Retro620ti

Heres a few pics oh of the cars

damn beat by legrath

The 300zx is in clarksons top 100 book so i think he rates it. Cant remember what he says but its something along the lines of it being built for yanks with not the best handling but he shed a tear when the car wasnt made any more.

I recently did a oil change and put mobil1 in which seems to have caused a leak from the rear crank seal due to it being "thinner" , I removed a bit of oil and placed some wynns super charge for oil in to thicken it up slightly which seems to have alleviated the rear crank seal leak. Am I right in thinking that I still get the enhanced benefits of synthetic oil but with it being slightly thicker? ( i just spend a short while longer in the morning before i boot it )

if its the push down rod thing directly in front of the shifter rod then it is indeed the move shifter whilst engine aint running switch

Im not sure its ready yet as the prices are all fecked , there are some nice new items on it tho.....i can feel the pre launch tension building now....... lol I know something that you dont know I know something that you dont know I know something that you dont know I know something that you dont know I know something that you dont know

I was told to take a look at z centres new webby and saw these on there Bingo

Ok fitted the Autobox oil cooler from the Z Centre today and it was a bit more work than I anticipated, the bracket that is supplied with it aint great and placed the engine oil cooler touching the metal to rubber join on the oil feed so i didnt like that, I decided to fit the larger engine oil cooler in front of the gearbox cooler which is opposite to the way the instructions said to fit as there was no chaffing with this fitment , will this be a problem? On one of my oil feed pipes for the engine has a metal restrictor in it, is this supposed to be there? Does it matter which pipe from the gearbox gets fitted to what end on the cooler itself ( feed and return ) And checking for leaks after fitting and a good drive made me realise how hot the gearbox oil must have been getting when I felt the gearbox cooler and it was toasty :mad: Thanks people

This is the first car I have wanted to add body styling too. I prefer the sleeper look and that is totally impossible with these cars so what the hell. I personally have always been more interested in mechanical ability than bling ,thats why I have always previously modded the engine side and peripherals...have made a few total *****x ups but thats how we learn....whos to say in ten years he may be driving a Z a bit like the Beast or Mac's all because he got the bug with a crappy astra.

Fitted the delimiter and mph convertor today so had to go give it a test drive. Halfway down my private road at 120mph it starts to judder and shudder. Slow down from that speed quickly makes the warped brakes shake like hell but as i get slower the shudder is very noticable. stop and the engine sounds awfull, think to myself ok are we in limp home mode so drive off and the boost goes above limp home limits but it sounds and feels awfull. So get it home and pop the bonnet to see if anything is obvious and i cant see a thing easy wrong, just on a off chance i start pulling the coil connectors and refitting, yep you guessed it , thank god thats all it was, they are all pretty much shot so will try to tighten the connections today and get new ones soon as....... Today it was a easy fix , tomorrow I hope I am as lucky.

Thanks Guys If I fit a decat system as greg says does it also remove the restrictors as described by hellraiser. Many Thanks

I need something clearing up on the topic of cats and exhaust restrictions. I have a J spec 91 TT Z so does it have precats on it or not? If not I have heard that it may have restrictors instead to meet the 280HP level for Jap. Finally where the hell are the precats if it has them or restrictors and is it easy to get rid of the buggers? Thank you PS fitting the delimiter this weekend and gearbox oil cooler.................gonna go chew some road as soon as done hehe

There is such a look about the front of the Z that everytime I walk past my car I turn around to admire it.....god Im a sad tosser but it does look good

Dont you drive a red Z around the enfield area? Nope aint seen ya

From what I can gather they are uber reliable. Also heard a rumour that if you can get a Parcel labled warranty replacement you dont get taxed on it but dont know the validity of that .

2 duff relays? Are you totally sure the second relay was working ok?

SothWestZX....thats not south west dag nammit .....im bloody southwest youre more southsouthwest....I dont know :tongue: :rolleyes:

nicked ( err borrowed ) this from the tt net website ( ythanks to everyone involved in that venerable venture ) You will notice JW says to change the filter As for the AIV (air injection valves) 'gurgling', they are in the front fender wells behind the plastic shielding at the rear of the front tires. Very few 90-92 ZXs have escaped a failure of these. Symptoms include the 'gurgling' sound at idle that stops just off idle and returns on decel back to idle. Also the car will fail the idle portion of most smog inspections, since the ECU adds 7% more fuel when they operate so the extra air they pump to the catalytic converter has some fuel to burn to keep the cat up to temp. If the AIVs are not sucking air into the exhaust the fuel just passes through making things worse then ever. The fix is to try to clean and align the reeds in the AIVs, replace reeds, or replace the AIVs as an assembly. THE Jim Wolf of JWT (from his only known forum post!) This information was contributed to the IZCC mailing list from Eric Rahkola: Here's the steps to follow to fix the gurgling sounds from inside the front fenders. The Air Induction Valve (AIV) and its air cleaner are located behind the rear plastic fender linings in each fender. The air cleaner housing can retain condensation which is the cause of the sounds. In addition to replacing the air cleaner element, you will most likely need to replace the AIV valve assembly. It's very easy to do and takes less then an hour per side. Prices run about $100 for the valve from Courtesy Nissan. [ Note: Read Jim Klubens' section below on rebuilding the valves instead of replacing them, Ed. ] The AIV function, as described in the manual, is to send secondary air to the exhaust manifold using a vacuum created by exhaust pulsation in the exhaust manifold. When the exhaust pressure is below atmospheric pressure, secondary air is sent to the exhaust manifold. When the exhaust pressure is above atmospheric pressure, the reed valves prevent secondary air form being sent back to the sub-air cleaner. I've heard that de-acceleration is supposed to keep the assembly clear of water.

Looks like the aiv filters to me mate

Condensation..... Used that astonish for my exhaust couldnt bring myself to clean the inside bit tho

just found this one ...give it a try Repeat 3 this sequence 3 times:- L1, R2, L2, R1, X, O, square, triangle, L3, R3.

last weekend got 370 miles at a steady 70 mph on the motorway

could be heater matrix leaking

I have sent the misses to the other room to watch the damn old fogey marple shite....Top Gear 4TW

Without being too up on these cars I would think that for a more agressive chip you would need to upgrade the internals and fuel system with a pump upgrade and injector upgrade and in all honesty the t25's are pretty crap above 14psi