General Discussions - 300ZX Related

Hi guys and gals I was just wondering, are these engines in our Zeds as delicate as I'm led to believe?? This forum is full of horror stories of things blowing up etc... that I'm rather worried about doing anything exciting in my beast incase i like kill it and then can't play in it any more. I'm currently looking at changing the cambelt and tensioner (myself... GULP), water pump, hoses etc..., what else will make me ba able to drive this beast with confidence??? Basically, what can you do to improve reliablity, without total rebuild? cheers Bandit...out...

First of all hi everyone, my first post! I've just fitted 4 250w 4 way 6x9s with no probs (I say no probs what i actually mean was it was a total b****r) and i've just trying to do the simple thing of running a power cable directly with an inline fuse from the front via the bulkhead to the boot. Now problem is I cannot find any rubber grommits i can feed the wire through, I'm guessing somebody's done this before at some point so: a. Is there a hole i could poke the wire through (could you tell me location of the engine bay side and the other side) b. If not then where is the best place to drill through without drilling through brake pipes, aircon, etc! …

Ive been reading all the buyers guides etc etc, my concern is that the standerd turbo gauge in my zed goes up to +7 where as on all the guides they go up to +14? Why does mine show +7, its an import if that helps?

I have a 94 Twin Turbo auto and have just had a replacement engine fitted. The engine was bought in the UK but I think brought in from Japan -its second hand. Frm the moment the engine was fitted the autobox started playing up ie refusing to go into top and if aftyer some playing with the accelerator I did get it into top it would change down again at irregular intervals irrespective of the speed eg at 70 mph. The other thing I noticed is that while the OD light comes on when i flick the button out it doesn't change -there is no audible click and no change at all in the revs . Can anyone suggest where to start I have checked the auto box oil which looks fine …

Hi, On the Boost guage on the dash, I only seem to get 3/4 of the boost when I boot it. Should this go all the way to the end (+14). If so, is there any way I can improve it, or check to get it up to par. Jeff tested the pressure in the system a while back and it's ok. No noise from the tubs either?!?

I sold my z 6 moths ago to paul Fwx and to cut a very long story short he only paid me for half of the car.. and trashed it for 6 months!.. (i would advise people to stay away... he's a oxygen thief) :smash: anyway i have my baby back. :dance: . with a MAT BLACK paint job!!.. rough engine and a smashed bodykit and wheels that are the wrong off set as he smashed my ones and put some crap ones on it... scored discs etc...... So i need some new discs and pads... maybe looking for something bigger? they where grooved so i dont want to go back to stock... any advice? And does anyone have any idea how you look after mat paint?!! it looks quite good.. ill try and get …

Doing lots of work on the Z over the coming months, was planning to do as much body work as i can then have the body shop do the spraying. Anyone know how hard it would be to fit the Viper Wings?

I was driving my 300 auto over the weekend,and noticed when the tubs kicked in there was too long a delay before the second turbo kicked in, Im ashamed to say its been like it a while. So last night whilst in bed i thought about the car instead of sheep (as you do) and it suddenly came to me f***ing transmission fluid :smash: anyway topped it up today. Made a huge difference,am i lucky or could i have caused damage? the car drives and changes gear much faster and the delay i was having is no longer there it has always changed smoothly and still does.

Hi guys, Im gonna attempt to fit the audio equipment that ive got from my last coupe, and I was just wondering where the gromet is to run the power cable from the battery to the boot? Cheers Steve

can some body tell me the part numbers for both o/s and n/s lambda sensors (o2 sensor, oxygen sensor blah blah) for a uk tt thank you :)

what sort of components would fit in the nissan? 6inch? thanks

did a search but i didnt find a definitive thread on how to and what to do. any info would be great. i want to bleed the clutch fluid as i think there may be an airlock in there. also i want to change the gearbox oil as i have noticed my gearstick gets quite warm after a good drive. its a big ass metal one. i have been told that , when it gets warm or hot its a good sign that the oil is at the end of its life and is a good idea to replace it. also my gearbox is quite clunky, very no grinding or noize but just very mechanical in the way it feels. prehaps its just me as usual!!. but it the clutch and gearbox something i can do comfortably? than…

As above.

I'm going to have the car resprayed soon but I am considering removing the insulation from the underside of the bonnet. Is this purely there for sound insulation or am I risking allowing more heat to possibly damage the new paint?

ive got one of those ally rad pipes, the lower ones? gona drain the water and re fill i take it you refill via the rad? best way to get rid of air locks?? thanks :dance:

Hi, Does anyone know for sure if the instument clusters are different from the earlier model Z's to a 96 Z? I really need to know the the actual clock faces are different :) Cheers Vijay

Yellow 300 just coming out of the garage, i was in the silver TT that waved...

As about or does the box itself pump the oil round the cooler?

Hi Guys, Can anyone tell me where I can get replacement rose jointed tension rods as I managed to snap the drivers side one the other day. Also has anyone else suffered a similar failure with there's. Basically I came round a blind corner doing about 50 to find a line of standing traffic with the last car reversing backwards. Anyway slammed the anchors on reasonably hard to pull up, all going fine then an almighty bang and the car pulled hard to the right. Managed to stop ok without hitting anyone and pulled up to investigate what the noise was to find the arm snapped in 2 and a small amount of bodywork damage where the wheel had come back and hit the arch liner…

I've tryied to fix mine yesterday but I don't have any notice with it!!! I've 3 wire on my gauge: - 1 Green - 1 White - 1 Black I've read the "how to" and it says to connect the AFR to the white cable on the O2 Sensor. That what I did and also I've connected the white and black to the +12V. My AFR is on but the signal stay green (between rich and lean) all the time. On my previous car, I fixed it and when I was accelerating, It's was red (rich) and when I release the accelerator, it become lean. But here, it's stay the same (green) at all time!! Sorry if you don't understand my english Thank you for your help Bubuche

15/8 about 11am. Going past the hospital G reg, import TT.

My car runs great :cool: (up to 3000 revs - and then misfires :( ) with the MAF disconnected - re-connecting the MAF seems to make the 3 pots on the passenger side stop firing/misfire!!!!!! I assume I need a new MAF - anyone got one pleeeeeessssse?????? AndyGP :dance:

Hi, I'm looking at buying a new exhaust (cat back). I'd like something with a nice rumble that sounds sporty, but not mega loud. People have recommended the mongoose, but some say its not much different from the standard which I have at the mo. Any advice would be welcome..

On my zed, the rear spoiler is been removed and fascia panel/high level brake light has been fitted. Now the strip of bulbs running along the brake light, these are just 6 or so side light bulbs aren't they? Anyone removed them all and replaced them all with high power LEDs? What spec ones did you fit? Ta

Where can i get some from? How much should they be? Thanks