General Discussions - 300ZX Related
Z related topics and discussions
79,725 topics in this forum
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at work we use a company that builds intercoolers, they can build to any spec as long as they have a patten.all i need is the correct dimensions of a aftermarket intercooler plus a standard one to make sure the fitment is correct. the ball park figure seems good. if anyone can furnish me with these details it may be benefical to many.there work seems to be of a good standard we use them for our large turbo diesel engines(v12 & v16)
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Some lovely person has nicked my 1993 J Spec non turbo and tried to burn it out. No bodywork or mechanical damage, but my car will probably need a complete new interior and a passenger side window. How difficult/expensive will it be to source repair parts. Need to work out whether it is worth losing 5 years NCB and paying a £500 excess.
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What would cause the revs to go up and down? ive got a blowing exhaust not too bad, and when i breaked today the car started hunting, and i dont mean animals lol.:o
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I did it before but I've forgotten!! Matty.
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In the fuse box, down by the accelerator, I have a dud fuse in the bottom right corner. According to the cover of the box this if for "T/M Oil Pump". I haven't experienced any direct problem, but just noticed the fuse when I was checking some others. Anyone any ideas what it is for, or whether it actually needs a fuse in there ? Thanks Ash
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I’m not having a good day. Pulled out of the Post Office this afternoon and the car stalled. When I fired her back up the clutch pedal was not “biting” at all (please excuse the lack of technical terms!) and was completely unresponsive. Was still able to get her into gear with a bit of effort without the clutch but during the short journey home (no more than a mile), I lost each gear one by one until all I could get was 5th. Suffice to say in accordance with sods law this packed up as well just as I was almost half way across the last island only a stones throw away from home. In the middle of rush-hour traffic. Hazards on, I pushed her back out of the way, phoned a mate …
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Hi all, Took my car for a drive this morning, everything was fine until the temp gauge went all the way to the top. So I stopped and waited for the car to cool down. Took off the rad cap, what looked strange: And in the top of the rad it looked like this: What the hell is this? Help, Alastair. :cry:
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Hi all - just looking at getting a red zed. I got the registration number but all insurers I tried say that cant tell if its an import. The guy selling it says he thinks its a uk model? Is there anywhere I can go as I need to find out asap? Tesco have told me that UK models are all single turbo and all twin turbos are imports??!!?? Cheers
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Pass me any link if u know
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can anyone help, i posted a question a few days ago but only 1 repiled, im fitting some hks bovs that are on hard pipes, there all on and ive connected the vac pipe, but what do i do with the recics now do i just leave them in place or what? ive had a look on the past threds but there seems to be a little confusion as to weather we leave them in place or remove? and ive clicked on the link to that web page about fitting the hks in place of the old recics, but thats just to replace not to fit bovs on hard pipes up top? ive problerly sounded even more confused than i actually am in this post. many thanks to all jim.
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Its been a year now since I am having cold startup problems. When car is cold and start it up, RPMS drop and engine shut down. I had to keep the RPMS high until car gets warm and then it was fine. I am not using the car frequently so I didnt pay too much attention. Lately i decided to do a bit of research and found that the Idle Air Regulator might be the problem. Today i swap it with one that I knew it was working and problem is solved. Thanks to the forums always.
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Hi- please can anyone help? Is there any way of getting replacement keys cut for my Jap TT from the chassis no. I have only 1 key which is very worn and 2 "mr Minute" copies (Copied from the worn key) which dont work- I suppose I could file them a bit etc but I'd rather have new if poss. Does anybody know of any place which does this? Thanks Leonard
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Ive just realised the last couple of times ive took the beast out she hasnt made her whooooosht noise (bov,s) i know they aint loose or anything, any one got any ideas ??? are they broken ?? nah surely they wouldnt both break at same time, and ive not changed any thing , i dont think :confused: :confused: :confused:
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I've got an AVI clips of the EL dials but it's rather large (588,569 KB and I have no idea how to reduce it). Can someone possible host it somewhere? Cheers Vijay
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I have just fitted my Power Id which I bought of one of the GTO boys. I had a quick demo of it in his car so I know it works. However after fitting it to my car. I have connected up the Speed wire to the ECU (Yellow/Green). But when I try to calibrate it I'm getting a calibration error. I have done a search and I know ZedHot had the same problem as I am having at some stage. He did manage to sort this out but he does not say how he managed to fix the problem. Anyone fitted a power ID, that can help ?
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I have been told that someone on this forum does alarms, does anyone know who this is and any details on price? Cheers, Justin
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I have been looking at the VIN plate and noted down all the numbers (chassis, colour code). Checked on Andy Z's web site and the results are as follows Chassis no's between GCZ32 508491 - GCZ32 518719 were manufactured in 1990 (mine is in between that lot) My seat belt date tag says 1990. The colour code is KH6G which is....... From september 91 - september 93!.... And my V5 says registered in 1991. What the hell is going on?... :confused: :(
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OK, a quick update I had my Z for 1 hour when it lost the speedo, lite up the Hicas light and then leg cocked it's coolant all over the road/driveway. Having said that - in that one hour I was smitten, totally, and even irrevocably whatever that means. Now I've got a really easy trading standards case against the dealer/garage, it's not fit for purpose and having spoken to them I get the feeling they would grudginlgy take it back - they would much rather fix it though (all at their expense). Now Mr Local Nissan had a sharp intake of breath when I told them what had happened - "coolant dump at speed" = six hour plus job, new water pump, gaskets etc... …
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I've just purchased a 300ZX and I have a red light on the dash that stays on for aroung 20 mins and then goes out. It's the Hicas light. Could somebody mail me what this light is please and being red I can imagaine that it's important. Thanks Steve
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Thinking about a new steering wheel as the quotes I've had for new leather on standard wheel are just scary! Looking for inspiration, anyone got any pics of aftermarket wheels that look good in their zed?
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Strong smell of petrol when starting in cold mornings, anyone come accross this....
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Back again with more issues for the zed!!! I just laugh now!!!:rofl: :rofl: Errrmm, right, well, driving the car along sunday, after about 5 miles it started spluttering on me and then died, would not start for the world. Phoned Jeff, he advised, remove fuel pump fuse, sis that, turned car over, did that, put fuse back in, did that and then the car started!? Overfuelling?!?! Now it keeps doing it every now and then and now I cant even accelerate over 2 1/2 revs, or it starts spluttering?!!?! Also, my passenger side headlight has gone , no low beam or side beam?!!??! Changed the bulb and fuse and it made no difference?!? What is going on, totta…
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Just setting up my boost controller and thought i'd better make sure:- We have internal wastegates dont we? If that's the case, what's an external one? Cheers
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Hi guys, i'm looking into getting a HKS SSQV kit and found this web site http://splparts.com/ just wondering if anyone has had experience with them and if there any good. The price seems reasonable at £301.94 not inc p&p. Or even the type 2 seem a great price. Will ask in traders forum if they can supply aswell. Thanks.
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hello, ive just bought some hks dump valves on the hard pipes for my 91 tt auto, question is... when fitting them up top do you just disconnect the vaccume line that goes to the recics and push it on to your new ones leaving the recics in place?? or do you have to remove the recic plugging up the ends? many thanks as always jim.
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