General Discussions - 300ZX Related

I've got around 4-5k to spend on a 300zx twin turbo, i'd prefer a uk model for insurance reasons and would rather manual but wouldnt be tottally adverse to an automatic. Im currently paying around 300 pounds a month for my current car, which includes finance. so that would be my top line for insurance and maintanence costs per month. I do around 6000 miles a year. What i really need is advice on the running costs, how long clutch's last, gearbox's etc, assuming some tuning to around 400bhp, and one or two quarter mile runs every year. How they fair up for trackdays, will it just destroy the clutch in one go?. ok, thanks for any help guys.

As above, anyone know the output/wattage of original (non-bose) front speakers?? Thanks, Paul N

Hi all, Just got my stuff from the Z centre :dance: . How do I remove the drivers a-pillar? As I need to fit pillar pods. Alastair.

I had an MOT on the Z yesterday, and it failed :( Driver Front Suspension Leg Leaking, the shocker has split :O And Rear and Undercar brake lines Anyone know where I can get either of these without going to Nissan and paying silly money? Thanks Dan Oh its a TT if that makes any difference.

Hehehehehe:D Picked up me red zed today, skived off work for a few hours and forgot to go back :eek: Its a 92(K) manual with black leather interior (as my sig says). It has a HKS twin exhaust and boost gauge on the r/h/s pillar pod. The boost goes up to 11psi. Is that normal? Its too dark to see if its been decatted, etc so I gotta leave it now while weekend. I knocked the guy down from 4k to 3600 with a 1 year car care plan warranty (parts and labour). I knocked him down for a few reasons. A. The rear spoiler needs replacing. If anyone is selling one and can tell me how to get the old one off and a new one on Im interested. B. The engine s…

Rev's are a constant 1500 RPM, regardless of the engine being hot or cold. Searching the previous posts, have checked the TB's, TPS, temp sensor, IAA unit and valves, air regulator, ECU reset but without success. Any ideas on anything else I can try to reduce the revs to a more respectable level? Thanks

I plan on changing the fluid in my autobox this weekend by removing the oil pan ( I removed the usual 4 litres a few weeks ago from the filler tube with a suction pump) As I understand it, the gasket used to be cork, now it is a thin, rubbery type 'cardboard' material. My question is, the Nissan workshop manual torque settings of 5 - 8 n-m (3.6 - 5.8 ft lbs) probably was meant for the more compressible cork gasket. Does anyone know if this new gasket material requires a higher torque setting ? Thanks, John P.S. Mike Feeney got me the gasket in 2 days, Nissan told me 6-8 weeks.

as above! u all talk about P.T.U but i have no clue what one is!

Well, I've replaced the two stubby hoses at the front of the engine which were leaking, I've replaced the upper and lower main hoses, I've replaced the radiator and cap and everything has been going fine for a few weeks........until this morning! Sitting in traffic on the usual crawl into work, the temp gague went shooting up and I pulled over. Steam pouring from the rear of the engine bay, constant drip drip on the floor at the back of the engine. I've done a search and found that Fas has had a similar problem, but nothing about where the best place for the replacement hoses are. (also seems to be some doubt of whether there are 6 or 8 hoses) Any ideas as…

Thanks to SRRAE who hosted the video for me. Here's the link - http://www.nissanzx.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/eldials.wmv Vijay

are all imports from japan TT? JIM.

Help! Y'all know how the Jap spec autobox has that power/hold switch? I need to know what pins it connects to on the autobox ECU. I have a UK spec, so don't have the switch. But I need the hold function so I can get a decent run in 3rd on a rolling road. It just didn't wanna know trying in 2nd - too much wheelspin! I had a look at the online manual... couldn't find it. Anyone got any ideas? I need to get this switch wired up soon... like, tomorrow if possible.

Hi all, sorry to be the proverbial pain in the arse here, Im gonna go look at a zed (uk - better be) hopefully this saturday if its still for sale. The Mileage is 108,000. Is this a fairly high mileage - apparently its got lots of receipts and history. Providing it dont smoke etc and the idling is ok (Im gonna re-read the buying FAQ here) Im hopefully gonna be a zed owner and be an even bigger pain in the arse come monday. :dance:

at work we use a company that builds intercoolers, they can build to any spec as long as they have a patten.all i need is the correct dimensions of a aftermarket intercooler plus a standard one to make sure the fitment is correct. the ball park figure seems good. if anyone can furnish me with these details it may be benefical to many.there work seems to be of a good standard we use them for our large turbo diesel engines(v12 & v16)

Some lovely person has nicked my 1993 J Spec non turbo and tried to burn it out. No bodywork or mechanical damage, but my car will probably need a complete new interior and a passenger side window. How difficult/expensive will it be to source repair parts. Need to work out whether it is worth losing 5 years NCB and paying a £500 excess.

What would cause the revs to go up and down? ive got a blowing exhaust not too bad, and when i breaked today the car started hunting, and i dont mean animals lol.:o

I did it before but I've forgotten!! Matty.

In the fuse box, down by the accelerator, I have a dud fuse in the bottom right corner. According to the cover of the box this if for "T/M Oil Pump". I haven't experienced any direct problem, but just noticed the fuse when I was checking some others. Anyone any ideas what it is for, or whether it actually needs a fuse in there ? Thanks Ash

I’m not having a good day. Pulled out of the Post Office this afternoon and the car stalled. When I fired her back up the clutch pedal was not “biting” at all (please excuse the lack of technical terms!) and was completely unresponsive. Was still able to get her into gear with a bit of effort without the clutch but during the short journey home (no more than a mile), I lost each gear one by one until all I could get was 5th. Suffice to say in accordance with sods law this packed up as well just as I was almost half way across the last island only a stones throw away from home. In the middle of rush-hour traffic. Hazards on, I pushed her back out of the way, phoned a mate …

Hi all, Took my car for a drive this morning, everything was fine until the temp gauge went all the way to the top. So I stopped and waited for the car to cool down. Took off the rad cap, what looked strange: And in the top of the rad it looked like this: What the hell is this? Help, Alastair. :cry:

Hi all - just looking at getting a red zed. I got the registration number but all insurers I tried say that cant tell if its an import. The guy selling it says he thinks its a uk model? Is there anywhere I can go as I need to find out asap? Tesco have told me that UK models are all single turbo and all twin turbos are imports??!!?? Cheers

Pass me any link if u know

can anyone help, i posted a question a few days ago but only 1 repiled, im fitting some hks bovs that are on hard pipes, there all on and ive connected the vac pipe, but what do i do with the recics now do i just leave them in place or what? ive had a look on the past threds but there seems to be a little confusion as to weather we leave them in place or remove? and ive clicked on the link to that web page about fitting the hks in place of the old recics, but thats just to replace not to fit bovs on hard pipes up top? ive problerly sounded even more confused than i actually am in this post. many thanks to all jim.

Its been a year now since I am having cold startup problems. When car is cold and start it up, RPMS drop and engine shut down. I had to keep the RPMS high until car gets warm and then it was fine. I am not using the car frequently so I didnt pay too much attention. Lately i decided to do a bit of research and found that the Idle Air Regulator might be the problem. Today i swap it with one that I knew it was working and problem is solved. Thanks to the forums always.

Hi- please can anyone help? Is there any way of getting replacement keys cut for my Jap TT from the chassis no. I have only 1 key which is very worn and 2 "mr Minute" copies (Copied from the worn key) which dont work- I suppose I could file them a bit etc but I'd rather have new if poss. Does anybody know of any place which does this? Thanks Leonard