Iangreenfield Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 Keep going mate it will all work out OK in the end. Good luck with the work hope it goes fairly straight forward. Looking forward to updates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwine300 Posted June 1, 2016 Author Share Posted June 1, 2016 Cheers guys, I think I am going to need therapy after tonight's exploits, talk about frustrating. Anyway, after 3 hours of agonisingly slow progress, I managed to wrestle free a couple of more bits that were in the way. If this little lot ever goes back together right, I will eat my hat! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwine300 Posted June 1, 2016 Author Share Posted June 1, 2016 More photo's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwine300 Posted June 1, 2016 Author Share Posted June 1, 2016 Called it a day at this point. Enough's enough! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alic Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 Did you drop your Marmite jar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrisbasildon Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 (edited) What's your timing belt history? Would be a good opportunity after the crossmember is replaced mate. If I was doing this I think I would weld in a temporary stiffener before you cut the crossmember to eliminate the risk of the ends of the chassis spreading, the subframe will of course help to some degree but it's surprising how much a chassis can move when you start cutting out main sections. Edited June 1, 2016 by Chrisbasildon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwine300 Posted June 1, 2016 Author Share Posted June 1, 2016 Did you drop your Marmite jar? :biggrin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwine300 Posted June 1, 2016 Author Share Posted June 1, 2016 What's your timing belt history? Would be a good opportunity after the crossmember is replaced mate. That's a great idea mate, they are over 10 years old! :oops: I like the idea of welding in a brace bar, nice one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrisbasildon Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 That's a great idea mate, they are over 10 years old! :oops: Do it mate, all the belts and pulleys and water pump :thumbup1: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigh Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 Nice progress, stick with it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewG Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 Those three hardlines (arrowed) are part of the carbon canister circuit. You can either junk them along with the CC or relocate using a smaller CC. Remove the hardlines up to the joints with the rubber pipes above. You can sort reconnection/termination later. http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/6901.html Quote She's so fine, there's no tellin' where the money went - Simply irresistible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Posted June 2, 2016 Share Posted June 2, 2016 Did you drop your Marmite jar? Looks like some ones used a cavity wax product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Posted June 2, 2016 Share Posted June 2, 2016 What's your timing belt history? Would be a good opportunity after the crossmember is replaced mate. If I was doing this I think I would weld in a temporary stiffener before you cut the crossmember to eliminate the risk of the ends of the chassis spreading, the subframe will of course help to some degree but it's surprising how much a chassis can move when you start cutting out main sections. How about a piece of 5-10mm plate, drill holes at the end and use the bolts provided for the bumper support to pin in in place. There's three each end. Shouldn't move far with this in place. Then when not needed it can simply be unbolted. No welding required, no cleanup aft wards. Just an idea. Should be man enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwine300 Posted June 2, 2016 Author Share Posted June 2, 2016 How about a piece of 5-10mm plate, drill holes at the end and use the bolts provided for the bumper support to pin in in place. There's three each end. Shouldn't move far with this in place. Then when not needed it can simply be unbolted. No welding required, no cleanup aft wards. Just an idea. Should be man enough. Nice idea Steven, I'll have a look at that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantav8 Posted June 2, 2016 Share Posted June 2, 2016 Nice idea Steven, I'll have a look at that. Couple of pieces of 3mm angle iron will do............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwine300 Posted June 2, 2016 Author Share Posted June 2, 2016 Cheers Mantav8, I think we may have some laying around at work. One thing that is concerning me is this, how come the underside of the cross member has collapsed upwards at the anchor points that are directly attached to the chassis? I am reluctant to release these as I am worried they may be under tension. You can see the right hand side one in post #28 coloured black. Should I disconnect the suspension arm first ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hellraiser Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 The problem is people use that point to jack up the car. You are supposed to use the subframe further under. But some people cannot be bothered to raise the car high enough to get to it so the front support member is there "next best thing" The support cross member is only thin steel and cannot support the weight of the whole front end hence it collapsing upwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwine300 Posted June 3, 2016 Author Share Posted June 3, 2016 (edited) The problem is people use that point to jack up the car. You are supposed to use the subframe further under. But some people cannot be bothered to raise the car high enough to get to it so the front support member is there "next best thing" The support cross member is only thin steel and cannot support the weight of the whole front end hence it collapsing upwards. I take your point Hellraiser, but the car has never been jacked up using the cross member, I always use the sub frame along with a block of wood to spread the load. I just can not understand why the suspension arm appears to have moved upwards, it looks so robust in comparison to the rad support. looks in very good condition also. Maybe it is the fact that the centre part has dropped down under the weight of the radiators? I just want to be sure than when I unbolt the suspension arms nothing moves, I will need to take accurate dimensions before cutting out. Edited June 3, 2016 by redwine300 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hellraiser Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 I take your point Hellraiser, but the car has never been jacked up using the cross member, I always use the sub frame along with a block of wood to spread the load. I just can not understand why the suspension arm appears to have moved upwards, it looks so robust in comparison to the rad support. looks in very good condition also. Not by you maybe. But you haven't owned it since new ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwine300 Posted June 3, 2016 Author Share Posted June 3, 2016 Not by you maybe. But you haven't owned it since new ;) True, but I have had it 12 years now and I know the underside like the back of my hand. It has only just appeared, that's what is so puzzling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hellraiser Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=bf&slide=43 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hellraiser Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=bf&slide=42 - - - Updated - - - Underside measurements http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=bf&slide=44 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwine300 Posted June 3, 2016 Author Share Posted June 3, 2016 http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=bf&slide=42 - - - Updated - - - Underside measurements http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=bf&slide=44 Cheers bud. :thumbup1: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hellraiser Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 No problem. Hope it goes well :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewG Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 True, but I have had it 12 years now and I know the underside like the back of my hand. It has only just appeared, that's what is so puzzling. It is a surprisingly common component (along with the sills) to be damaged by lazy/ignorant/careless third parties when jacking up the car. For example - new tires fitted by a tyre shop. Quote She's so fine, there's no tellin' where the money went - Simply irresistible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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