Joely P

That must rub on lock? Will I have the pleasure of seeing it at Simply Japanese?

I mirror lonezedders comments, his advice is bob on from my experience too.

Those sizes aren’t bad to be honest James. You would need to roll the little lip on the rear arches for clearance and you would need to use caution on your tyre size choice. The fronts will fit nicely but I you would need to be cautious of caliper clearance depending on what the spoke design (and what brakes) you have. Here is a pic of my car for reference. The specs you have listed would make the front wheel retract in by 2mm and the rear wheels extend out by 1mm. So perfectly doable but the choice of tyre is critical and the caliper clearance is hit and miss! What wheels are they that you’re looking at, still a BBS LM style?

That’s some serious offset and ride height there Stephen! Stance what? Simpleh Loveleh!

Hope you get it sorted Lisa, nice to see you posting on here even if it is for a damsel in distress! [emoji106]

Today I thought I’d get mine out of the garage and wash off all the dust that had settled on it from when I used it last week. Looked like I’d driven through sandstorm! Taking appropriate care and preparation I pre-washed the car (without touching it) and the weather was nicely overcast. Then I rinse and proceed to wash and DISASTER, the sun comes out gleaming brightly! I finish up hastily and start to dry the car quickly but it’s too late, water marks everywhere! My previous experience has proved to me how bad news this is as even with the proper chemicals, they still need a fair bit of pressure with a cloth to remove and the swirls jump out thick and fast in my anally pampered paint! I dried off the rest of the car quickly and put it back in the garage to conjure up a plan. I’ve had success in the past removing them with a clay bar so even though this was way more than I planned to do, I proceeded to clay the car which was removing the water marks, progress. A panel wipe down proved this progress to be just lining up more work; paint marring all over the shop, doh! I drove the car back out of the garage to assess the “damage” in the sun and it looked a right mess. Half the bonnet swirled like mad from trying to remove them with a microfibre, and the other half marred and overlapping the swirls giving that horrible hazy, almost hologram effect! At this point there was only really one thing to do; the car went back in the garage, the rest of the car was thoroughly clayed and out came the polisher. Way above what my plans for the day had accounted for now and I spend the next few hours whizzing round with the Scholl S40! Being a single garage I can only do the front, one side and the back at a time but by ignoring most defects other than what I had just caused, I managed to do the whole front end and the drivers side with one pass of the polisher in just a couple of hours. This is quite an achievement as I would usually spend a whole day finishing the bonnet alone removing every last minuscule defect but I managed to stay focused and not go too deep! With it cut back to a nice finish I sealed the paint and then layered on a coat of Quik wax to protect the sealant, then took the car out and put it back in the garage the other way before doing the school run. Tomorrow I’ll do the back end and passenger side and I’ll be back to where I was yesterday (without the sand on it)! Serious stuff huh?

Parcelfarce!

I doubt they would close the museum for it. General admission to the museum would get you in I reckon with the bonus addition of a car show.

Looks good and a nice venue. Unfortunately, I’m working this Sunday but certainly one to keep in mind for the future.

It’s calibrated by my rear wheels hitting the first part of the ramp; when that happens, I know I’ve gone over the edge! What I do to ensure I don’t go too far is to make flight level and angle of attack change calculations. I count the number of layers in total and divide it by the AOA cosine that I reach per layer. From there I can cross reference with the ISO pressure at sea level to work out which wrung I have ascended to. Can be quite time consuming.

I fitted a carbon canister from an R33 GTR to mine, they’re much smaller and plumb straight in. In my opinion, it is a mistake not to have a CC fitted as you can really smell the vapours and the smell of fuel becoming “acceptable” or normal could mask a more serious problem!

On approach: Landed: Since I had the system apart, my A/C was making the occasional squeal so a quick trip up the ramps to dial in a bit more tension on the belt! Followed by a test drive and some anti-social behaviour to re-bed my front brakes and eliminate some steering wheel wobble when braking from high speed.

You won’t have any friendly competition from me this year!

That’s a shame to hear. Tut tut Lancaster, sort it out!

[emoji1]

I’ve opted to keep my TT setup. I’m more than happy with the driver aid of the HICAS so keep that maintained and functioning correctly. I also like to have the leg room for comfortable cruising as a GT car at a lower RPM, in fact I wish the Z had a 6th gear!

Today I refitted my centre console with its new bass level controller but before it went in, I knocked up a retaining plate to replace the broken tabs where the ash tray trim slides into the armrest console. These tend to break quite easily and all 3 of these trims that I have are broken so I thought I’d give t a quick attempt at a repair. It never really made an awful lot of difference to the way it seated but it did lift slightly. I joggled a piece of T0, cut it to shape, measured the mounting depth with verniers then riveted shims onto the tabs to make it a flush fit and then bonded it in place! Properly overkill I guess but it didn’t take long so it was worth a try, in fact it’s pretty gash really, I cut, drilled and bent with no marking, no proper measurements and all free hand! I know these trims aren’t expensive but there’s really nothing else wrong with my one and it matches the ash tray cover trim and dash.

Hope it’s nothing serious Ian and also that those guys can fix her up properly! Love the way you told the story! [emoji1]

Maybe look into a Tein suspension setup with soft spring rates and their Electronic Damping Force Control (EDFC) option.

Welcome to the club Tom, let’s see some pics the sapphire blue is a lovely colour.

Have you checked the fuse? Assuming you have, I would suggest that you work your way through the wiring diagram from the power supply through each connector to find when it is lost. I can have a look tomorrow if you need assistance finding the locations of everything. How did you test the switch? Here is a schematic of the circuit, I have removed the auto and left hand drive options for simplicity:

Have you done any initial troubleshooting Ted? At the back, where the bulbs go, do you have 12v? Probe the +12v terminal and use a decent ground on the body, not the -ve wire. Is yours auto or manual?

I’ve got them in the boot, still plenty of room for everything as it’s only a 10” and the amps are under the false floor. If you’re looking for a super sleek sub install, check out Andrew’s custom underfloor box modelled on the JL stealthbox. What is stopping you from getting a sub/amp?

That’s where I wanted mine ideally but the depth of the controller with the cable plugged in was too much to fit behind the cowl and I didn’t want to modify it to fit. I’ll see how I get on with this position but I think it would be better around the wheel somewhere.

I’ve always had a USB port in my cigarette lighter spot for my AppRadio connection but I rarely used it so I’ve replaced it with a bass level controller from my sub amp. I used to have one under the cowl of my steering column but since upgrading my amps I didn’t have one and missed being able to tweak it with my wide variation of musical taste! I managed to source one for my current amp from the manufacturer and I thought the redundant part of the centre console would make a nice place to install it. I cut and formed a small piece of aluminium and painted it black for the mounting plate. The controller is attached to this with a nut over the shaft. On the top side I used a matt black plastic disc as a quick but effective method to blank off the hole before pushing the knob in place.