silverbullet

all in, it cost me £720, that was for the stock frame and running gear, suspension arms and a lump of ally for the prop spacer

the ratio between diffs is four turns of the prop to one turn of the road wheel with the N/A diff and three point nine turns of the prop to one on the wheel. the N/A has quicker acceleration but looses top end. to do a full convertion you will need one N/A frame complete with diff half shafts & side flanges, both knuckles with hubs and the back end off an N/A prop..... with mine all i added were the suspention arms and a diff to prop spacer.

Lighter?????? may well be but, fec me! i need to pop my hemeroids back in after manouver that lot :D

nope, that was half the reason for the swap :)

i've gone down the solid collar route but, they are'nt on there in the pics, latter fitted when the frame went on. it is what they take off an N/A except for the four arms each side. stock frame, diff, knuckles/hubs and half shafts. i'l look into doing a how too. it's actually more envolved than i thought, all though fairly easy to do. as i haven't driven it yet i can't comment on the performance of the driftworks arms but, just from shear quality and price of these arms, i would gladly sing their praises from the roof tops.

finally got the subframe finished and fitted:hurray: some pics....

;) Quavey

is it a stock ECU? if not, could be a launch control, T/C switch. has it been spliced in? which ECU does it go to? (main one, gearbox one or steering) which wire from the ECU does it go to? :)

thats bizzare, its definatly got a TT flange pattern but with an N/A length. i suppose the only way of doing it other than making a new diff flange would be to swap yokes over with an N/A one. either way is going to be pricey. what a bugger!!! so what was their responce to it all or have you not contacted them yet?

£1500 for Tein RA's :eek:

im running Tein RA's, set to just over halfway towards the hardest setting and its surprisingly a comfy ride but, that might be because im used to it now;) :)

i do :)

apparantly cliffords are ok'd YTS Weazel what alarm have you got?

im intreaged now... easy way to tell, the TT stock prop (JDM,UK. not sure on US) has a six blot pattern whilst the N/A is a square four bolt pattern. the one peice shaft (TT) i have from Z1 has a rectangular four bolt pattern with a six bolt converting spacer. so.... if your prop end has a rectangular face with around 1/2" difference between perpendicular sides and is too long then i dont think it can be used without machining a new diff flange. but.... if the bolt patern has equal sides then its possile that its an N/A fitment. when you post the pics, can you measure between bolt holes( off center, not through axis) and the overal lengh of the shaft :)

just thought Smithy, you would have to make up a diff flange to suit the prop but, then the lengh would not match. or you could swap flanges over but, then the sizes would suit a TT shaft anyway. still it could be possibe with a little machine work, you could turn up a bespoke diff flange the size of an N/A with TT bolt holes. if you like i could price the job up for ya, still have some raw material left over;) :D

no probs, as soon as its all set up and ive had a play, il give you the low down :)

thanks Radon :)

ssshhhhhhhhhh:x: goes without saying ;)

cheers Jimbo, a couple of pints on me in Holland for you bud :duffer:

thanks smithy. Wozzer might well be in the market for your prop. i know he's going down the N/A rear route :)

thanks Paul, i did think about the traction issue and im contemplating on setting up the AEM TC :)

as some of you might know i'm in the proccess of fitting an N/A rear to the old girl. the problem i had was my prop shaft. its a one piece ally TT shaft so i didnt want to get ride of it for an N/A shaft, reason being money's tight and didnt fancy shelling out for another prop so, this is how i over came the problem...... one ally spacer, machined from a solid lump costing £20, 5 hack saw blades and 2 days in the work shop on a lathe and pillar drill. the thin ring spacer is original which came with the prop. the two are then bolted together..... it is then bolted to the diff flange to bring the distance out to the same spec as a TT.... planning to get it all up and running by next week:dance:

not yet but, we are looking into a super charger for it;) :D

give it a few years and me and the misses will be chopping the 350 in for one.....

looking good buddy!!! :)