Joely P

I think the engine goes in that bit Gaz [emoji106]

That's a gorgeous looking Z, great job [emoji106]

I tackled a little job that has been niggling me for some time, I gave my balance bar a likkle overhaul [emoji106] I've tried to avoid going too far with tarting up my engine bay, staying away from too much bling and keeping it looking as clean and stock as possible. As far as cleanliness is concerned, it's fairly maintenance free and just needs a quick wipe down every now and again. I'm a big fan of some of the impressive bays created in the club, but I can't help but think some of them must be an absolute nightmare to keep them looking their best!

I'd love a garage that size [emoji106] very nice chap.

I'm after a couple of these little harness clip/hangers that hook onto the rear bulkhead of the engine bay, under the weather seal and hang down supporting the loom. The particular ones I am after have a double hook layout. Does anyone have a couple to spare? A couple of pics for reference:

Thanks matey [emoji4] the wheels are Volk TE Progressiv, 19x8.5 ET22 front with 225/35 tyres and 19x9.5 ET25 rear with 255/30 tyres [emoji106] For info reference your other thread; the front arches just have the liner locator tabs bent up for a little extra clearance and the rear arches have been rolled flat.

Yes, they go very low if you want them to. In fact, on mine the rears would sit too low on the highest setting! I had to increase the preload on them to raise the ride height.

[emoji41]

Graeme Grievance sounds like the man for the job!

Based on the fact that you consider your 300 as a road car first, in my opinion, all of your coilover options listed will ruin your street ride quality due to the silly spring rates supplied. My personal experience and recommendation would be a kit from MeisterR, specifically the Zeta S kit so it has rubber as apposed to solid bushes. To further lessen the harsh effect of race tuned suspension, you could choose a softer spring rate set (I chose 6kg front and 4kg rear which used to be offered as the SWB option). This will further improve the supple, yet sure footed ride. I have all 4 dampers on mine set to max soft and the ride is more comfortable than any lowered shock/spring combo I have experienced, whilst being far superior in performance. If you ever use it on the track, you can simply dial the dampers up giving you a relatively competitive setup. I would also advise uprated anti roll bars to accompany this keeping the body roll down as a result of the softer springs. MeisterR are a trader on here offering some nice discounts, the service and after sales, in my experience, have been excellent. http://www.meisterr.co.uk/products/zeta-s/

Not being able to fit 18x9.5" wheels on the rear with HICAS installed is incorrect. It very much depends on the offsets of the wheels you're fitting, you could have clearance issues with 18x8" wheels of the wrong offset. If your HICAS system is serviceable (generally an MOT tester will pick upon worn joints or leakages) and you don't dislike the way it works, then keep it. If at some point in the future, you get issues with the components and a big bill looks imminent, the option to then replace with the driftworks lock out kit would be worth considering. Personally, I have no issues with the HICAS, I like what it does, I have 9.5" wide wheels and I will continue to repair it as required. If you must lock it out, I agree that the driftworks kit is the best kit to use for reasons mentioned above [emoji106]

Today, I picked mine up from the paint shop. I slaved on the panels for a gentle cruise home and parked her back in the garage. A few days of work will prevent me from rebuilding, but at least the Z is now stone chip free once again [emoji106]

Regardless of what the finish may look like up close, the overall result is a huge improvement [emoji106]

Ah I see. I thought that was just 2 into 1 fro both aerials. I'll flip mine round and see if it improves [emoji106]

What does this plug look like that you need to reverse?

The rear screen aerial is pretty poor in comparison to the 20ft tall telescopic one! If you want decent radio reception after deleting the telescopic aerial, shoot for a DAB receiver head unit that comes with a decent antenna.

I use it with an RPS flywheel. I'm pretty sure the clutch booster is still present, unless Jimmer knows otherwise? [emoji53]

Happy Birthday Baz [emoji106]

Happy Birthday Nick [emoji106]

Between you and I, it's a bit of a cunning and devious misdirection as I didn't specify the currency of the deal. As he's in HongKong I think it's only fair I pay in his local currency [emoji57]

Ive recently replaced my clutch and for me, the answer to this question is now very straight forward. For many years, the RPS Max Street clutch has been at the forefront of well reviewed clutches and will appear many times in a search on this forum and worldwide. Previously, I chose to go for the RPS Sport Street as I didn't have plans for much power and was more interested in a light pedal than clamping force! Having decided to install 555s and up the boost, I thought it was best to upgrade the clutch in case in didn't hold during mapping. So I began to research what clutches were currently available and what came recommended since I looked 7 years ago. My findings were inconclusive as there were many available but most came with horror stories. The RPS was still scored well for reliability but was renownedly heavy which is what put me off. With some more research, I noticed on the Specialty Z website that the Max Street had been redesigned and after some email exchanges with Greg Dupree, I was assured that the new version (with the silver casing) was significantly lighter than its predecessor. Even though I could find very few reviews, I took a punt and went for the new RPS Max Street with an updated pivot fork. To say I'm happy with it is an understatement, it's f'ing great! I can honestly say, it's possibly one of the lightest clutches I've ever depressed, according to Jimmer it's lighter than a healthy stock clutch system and its lighter than my fairly modern Mazda 6 daily drive yet it can handle 700ftlbs of torque, win-win! Specialty Z are a great company to use, the customer service is quick and helpful, so my input/recommendation to this thread, is the RPS Max Street [emoji106] http://specialtyz.com/shop/default/300zx/clutch-flywheel/sz-sport-street-for-vg30dett-and-vq35s-335.html

Swap +10k? [emoji389][emoji383][emoji384][emoji387][emoji386][emoji385]??

A few years ago I had a plan to chop in my 2+2 and start a fresh with a 2+0 as I prefer many aspects of the SWB. After much deliberation and considering all the man hours, money, blood, sweat and tears invested in my 2+2 so far, I decided not to write off another huge sum of cash in an attempt to sit on a different shade of green on the other side! Nevertheless, my plan was fairly specific, a SWB finished in the whitest white, with a 99spec front bumper and rear lights, black roof bars and a narrowed down choice of 18" wheels (of which LMGT4's were on the list). Have you been reading my diary?! The twinz rear made it onto my list of maybes and I was always pondering whether to fit a twinz spoiler or leave it flush. The quality and standard of this restoration, the attention to detail under the bonnet and the tastefully restored interior has further forged it's impression as my absolute favourite Z32 to date. Swap?

More details... [emoji106]

[emoji7] that is just [emoji7] spoiler or no spoiler, it looks fantastic. The perfect example of a Z32 in my book. I would definitely put the pin stripes on, it only costs a couple of quid from eBay for plenty to do the whole car and it's very close to the OEM colour. I wouldn't recommend going black, order some of this in charcoal, slap it on and see what you think. If you don't like it, whip it off! I'm a big fan of the swage line pin stripe [emoji106] http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/221834591077