BambooJoe

I seem to remember reading something about the gears in the odometer being different depending on whether it was a import or UK car but i don’t know if that is just wishful thinking... was hoping someone could shed some light on it. That said, Jimmer’s comment has now got me wondering about the value of the car, should I decide to swap out the original speedo...

No I haven't touched the clocks on the car. The picture above is from the new UK (ish) clocks I've purchased.

Nope, JDM Auto at the moment. Does the gearbox make a difference?

Evening all. I recently acquired a new cluster, which was advertised as some sort of UK/JDM hybrid. Now it has a UK speedometer, but what i want to know is if the odometer will read in miles or kilometres. So, question the is, is there anyway to tell by looking at the cluster, whether it will count in miles or KM's? I've taken some pictures of the odometer on the off chance this will help answer my question. Thank.

Nice, How did you mount them? Did you need to make a bracket or were you able to buy something already made?

It’s been a while since I’ve posted anything, so I thought I’d ask a question. I’m going to be replacing my stereo soon and I’m toying with the idea of putting 3 aftermarket gauges in the spare DIN slot below. Question is – what are the three most important gauges I should be looking to install? My car is a completely standard TT with no engine/big power modifications on the horizon. I’m just looking to know a bit more about how the engine is running, and if something is not right – catch any problems as early as possible. That and I want a boost gauge because I am big kid! Anyway, what should I be looking at? Thanks all, and Happy New Year!

That’s good timing. I noticed yesterday that my clock has given up on me. No doubt i’ll give this a try at some point. Thanks for posting the write-up Jeff.

Received mine today. Thanks again Gaz.

Thanks Gaz!

Interestingly, the picture on Z Centre shows two parts, although i have no idea how many you need or if this is just a 'stock' picture. As for the gasket, it's currently going for £56+ delivery on Z Centre, you can have mine for £30 inc. delivery if you want it? If you want it, I'll post a picture showing the part number so you can double/triple check it's the right one.

I can't help with the part number, but I do have a new genuine Nissan NA Auto gearbox sump gasket if you are interested?

Thanks for the replies all. Think I've decided that I'm going to clean the throttle bodies and break out the multi-meter tomorrow. I'll all put the ATF fluid on my to-do-list while I'm at it. As for my 'style' of braking - I wouldn't say that I'm particularly hash, especially while i reacquaint myself with Zed brakes :pinch: I had wondered if braking has anything to do with it, and had made a point of braking early (really early) to see if that would prevent the revs from plummeting. It didn't seem to make any difference and i still found myself trying to blip the throttle to keep the car alive, while praying the car behind me doesn't go up the back of me...

So i somehow managed to hit enter when trying to edit the title of this thread. Can an admin please change the title of this thread to 'Idle Issue - Revs drop and engine cuts out when braking' Alternatively I'm happy to change it myself if someone can explain how...

Right guys and girls, I need some help diagnosing an ‘unusual’ fault with my Zed. The issue is that when breaking (e.g. coming to a stop at traffic lights) the revs drop to the point where the car cuts out. This is also noticeable when shifting from neutral to reverse (automatic) as shown in the attached video. [video=youtube_share;Q5uJ3az3pLc] The rest of the time it seems to run fine although I’ve noticed that if I’m coasting along and lightly touch the throttle, the revs drop down (below 500rpm) before climbing as I press on the accelerator. So far I’ve have a vacuum leak test and there’s no air leaks. Also had the codes checked which returned a code with CAS, although I’ve been told these rarely break. The IACV has been tested and I’ve been told has been performing as expected. At this point I’m looking for suggestions on what to check next, as google has suggested everything from the brake booster to the MAF. If anyone had come across this issue before and has some pearls of wisdom I’d be grateful for any input.

Thanks everyone. It's good to be back. Thanks Gary, but I'm 99% sure I have all of the import documents and certificates. :)

Evening All, After spending the last 18 months lurking in the background of this forum, I’m very pleased to announce that I’m back – and this time I have turbos :biggrin: Last weekend I hopped on a train to Portsmouth and met Dave, who had decided to part with his Black 1992 SWB TT Slicktop. After a couple of hours in Portsmouth, I was driving home to Bristol (via Dorset) with a very big grin on my face. The ‘grin’ vanished a couple of times as I familiarised myself with the Z32 brakes, but all in all I’m extremely happy. A new car has been on the cards for a couple of months, and I had decided that I would only get another Zed if the right one come along. I’m hoping that this experience will be somewhat better than when I had the Silver NA Auto previously… Anyway, first question. If I re-subscribe can I get a new card? I don’t like the way mine says Silver NA LWB on it! :whistling: James

If it's an NA box then I have pan gaskets available if you're thinking of a fluid change. Feel free to PM me if you're interested. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

After 10 months of owning my Zed, I’ve come to the decision that it needs to go to a new home. I brought the car to use as my daily driver and had been doing so until last month. I’ve had a couple of issues and had taken for granted how much I rely on a car to get around. As a result, I’ve decided to get something more reliable and practical for the day to day. The car itself is a silver 1989 NA Auto LWB Import. I purchased the car from a former club member in April 2016. He had purchased the car from Lee at LA Auto Repairs, but needed to let the car go in order to carry out home improvements. Before that, I believe it was owned by at least one other club member called Ian. I’ve listed some of the key features and work carried out below: Engine & Transmission - Apexi Power Intake Air Filter - Red vacuum lines - Silicone radiator hoses (SFS Performance/Red) - Air conditioning system deleted. - EGR system delete - Throttle body coolant line bypass - Powerflow stainless steel exhaust system – very loud! - One-piece prop shaft Below work carried out in June 2016 - New valve cover gaskets (inlet & exhaust) and half-moon seals - Silicon PCV hoses (Z1 Motorsport) - Silicone IACV hoses (Z1 Motorsport) - Silicone brake vacuum hoses (SFS Performance) - New upper plenum gasket and IACV gasket - New PCV Valves - Cleaned inside plenum and inlet manifold. - Cleaned all injector and coil pack connections. - New NKG Iridium spark plugs - New balance tube O-rings Interior - White LED backlit dials (reading in KMH), pods and gear surround - Carbon Fibre effect dial shroud and gear surround - Optional Navan gear shift - ‘300ZX’ stitched leather seats – previously retrimmed at some point. - Push button start - OMP Pedals - Aftermarket Coaxial door speakers (unknown brand) Exterior, Wheels & Brakes - Optional Navan rear spoiler - Z1 Motorsport Aluminium door lock actuator (July 2016) - Standard 16-inch OEM wheels (Japanese) - Two Uniroyal Rain Sport 3 and two Toyo Proxes T1R tyres (July 2016) - 20 new wheel nuts from Driftworks (July 2016) - New rear brake pads (Mintex) – still bedding in (November 2016) - Front and rear wiper blades - Bosch (November 2016) - Private plate – valued at £250 by online number plate seller - Wheel alignment checked (June 16) Security - Thatcham Category 1 Alarm system installed with contact immobiliser (no certificate) - Remote central locking The mileage of the car is unknown, as the MOT history indicates that the speedometer has been changed as some point in the past. There is no history/paperwork besides what I have accumulated since I purchased the car. Despite this, there is a sticker indicating that the cambelt has been changed in recent years (I'll double check the exact date), which Lee had confirmed to me not long after I purchased the car. There are also signs that the sills have been previously welded, but again no paperwork for this. Around a month after I purchased the car I was involved in an accident (low speed at a junction) and the car was written off my insurance company (Category C). I retained the car, which was repaired by Jimmer at Powerzed. The car hasn’t been resprayed, but has been fitted with silver panels. As the car currently sits, there are a few issues that would need to be addressed, if planning to keep it on the road: - There is a small oil leak coming from around the back of the engine. I’ve been keeping an eye on the oil level, but haven’t had the opportunity to get under the car and clean it so I could see exactly where it is coming from. - Both targa seals are leaking – the passenger side more so than the drivers. - Very occasionally the starter motor doesn’t engage properly. It has only happened 2 or 3 times but thought it was mentioning. - Some of the wheel studs could do with being replaced. All wheel nuts have been tightened to the required torque – which is why I haven’t done this yet. I have 5 front and 5 rear Genuine Nissan studs that I will include with the sale. - There are some signs of rust around the car that would need to be addressed. The worst affected areas are the rear arches (some blistering) and the battery tray. - Front pads are near their limit. I will include the replacements I’ve already purchased with the sale. - Handbrake is a bit high and could do with being adjusted. - Sometimes a little rough when starting, however this is normally resolves itself within seconds. - The rear bumper has been damaged where my Dad reversed into it. The bumper did spring back on its own, however it has damaged the paintwork on the corner of the bumper and left a mark. The car has a valid MOT until 6 June 2017 with no advisories. It is currently SORN and being stored at my brother’s house in Bristol. I will be sad to see the zed go, but at the moment I don’t have the time or space to justify keeping it as a weekend project/toy. Thanks for looking, any questions please ask. Pictures to follow over the next few days - weather permitting!

Perhaps, that was poorly worded on my part. By additives I simply meant flush treatments you 'add' to the coolant, before draining and replacing with the appropriate coolant/antifreeze. Good to know that someone has been using one without cause for concern. Thought I would check in case they were not suitable for older cars such as the Zed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As mentioned in the what I did today thread, I have a coolant leak coming from my heater matrix. While this is being replaced I thought it would be a good idea to flush the coolant system. Has anyone used a radiator/coolant flush additive, such as Wynn’s for example, on their Zed? More importantly, does anyone know if such additives/flush treatments are likely to cause any harm or have an adverse effect on my cooling system. Thanks

Going to read as many write-up as possible before i get on with it. Can't imagine it's going to be very fun. Tips/suggestions are welcome. :biggrin:

What... :huh: I looked on eBay earlier and couldn't find one in the UK. Don't know what I was searching! I found an old thread from 2008 which confirmed it was the P10 matrix that i need. Also found a link to a heater bypass which i was considering doing until i could find the right matrix. Thanks for everyone's comments. Really helpful stuff! :thumbup1:

That's interesting... always wonder how people find out things like that?

Just put my hand as far up the back of the dash as I could reach. I’m now certain it’s the heater core/matrix. Anyone know where I can buy one of these in the UK? Will Nissan be able to supply one?

The AA man came out and checked the coolant. Going by how much he put into the radiator I’m guessing it was empty. Suspect it is a small leak at this stage as there were no obvious signs of water coming out and the temperature gauge didn’t go above where it normally sits on the drive home. Going to keep an eye on it and see how much I loose over the next couple of days before investigating further. In addition to this I’m almost at the end of my tether with my leaking roof… Although I’ve just thought… perhaps my roof isn’t getting worse and it is in fact my heater matrix that causing the damp carpets and loss of coolant???