Old Zed

If one is bright and the other dim it would point to a bad earth on that headlamp. I would attach an additional earth directly to the bulb using croc clips and wire just to see if it corrects the problem.

All you need is a bit of screen washer tubing attached to the vacuum hose, the suction should make the part stick to the end of the pipe.

Over a short distance and driven steady it should not cause any harm. I would also check your intercooler on that side as they do not like any sort of rough handling, i.e., a crash. They tend to split the casing or araound the pipe connections.

As you are a newbie, I will tell that JeffTT is the owner of Zedworld in Tamworth and along with his son JamieTT, are two of the most experienced Zed mechanics in the UK having run the business for over 10 years (I think thats about right), it would pay you to visit their website http://www.zedworld.co.uk to have a look round, or even better still if you live in the area, pop in, they are always very welcoming.

I always put my drivers window down about 150mm to be safe as mine does lock me out occassionally. I now have a basic key which I had cut locally which opens the door but does not start the car, obvioulsy a poor duplicate.

Could be a boost leak or poor electrical connection to your TPS or IAV valve. Might just be a vacuum pipe off or perished.

ebc ?? what is that when it's translated, or do you mean ECU.?

His car was for sale, so may not be a Zed owner anymore.

It is still a Skyline and there are loads on the road and from the looks most people would not know a 1200 bhp one from a 300 bhp model. No one in their right mind would surely pay thay sort of money for it, especially in todays car market. You are also in Ferarri, Aston and Lamborgini territory pricewise, obviously not performance wise, but I know which would get noticed more, and it ain't the Jap.

Could it be the missus.:rofl:

Welcome back Alan, it's good to see you back onboard fully.

He has got to get some serious job credentials first Lisa, a couple of degree's will do or he will end up a janitor at some run down hotel. What is he studying at college, do you know.

I don't think so Joel, it is purely the ignition system I think and the various sensors that are related to it.

I think the wires in the main bit of the loom stay OK but where they go into connectors and then get exposed, that is where with all that heat they deteriate, go brittle and fail. Also as Si has said, the actual connectors go like biscuits and shatter. My injector connectors are now particullarly bad as they have been taken apart so many times. But my problems have been the cack handed work of some Jap engine tuner that has thought that a roll of insulating tape is just the job for splicing in several new looms which ran an additional ECU, a AVC-D and an SAFC. They run around the engine bay but all culminate back at the ECU in the passenger footwell. I have had a waterleak on that side since owning the car and only recently found the cause.(thanks to Jimmer). That same crappy Jappy had pushed the AC drain pipe and grommet out of the bulkhead and back inside the car, and used the hole for two of the looms.there was no grommet around the looms so they just rested on the raw hole and of course the water / condensation drain from the AC unit has been draining into the footwell, hence the very wet carpet. That has now been rectified by the removal of about 10 metres of loom, and there is still more to come out but it is spliced directly into the ECU connector, which I did not want to mess with, especially as I had ordered this new engine loom. I can now rip the whole f#####g lot out, fit the new loom and know that it is all back to standard with no problems,......... hopefully.

We know Murty, don't rub it in, especially as the weather is shite here at the mo'. What can you bring us back then.......say, half a dozen big brake kits, couple of sets of Wiseco pistons, three pair of GT625 turbos, a couple of Stanless exhaust systems, oh and six 99'spec rear spoilers. you took a big suitcase now didn't you.:)

Apparently you can no longer get them in this country so its only the States that really we can use. It a shame the pound / dollar has gone rats on us now. I wonder how much they would cost from Japan.? Anyone know.

You told me it would only take an hour to fit, I'll make the tea.:dance:

$327 plus $78 shipping, also got skinned £44 for import tax.

Its not a bad job to fit Dave with the engine in, the worse bit is getting the ECU connector through the firewall into the passenger footwell. He has done one before so is now an expert.:)

Stay up late Christmas eve Al and try to slip it on Santa. He would get round quicker.:)

What a lovely sight, a nice new engine bay loom......gulp. Thank God Jimmer has fitted one before. Hopefully this will help to alleviate some of my problems that I am currently experiencing due to so much kit being spliced into my current engine bay loom. There is so much that the floor board over the ECU will not screw down, it is a right mess and most of the kit has now been disconnect from any power source. Back to square one I hope.

Blimey Daryl, I thought you had emigrated, long time no see / hear. How are them turbos...................holding out I hope.

Zedworld 01827 311190 or visit their website, very informative.

Checking for boost leaks at home is a problem unless you have a really good compressor. You will need a boost leak detector pressuriser which is a cup with a tyre valve in that fits in place of your MAF. You then need to pressurise it to about 10 psi and then listen / feel for leaks around your system. It is not an easy job.

Contact Danny at DTA, he is in the Traders section.