feel a lot more confidant of getting it right now.

Nice one.:thumbup1:

Anyways.................is it off yet?:ph34r:

Anyways.................is it off yet?:ph34r:

 

Not yet mate, I share your impatience.

Can't wait to see it cut out.

I'm hoping to have it removed by the weekend.

On a positive note though, ordered a new cross member today along with a new set of O rings for the Air Con.

For redwine to pay a fabricator or to try and engineer a home made crossmember himself, I believe it would be expensive and time consuming enough to warrant buying a new or a good used piece. The design and shape of the OEM crossmember is not just a simple brace, it is applying forces in specific directions to transfer the load evenly onto the rest of the chassis. To replicate this would involve careful planning and probably over-engineering "to be sure" it's up to the job. Obviously it can be done, but I'm with the "replace for new" referendum voters.

Well, after another grueling few hours stripping back paint etc' I think I have exposed most, if not all of the spot welds on one side.

All I have to do is repeat on the opposite side! Oh what joy.

God knows how I am going to present a drill bit too the little blighters, I guess I will be getting the Dremel out.

Best pull my finger out mind, as my new replacement crossmember should be here in about a week.

Edited June 7, 20169 yr by redwine300

Don't stuggle getting at the welds mate!-cut most of the old member off, I would personally only be leaving the flanges that are spot-welded, the rest, cutting wheel.........

As you say, far easier to cut pieces away as opposed to break my neck trying to access some of the more difficult welds.

I will have to figure out however, if I can actually get in to mig weld also.

May have to consider coming at it from both sides as there appears to be a couple spot welds hidden within.

I'll know more as I start removing it.

I'd imagine it would have been wet installed with sealant so the faying surfaces will also be stubborn to remove once all the spot welds are off.

I'd imagine it would have been wet installed with sealant so the faying surfaces will also be stubborn to remove once all the spot welds are off.

 

I fear you may be correct, It'll be a matter of teasing the faces apart step by step.

Hopefully without distorting the mating faces.

Edited June 8, 20169 yr by redwine300

Thought I would roughly position my support brace today.

I havn't done any weld preps to the angle iron etc' yet, just want a second set/sets of eyes to see if I have missed anything.

Once its in, I would prefer not to have to re position again.

Thoughts please.

Looking at it myself, I think, what I believe to be the power steering line, will be an annoyance.

Is it much of a pain to re fill and bleed the system if I decide to remove the piping?

After all, I have come this far I suppose.

I've drained mine more than once with no ill effect. You simply refill and rock the the wheel lock to lock till the bubbles stop. The hicas is more of a nuisance, but I doubt it will cause you grief. Crack on mate, small fish that one.

So, will I only need to bleed the front part of the system? not the HICAS?

Having the front in the air helps I guess.